[GCJoe]

Originally Posted by Shawn_c

nope.......

That Bites! Does anyone know if one is in the works?

Also, How closes does a Truetrac + 27 spline Chromo axles get me to a Super35 with a locker as far as strength? I mostly play in the mud. This is my DD and I only go wheelin about once a month & even then it's nothing too serious.

[McLovin]

Originally Posted by GCJoe

That Bites! Does anyone know if one is in the works?

Also, How closes does a Truetrac + 27 spline Chromo axles get me to a Super35 with a locker as far as strength? I mostly play in the mud. This is my DD and I only go wheelin about once a month & even then it's nothing too serious.

I dont think you'd have much to worry about.

[pete1182]

Any one else thinking about getting a true tracs.anyone have any more feed back on the product.thanks

[iismet]

Originally Posted by roadking

I'm running the tru-trac up front and an Ected electronic locker in the rear. Driving on icy roads, I don't turn on the rear locker and take advantage of the tru-tracs performance.

LOL - I went exactly the opposite. I put the TT in the back and the ECTED in the front. I wanted an LSD in the rear for Northwest driving but did not like the idea of a clutch type LSD because of wear. Liked the idea of an LSD in front but also liked the idea of being able to lock up the clutch plates (4 cyl - so far works great). Am hoping since the ECTED sees little use (compared to rear) I'll get decent mileage out of it. The rear TT is absolutley invisible. Disconnected, the two together are a blast.

[breckboarder55]

I had planned on saving and runnings some arbs front and rear in my stock d35 and d30...

Im only going to run 33s with my 4 cyl with a 3.5in re lift and disconnects (well thats my current plan)

The car is my DD and I dont go crazy crawling wise, but I will do a little, and I will do a lot of deep mud and deep water.

The car will see some long trips and maybe a trip to Colorado for ski season once a year.

Should I go ARB or true tracs?

[bigj1974]

you have to take into account how much that ARB costs versus how much you're going to really use/ need it. If you'll be up in slippery conditions at all, I'd go truetrac all the way and call it good.

[Kiwi_TJ]

With the wheeling that I do, which is mostly mud and shingle, both wheels are usually on the ground, so a True-Trac would suit me nicely.

My axles are stock at the moment, the factory LSD in the back and open at the front. If I am looking to increase my traction, it would seem to be a good idea to put a True-trac into the front diff then I would have LSD's both ends. Is this a good idea, or are there reasons that I would not want to do this?

Bye for now

[pete1182]

Do i have to regear or change splines in my stock d35 to put a true tracs in.Or can i get away with just putting it in out of the box.

[bigj1974]

regear only if you want to. better to do it if the rearend is already apart.

I don't think you CAN go big spline if you do a truetrac.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by bigj1974

I don't think you CAN go big spline if you do a truetrac.

That is correct, the Truetrac is only available with standard spline counts.

[lupinsea]

The lack of a 30+ spline D35 Truetrac was a frustration of mine when ordering. I would have loved to see Detroit offer that but they didn't. Still, the other benefits of the LSD really won me over.

However, there are now on the market HD 27 spline (stock spline count) axleshafts made from either 1541H or a chromoly which represent a 20-25% strength increase over the stock OEM shafts.

In comparison, a Super35 kit boosts strength to ~30%+.

So, the HD27 spline aftermarket shafts are somewhere between better than stock, but not as good as an S35 or D44 setup.

Considering the Truetrac application is easier on the drivetrain than a locker I figure this is ok for most of us. It's been fine for me for 2+ years (see earlier in this thread (I think)).

The HD 27 spline shafts are also reasonably priced, the chromoly shafts are the stronger of the two at $300 / pair and the 1541H (Yukon) can be had for around $200 / pair (this is what I run, chromos weren't available at the time of my install 2 years ago).

DC4WD.COm had some awesome prices a few years ago. IIRC, I got (2) Truetrac LSDs, two Spider master install R&P kits, bearings for both axles, and shipping to my door for $900. Assuming a $150/axle for bearings and master install kits this comes to about $300- for the Truetracs.

His prices may have gone up in recent years as everything else has, though.




So, with a Truetrac and the HD 27 spline shafts you get

- much improved traction
- good snow/slippery road control
- excellent on-road handling
- idiot simple operation
- good reliability
- easy maintenance
- 20% or so boost in strength.

Not bad.

[McLovin]

Originally Posted by lupinsea

The lack of a 30+ spline D35 Truetrac was a frustration of mine when ordering. I would have loved to see Detroit offer that but they didn't. Still, the other benefits of the LSD really won me over.

However, there are now on the market HD 27 spline (stock spline count) axleshafts made from either 1541H or a chromoly which represent a 20-25% strength increase over the stock OEM shafts.

In comparison, a Super35 kit boosts strength to ~30%+.

So, the HD27 spline aftermarket shafts are somewhere between better than stock, but not as good as an S35 or D44 setup.

Considering the Truetrac application is easier on the drivetrain than a locker I figure this is ok for most of us. It's been fine for me for 2+ years (see earlier in this thread (I think)).

The HD 27 spline shafts are also reasonably priced, the chromoly shafts are the stronger of the two at $300 / pair and the 1541H (Yukon) can be had for around $200 / pair (this is what I run, chromos weren't available at the time of my install 2 years ago).

DC4WD.COm had some awesome prices a few years ago. IIRC, I got (2) Truetrac LSDs, two Spider master install R&P kits, bearings for both axles, and shipping to my door for $900. Assuming a $150/axle for bearings and master install kits this comes to about $300- for the Truetracs.

His prices may have gone up in recent years as everything else has, though.




So, with a Truetrac and the HD 27 spline shafts you get

- much improved traction
- good snow/slippery road control
- excellent on-road handling
- idiot simple operation
- good reliability
- easy maintenance
- 20% or so boost in strength.

Not bad.

I agree 100%. I like the idea of being able to build on what I got. A person cab start out buying the shafts, and adding true tracs when or if they regear, then down the road add a truss. Personally I think that would prove to be a reliable set up for most people on 33 or even 35's depending on the terrain they wheel. I know I am in the minority, but other then spider gears the dana 35 seems to hold up ok in straight sand and mud.

I'm like you in that where I wheel I rarely ever lift a tire off the ground in my TJ. When disco'd I normally have all 4 on the ground.

[GCJoe]

I have to say that this has been a really great thread. It has totally changed my mind about wanting lockers. I can't afford/justify buying Arb or OX selectables for my DD, so the Truetrac is a great option for the type of terrain I like to wheel on. I think I'll be purchasing a D35 Truetrac and some new chromoly axles after Christmas. Now I need to find someone that can install them!

[lupinsea]

Originally Posted by Shawn_c

I agree 100%. I like the idea of being able to build on what I got. A person cab start out buying the shafts, and adding true tracs when or if they regear, then down the road add a truss. Personally I think that would prove to be a reliable set up for most people on 33 or even 35's depending on the terrain they wheel. I know I am in the minority, but other then spider gears the dana 35 seems to hold up ok in straight sand and mud.

I'm like you in that where I wheel I rarely ever lift a tire off the ground in my TJ. When disco'd I normally have all 4 on the ground.

The one nice thing about the Truetracs using the 27 spline shafts is that upgrading later is pretty easy if money is tight now. Since the gears/TT's are already set up, swapping new axles is a simple matter of draining the diff, taking wheels/brake off, popping out the cross pin in the TT to remove the c-clips and sliding the stock axles out. Reverse installlation with new HD axleshafts. This can be done by any home DIY-er.

Glad people are finding this thread useful but I'd also like to make sure people are clear on things:


Strength of Axle Assembly
While the Truetracs and the HD 27 spline shafts bump up strength, it's still not to the same level as a Super35 or D44. As such I'd probably limit tire size to 33". We are, after all, still talking about our D35's which aren't known for their great stregth and 27 spline shafts are still 27 spline shafts. So, it'd be my recommendation to nix the 35" tire idea.

If someone REALLY wanted 35" meats, or to hammer on their rig offroad, best to go for the Super 35, D44, 8.8 or other serious upgrade. But with some care the D35 and a Truetrac should hold up reasonably well to 33's and a driver respectful of their Jeep. Below is a strength comparison.

Weakest

1. Stock D35 axle (with or without Trac-loc
2. D35 axle with stock shafts + Truetrac LSDs
3.0. D35 w/ HD 27 spline shafts (1541H) + Truetrac LSDs
3.5. D35 w/ HD 27 spline shafts (chromo) + Truetrac LSDs
4. Super35s, D44, 8.8s

Strongest




Strength of Diff Carrier
In a line up of least to strongest (generally speaking) of differential carriers (the part the ring gear bolts to) they fall like this:

Least Strong

1. Stock Open Diff
2. Stock Trac-Loc LSD
3. Lunchbox Locker
4. Truetrac/Detroit/ARB/Other Full-case replacement differentials
5. Spools

Strongest




Traction
As Jerry (and others) mention in these threads the Truetracs are not lockers. they're great, offer lots of tractioin, are certainly better than traditional LSDs, but they aren't lockers. This is fine by me as I appreciate the other benefits the TT's provide and am willing to bust out the winch on rare occasion.

In a Least-to-Most traction line up the field looks like this:

Least Traction

1. Open differential
2. Trac-Loc (or other clutch based LSD)
3. TrueTrac LSD (helical gear based)
4. Locker / Spool

Most Traction


Again, rock crawling or other wheel'n where tires are lifting off the ground often is best left to lockers.

[McLovin]

I think it depends on 4 wheeling conidtions as to the tire size limit. On my current rig I have about 15 dune runs, 4 mud runs and more beach trips then I can count on my 35 with 35's with the aussie in the back. And I'm not easy on it either. I have been wheeling similiar set-ups on other wranglers or XJ's and not had a problem. While I keep the weakness in the back of my mind I don't get overly concerned about it.