[RON310]

So I broke my stock front swaybar links again and I'm looking to get some disconnects for the front and rear...
I have an OME 2" lift.
Any suggestions on what and where to buy?

[Scotch740]

Originally Posted by RON310

So I broke my stock front swaybar dissconnects again and I'm looking to get some disconnects for the front and rear...
I have an OME 2" lift.
Any suggestions on what and where to buy?

JKS is pretty popular on here. As well as Rubicon express.

Don't bother disconnecting the rear. I don't think you gain that much and it makes it really unstable. Do they even make quick discos for the rear?

[Jerry Bransford]

JKS works well for the front. However, don't disconnect the rear as the TJ's coil spring suspension doesn't do well on or offroad with its rear antiswaybar disconnected. Disco'ing the rear can actually make it a tad more likely to flop or roll on really steep or offcamber terrain.

[aszalan]

try northridge 4x4 for buying the JKS quicker discos

http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=JKS-QUICKERDISCO2

[92blazn]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

JKS works well for the front. However, don't disconnect the rear as the TJ's coil spring suspension doesn't do well on or offroad with its rear antiswaybar disconnected. Disco'ing the rear can actually make it a tad more likely to flop or roll on really steep or offcamber terrain.

Never rolled mine, But I have rear sway bar sliders. I love them
Gave me 4-5" off play in the rear and made it more stable on down hill with off camber

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by 92blazn

I have rear sway bar sliders. I love them
Gave me 4-5" off play in the rear and made it more stable on down hill with off camber

They do give a bit more articulation but it's been proven many times that their slight amount added flex is useless flex because of a lack of remaining downforce. The antiswaybar actually helps to force the down-side tire into firmer contact with the terrain which increases traction. No downforce after disco'ing means the tire has reduced traction.

THIS is why you don't see mainstream suspension manufacturers making rear antiswaybar disconnects, because disco'ing the rear antiswaybar is a mistake and shouldn't be done. It's even hard to find Sliders any more because when disco'd, they actually degrade the TJ's suspension performance.

And part of the above is just one reason why John Currie WON the US national rock crawling championships with fully connected Antirock front and rear antiswaybars.

[kd4yor]

Jerry,
I have to disagree on the factory rear bar. It's coat hanger thin with about a 12" lever arm. I'll bet Curries bars were thicker. I've never run a rear sway bar on my TJ, and I'd like a larger then stock one for the front on the street.


Pat

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by kd4yor

Jerry,
I have to disagree on the factory rear bar. It's coat hanger thin with about a 12" lever arm. I'll bet Curries bars were thicker. I've never run a rear sway bar on my TJ, and I'd like a larger then stock one for the front on the street.


Pat

Pat, your coathangers must be some serious pieces because my rear antiswaybar is nothing like any coathanger I've ever seen.

And you need to actually look at Currie's rear antiswaybar, it's purposely a smaller diameter than the front is and about the same diameter to the factory's OE rear antiswaybar. And for the same reason the TJ's OE rear antiswaybar is that diameter, it's an optimal diameter for that location. If you ran the uber-tough rock crawling trails like are out in Johnson Valley Calif., you'd soon see why everyone with a TJ runs rear antiswaybars... and most run Currie Antirocks or Swaylocks up front.

Besides, you can't have your cake and eat it too. You complain how the rear antiswaybar is too thin "like a coat hanger", then you choose to run without it entirely. If you feel the rear antiswaybar is too thin to do anything, then why did you bother to remove it?

Don't forget... if disco'ing the rear antiswaybar actually helped, then we'd be seeing rear antiswaybar kits like we do for the front. But we don't because they don't help.

[Skeezer]

I have Teraflex and like them alot. The JKS "Quicker Disconnects" are nice too. I wouldn't worry about the rear swaybar, leave it as is.

[RON310]

Thanks for the replies.

My ome 2" lift gave me more like 3 inches but it'll probably settle after some miles.

Should I go with the 0-2" set?

Does everyone with the actually drill holes it the frame for the part that holds the links once you disconnect?



Also, what do you guys replace the rear swaybar links with when they break?
Should I just get another set of stock links for the rear?

[kd4yor]

I need to preface this with; I've never wheeled west of the Mississippi River. I regularly wheel Tellico.

On sway bars, First they control body lateral roll in relationship to the horizontal plane of the axle.
Sway bars are a torsional spring.

Now, when the left rear goes up on a rock. The mechanical direct link connection also goes up. This in turn pushes up on the sway bar lever arm. This force is transmitted or lost depending on the diameter of the bar. greater diameter = greater resistance to twist. Sway bars are mounted in bushings to the chassis to allow them to twist. Ideally these bushings do not hinder motion. Because that is lost energy. Back to the story, We were up on the left rear. This caused the left link to go up and the left end to twist up. remember the bar is designed to go back to flat. So if the left goes up so shall the right. It's not going to go opposite. There for I conclude that the removal of the rear bar A) increases body roll on the street, B) increases flex, C) does not aid in increasing down force on the right rear.
I believe Currie won due to keeping the truck flat and stable.
My ideal set up for a TJ with 4" lift and 35's would be to have no rear bar and a front bar about 25% stiffer than stock. I can get into a whole thing about roll centers, turn in, corner weight, and weight transfer. But wont.
Here are some good resources,
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/product.htm?code=H690
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question432.htm

[kd4yor]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

Don't forget... if disco'ing the rear antiswaybar actually helped, then we'd be seeing rear antiswaybar kits like we do for the front. But we don't because they don't help.

that's a cost benefit equation, and I'm not an accountant. I can only guess there is some sort of relationship to cost and difficulty to use.

[nicolas-eric]

for the front i have: jks quicker discos

for the rear i have: jks adjustable end links

i bought them for the rear because the stock sway bar came that much down while flexing that it had contact to the handbrake lines.



btw. your stock TJ had disconnects? i never heared that before.

[iismet]

Originally Posted by kd4yor

I We were up on the left rear. This caused the left link to go up and the left end to twist up. remember the bar is designed to go back to flat. So if the left goes up so shall the right. It's not going to go opposite.

Two scenarios come to mind.

1) Right rear tire is firmly planted. Bar will twist as designed but cannot move up on the right side because bar is anchored by link on the right side. Bar is trying to resist left side moving up.

2) Right rear tire is off of ground. Right side has an opposite component due to unsprung weight on that side. Bar will twist opposite of left side as designed. Bar is still trying to resist left side bump.

You present it as if the right side is disconnected or moving with the same bump as the left.

Is this your intent?

[kd4yor]

Originally Posted by iismet

Two scenarios come to mind.

1) Right rear tire is firmly planted. Bar will twist as designed but cannot move up on the right side because bar is anchored by link on the right side. Bar is trying to resist left side moving up.

2) Right rear tire is off of ground. Right side has an opposite component due to unsprung weight on that side. Bar will twist opposite of left side as designed. Bar is still trying to resist left side bump.

You present it as if the right side is disconnected or moving with the same bump as the left.

Is this your intent?

1) I agree, but with the small size of the stock rear bar the unsprung weight will over power the bar.

2) I see the reverse of the above happening.