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dana 60

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dana 60 tj
2K views 21 replies 12 participants last post by  Niceface 
#1 ·
i have the front and rear dana 60 out of a dodge 2500, what should i do with them? put them under my tj? or sell them? or what?
 
#4 ·
its a 1997 tj 4.0L auto stock motor tran and transfer case, dana 30 dana 35. i want to run 35 inch tires, i also want it to be a dd. i have built muscle cars and a custom motorcycle, i have any tool that i would need to build it with. would this be to much of an over kill to put dana 60s under it, to run 35s? sould i just sell them and get a dana 44?
 
#6 ·
I believe Dodge D60s are passenger side drop. If so, that will equal lot's of extra work. Ford D60s are ideal for the TJ. Second, they are a bit overkill for 35 inch tires, but each to their own.
 
#11 ·
It just really depends on what you personally want to do. Even with a drivers side drop D60, you are looking at spending some serious cash to complete the mod. You will need all the brackets to install the coils and control arms. You would need to set up steering and also decide whether to remain full width, or have them cut down. You will need driveshaft work done and probably gearing done as well. As I said, it's not a cheap modification. 35 inch tires are kind of small for 60s. You will have a lot of diff to drag around.

Some dodges did come with drivers side drop, but I am not sure of the years. Pretty easy to check though. Just look at what side the pumpkin is offset to. If they are driver side them the list above is what you are looking at. If they are passenger side, then there are many other things to add to the list.

As far as what they are worth, i really don't know. Pirate 4x4 is a great resource to figure that out. Check out their classifieds and see what people are getting for them.

Finally, if I was in your shoes and was only looking at running 35's, i would be looking for a rear D44 and beefing up the front. You could also do a super 35, or an 8.8 in the rear. As far as plug and play axles, Rubicon D44s are good for 35s, but will cost you between $1500-$2000 for a used pair. And then the front 44 has it's own weaknesses. Feel free to ask me anything. I am finishing my D60 install now and have learned the hard way almost every step of the way.

Joe
 
#13 ·
I say keep um, do all the fab work to them to get them ready for the install. That way, if you ever decide you want/need them, they are all ready to go in. No waiting to get all the fab work done, b/c you'll already have it done.
 
#14 ·
eventually you will want them and 40s but until then i would trade someone for a ford d60 front and build them a little at a time until you're ready to "grow up"

plus you'll be stuck on your diffs constantly with the 60s and 35s
 
#16 ·
They are driver drop, from 1994 up they swapped to the CAD design and went to a driver drop.

Now the fronts are unit bearing design and ball joints. Some peaple have swapped Ford BJ outers onto them, this way you can run a 11 3/8" long 1.5" 35 spline stub and not a unit bearing style shaft.

You would be better off finding a Ford front 60, eather the now getting very hard to find 78/79 or a 85 up king pin. After 91.5 they swapped to a ball joint but still used all the convetual axle shafts that were found in the 85 up axle's.

Rears, well it depneds on what type of 2500 trucks it is. Some had the V-10 optoin so they got the dana 70 HD, but some of them used 32 1.5" shafts. The Cummings got the dana 80, with the 35 spline 1.5" shafts not the 37 spline 1.67" shafts like the Chevy and Ford did. Normall run of the mill 2500's got the 60, it could be a U or at least a HD.

This is info in a nut shell, Search Pirate or around here for more info. Ive posted a ton of usefull info on what works and for what your talking about this combo of axle's are not the best to start with.

Jason.
 
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