Currently running a D35 rear end and given my setup (see sig) I've decided to jump on an axle that a club member is unloading. He's got a 05 Rubicon where his Limited Slip just popped due to some other driveline issues. he's getting it replaced via warranty and is then selling that whole axle and moving up to a bigger setup. Here is the axle he is selling me:
Rubicon Dana 44 w 4.10 Gears
Alloy USA Alloy Shafts
Rockcrusher Diff Cover
Rubicon OEM Locker
OEM Locker Pump/LInes
I am going to be dropping this in place my my existing D35 then regearing to 4.88. My questions are as follows:
1) DO I NEED TO SHORTEN MY DRIVESHAFT?
I called up Dave at Northridge and gave him my specs and he had them make a Coast Driveshaft and Advance Adapters SYE setup for me. I have been told that the D44 pinion snout is a couple inches longer than the D35. Is this the case and will it mean I need to get my driveshaft shortened by a couple inches?
2) WHAT OTHER PARTS WILL I NEED?
I'm aware I need a drum brake backing plate to mount my existing drums onto the D44. I was told this part was easy to find and cheap.. anyone have the part number? Is it available online anywhere? Are there any other components I will likely need for the axle swap?
Thanks in advance guys... can't wait to get this D35 out from under my rig so I won't have to be paranoid every time I get her hopping a little in the rocks. :thumbsup:
No, you will not need to shorten the driveshaft as your OME lift has lengthened the distance between the transfer case and rear axle for the driveshaft to fit in.
So far as converting your drums to the Rubicon D44, the drum brake should bolt right up without modification. The backing plate from your old axle should work fine, or if you need a new one, just get a standard backing plate for a drum brake TJ. You're sticking with drums so I would imagine the brake line will not need any length modifications like are needed to convert a drum brake TJ to disk brakes.
Couldn't have said it better. In fact, I have the OME lift with a mml and 1.25" bl. I just swapped in a d44 a few months ago. The Pinion is about 1" longer but it will not cause any issues. The only problem I have noticed is the diff cover on my Ox rubs the gas tank skid occasionally.
As far as the brakes go, I got a new assembly so it had the correct backing plates installed already, but they are easy to get from the dealership and are only a couple bucks. If you can disconnect your brake drums without disconnecting the ebrake cable you will find the swap much easier. Just remove the hard line connection and hang the drum from the frame with a bungie cord. My hard line swapped right over to the new assembly with a little tweaking of some bends so yours should be fine as well. Good luck with the swap.
On a side note, it may be cheaper to get the axle regeared before you bolt it under your rig. Check with the shop you're going to be dealing with first.
Oh, I just re-read your post and it sounds like you may need a new 1310 - 1330 ujoint for the rear driveshaft since the rubicon d44's use those 1330 ujoints. This is also a fairly easy swap, but do it before you try to bolt the driveshaft to the axle.
I have a 5.5" RE lift and when I swapped out the D35 for a D44 I ended up with only about 0.5" left for play on my driveshaft. Had to get it shortened. I took it once to get about an 1" cut of of it and they only took 3/16" off. Not sure what happened, hoping they fix it for nothing this time.
I have a 5.5" RE lift and when I swapped out the D35 for a D44 I ended up with only about 0.5" left for play on my driveshaft. Had to get it shortened. I took it once to get about an 1" cut of of it and they only took 3/16" off. Not sure what happened, hoping they fix it for nothing this time.
See this has me concerned. What is the best way to check for this in advance? I'd like to get the driveshaft fixed before dropping the D44 in. That said I may just need to drop it in and hope for the best.. if it needs shortening then I will do it.
Dave.. I ordered the driveshaft from you about a year ago. I don't know if all your coast CV Shafts ship at the same length or if you have any idea if it will need to be shortened? I'll prob give you a ring on it tomorrow.
THe axle you're shipping is going to MSUBrian from our club. I'm taking his D44 that's getting rebuilt by our club sponsor dealership (Gossett Jeep in Memphis, TN) under warranty right now :2thumbsup: Once it's all set up we'll yank it and drop it under my rig and drop the new axle you set up under his rig.
To the guy commenting on getting the gears set up in advance.. it's not really an option given the way the timing will all play out. Plus I won't have the cash free to get the gear done for a week or three. (will just pull the front driveshaft to be safe).
YOu say the OME lift has moved my axle down but I've added an aftermarket CV setup (Coast driveshaft from Northridge 4x4) that was built for this lift. I'm concerned it might be too short now with the shorter snout. I guess I'll just try to drop it in and then flex it out carefully and see what's up. If it's too long I'll just yank it and get it chopped and drive around in FWD for a day or two
Yeah, I guess just play with it before you get the springs back in so you know. I am still using the stock slip yoke, so there may be more play in it than an aftermarket cv shaft. Good luck with it though, post up some pics of the swap.
From other's I was under the impression that I wouldn’t have to shorten the driveshaft. I didn't look at it too close before I swapped out the axle and it may have been slightly on the short side before the swap. I'm not sure how you know before you actually swap it. Your could take measurements, but there more angles to take into consideration than just figuring out the how much the new pinion sticks out.
Oh, I just re-read your post and it sounds like you may need a new 1310 - 1330 ujoint for the rear driveshaft since the rubicon d44's use those 1330 ujoints. This is also a fairly easy swap, but do it before you try to bolt the driveshaft to the axle.
Swap will be going down this saturday starting at 5am (2 axles to swap and the first jeep owner is in a wedding at 1pm)
So the consensus is that:
1) I won't need new backing plates?
2) I MIGHT need to shorten the D/S
3) What about the UJoint spec'd above.... will I need one of those?
Thanks as always guys.. this forum is invaluable. I'm buying my membership right now (Finally)
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