Death Wobble: Fix First or Upgrade? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sjaehnen View Post
I bought my 04 X jeep back in July and the death wobble started about a week later (no warranty available). I'm not the most handy of guys but am trying to learn everything as I go. I don't get the wobble unless I hit a bump going over 50 MPH. A way I learned to prevent it is when I see a bump in the road I let off the gas and roll over it. I will get a slight wobble but it will go away. Now when I don't see the bump and my foot is on the pedal my jeep goes crazy and wobbles of course and at that point I have to stop completely and get off the road which in cincinnati isn't always the easiest. From what I read above it seems to me that some of you get it all the time when you reach speeds over a certain MPH. Mine is like I said when i hit a bump. Any separate advice than that of what you already gave?
I believe the advice apply to same situation, you need to check everything, and if you don't find anything wonky, I lean towards control arm bushings.

In your case, it sounds like it's not the tires/wheels out of balance/out of round. Maybe rotate them to see if any change, but I doubt you'll see any difference, unless your rear tires are out of balance currently

You need to check your hubs and ball joints, easily done if/when doing said rotation.

Do a dry steering test and look/listen for any slop in the components, look particularly at the track bar, and particularly at the axle side of that...not that that is ALWAYS where the problem is, but it's not uncommon for that to loosen.

If you don't find anything glaringly loose, then it's your Control Arms, jmho.

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post #17 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 09:27 AM
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Sounds like he has a drop pitman arm.
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post #18 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by afusco1222 View Post
Sounds like he has a drop pitman arm.
while it does sound like that, I don't think it's a given, and the fact that it's full blown indicates that regardless, he still has other issues.
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post #19 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 09:57 AM
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Pictures

I believe the owner before had the same problem because he started replacing parts that seem responsible for this problem
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post #20 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:04 AM
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I believe the owner before had the same problem because he started replacing parts that seem responsible for this problem
Interesting....can you see if the upper CAs are new? and it may be very difficult to tell, but the axle side upper joints as well? They are often overlooked and if bad enough can certainly be responsible. They can easily be checked by unbolting the axle side and moving the arm out the way, visually, and/or stick a rod in there and feel.
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post #21 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:10 AM
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Axel Side Upper Joints?

I know for a fact that the Upper CAs are not new but i'm not sure what and where the axel side upper joints are. I'm still learning.
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post #22 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:20 AM
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I know for a fact that the Upper CAs are not new but i'm not sure what and where the axel side upper joints are. I'm still learning.
there is a awesome pic around here somewhere that will greatly help you.

That first pic you posted is a lower control arm. There will be a similar looking structure above it, that will be the upper control arm. The upper is a little different, in that it only has one joint...attached to the frame of the jeep (rearward)...the other end of the arm just has a braket that botlts through the axle side joint (forward)....the axle side joint is attached to the front axle, rather than being a part of the arm itself. It's more of a pain to replace, and if someone says you need new upper control arms, well, the axle joint is not technically included in that conversation...but really should be.

I'll see if I can find the pic.
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post #23 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:21 AM
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post #24 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:23 AM
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ok thanks i'll take a look at it and try to get a picture sound like it will be difficult
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post #25 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:24 AM
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ok thanks i'll take a look at it and try to get a picture sound like it will be difficult
it's actually not too bad, if you are lifted at all...or just jack it up a bit...but if you are inexperienced but looking to do your own work, no better time than the present
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post #26 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:32 AM
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Ok thanks alot I appreciate it....prolly would have costed me $100 just to get that information out of a dealer.
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post #27 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:33 AM
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just to address your thread title and after having seen your pics, and especially if your CAs are to blame, you will DEFINITLEY want to sort that out before lifting. It WILL get worse after you lift and go to 33s.

You mentioned going to 4"....I don't know if that is all suspension, or partially body lift, if the former, you would probably be best off to just go ahead and get some HD adjustable control arms...such as Metalcloak, Savvy, Currie, Clayton or Rockmen. Very minor pros and cons to each of those, but generally speaking you can't go too wrong with any of those.

Don't know how much else you've researched, but 4" of suspension is kind of a magic number, in that you are probably going to need a LOT more stuff $$$ to end up being satisfied with it.

For your reference, if you are just looking to clear 33s, I run them on 2.5" suspension + ~1" body lift.
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post #28 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:38 AM
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Great to KNow

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlackJaw View Post
just to address your thread title and after having seen your pics, and especially if your CAs are to blame, you will DEFINITLEY want to sort that out before lifting. It WILL get worse after you lift and go to 33s.

You mentioned going to 4"....I don't know if that is all suspension, or partially body lift, if the former, you would probably be best off to just go ahead and get some HD adjustable control arms...such as Metalcloak, Savvy, Currie, Clayton or Rockmen. Very minor pros and cons to each of those, but generally speaking you can't go too wrong with any of those.
That is really good information because I was just hoping to lift and with what was being replaced, it would just fix itself. Thanks again
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post #29 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:43 AM
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I just fixed my DW last month and had the same symptoms as you where the DW only occurred after hitting a bump. My 99TJ had 110k or so on her and so I just decided to replace all the steering related joints as I assumed they were due. I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link ends, and track bar, and the DW went away.

I think if you replace just one of these, you may buys some time, but may end up having to go back in there to replace the others as it is likely the DW would return.

The job itself was not that hard.

Good luck!

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Chad
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post #30 of 37 Old 09-06-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ExtremeLED View Post
I just fixed my DW last month and had the same symptoms as you where the DW only occurred after hitting a bump. My 99TJ had 110k or so on her and so I just decided to replace all the steering related joints as I assumed they were due. I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link ends, and track bar, and the DW went away.

I think if you replace just one of these, you may buys some time, but may end up having to go back in there to replace the others as it is likely the DW would return.

The job itself was not that hard.

Good luck!

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Great advice, as i'm a newb i'm going to get an estimate from an offroad guy here in ohio and see what he says and then i'll ask about that. Thank you
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