Dana 44 v. Built Dana 30 - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
Jeepin72
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Dana 44 v. Built Dana 30

I currently have a built Dana 30 (30 spline cromoly shafts with 4.88's and and an OX locker, OX diff cover, mini skids boxing the LC tabs). I am running 35's. I have plans to go to 37's. I would like lock out hubs and a high steer kit. That's were this Jeep will end.

Is there any benefit to going to a dana 44? Or should I just replace the outer knuckle, high steer, and hubs?

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post #2 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:34 PM
breckboarder55
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Are you asking about a Rubicon 44, JK 44, or Waggy 44?

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post #3 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:35 PM
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Think bigger

From stock to big rock just enjoy what you got
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post #4 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:36 PM Thread Starter
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A Dynatrac or Solid 44. I've heard Mopar teamed up with Dynatrac and is producing an aftermarket 44 stronger than the Rubi 44. I do not want a Rubi 44.

Last edited by Jeepin72; 11-21-2010 at 01:36 PM. Reason: typo
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post #5 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:36 PM
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Fml.....

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post #6 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Like I said in the OP..."this Jeep". I have bigger plans for the next project... I need to finish this one in a capable manner and budget in mind. I need a truck, trailer, etc... The "next" Jeep gets 60"s/9" with 40's - hehe
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post #7 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:44 PM
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Some reading for you. Dana 30 vs 44 New angle............. - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

Like said above think bigger. If I went bigger I'd go to a Ford 9 inch or a shaved 60. Think about the ball joints.
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post #8 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thx for the link
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post #9 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 03:00 PM
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That link should do it. I vote NO for running 37's on any D30 unless you come up with a good way to run big outers.

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post #10 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 03:22 PM
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37's are a horrible horrible addition to the world of TJ's

35's are the largest you should go with a D30/D44 front and D44 rear.

You can go larger, but your eventually going to break something.

So you move up to a larger axle, well they can handle much larger tires, so why stop at 37's after you sunk thousands into stronger axles when you can run 40's

Either stick with 35's or jump up to 60's, or 9's or 8.8s, or mogs and run 40's or more.

2001 TJ 4.6 Auto 4.5" AEV suspension 35's
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post #11 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
I currently have a built Dana 30 (30 spline cromoly shafts with 4.88's and and an OX locker, OX diff cover, mini skids boxing the LC tabs). I am running 35's. I have plans to go to 37's. I would like lock out hubs and a high steer kit. That's were this Jeep will end.

Is there any benefit to going to a dana 44? Or should I just replace the outer knuckle, high steer, and hubs?
Stick with the 35s and your D30, they are a good combo and are very reliable. From what I have gathered through the years, building a jeep to run 37s is tricky at best. It requires almost if not the same amount of coin to run 40s. Makes more sense to build for 40s and then run 37s if you really want them.

I saw you got the Clayton rear 4 link does that utilize a TC skid, or still factory? Reason being if you did a TT it would be like running 37s with your 35s since you obtain a good amount of ground clearance. Obviously this cant be done if the Clayton kit comes with a TC skid.

As for lockouts if you can find a set of NOS Warn hubs that be cool, but I have not heard the best since Randy of RR&P took over. However, if you did go the dynatrac you can utilize there outters which I "hear" are really snazzy.

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post #12 of 22 Old 11-21-2010, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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The Clayton kit does not have a TC skid that the arms connect to. All new brackets are welded to the frame. I still have the OEM skid.

The OEM skid did have to have cuts made into it to allow for the rear frame side brackets to be welded on. Clayton makes a skid to complement these weld on brackets that boasts 1.5" added clearance over the OEM skid (the same as a UCF skid). An AEV TT or TeraFlex skid would bring it up higher, but the brackets for the control arms would hang well below the new skid. Not to mention the skid would have to be cut.

I am not sure if the work involved in the AEV or TeraFlex would be worth it since the brackets are only about 14" apart (just a guess - would need to measure for exact) to be wort it. Would the work involved in the TT be recognized with such a small gap? Are either of those two skids significantly weakened when cut?

So if I increase the belly clearance with a Clayton or UCF skid and gain the breakover clearance, is it worth it to add the lockouts and new outers (ie Reid Racing) to the D30?

Last edited by Jeepin72; 11-21-2010 at 07:39 PM. Reason: Added Info
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post #13 of 22 Old 11-22-2010, 05:10 AM
emev0l
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Are you happy with the performance of your jeep with 35's and 4.88 gears?

That's the max you can go with a D30

As far as the tummy tuck goes if you measure how far from the skids bolts that your control arm mounts are at I can take a look on my AEV skid and see what would need to be modified.

2001 TJ 4.6 Auto 4.5" AEV suspension 35's
2002 TJ 4.0 Manual 3" BDS suspension 33's
1987 Chevy 1 Ton 12" suspension 44's
1970 Cutlass 442 468CID TH400
1999 7.3 Powerstroke
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post #14 of 22 Old 11-16-2013, 04:56 AM
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I have a 2000 TJ running 37's on a stock D30, 4.88 gears, inner C Gussets, stock shafts, and I wheel the HELL outta my jeep with no problem. I have a buddy who runs 40's on a 2014 JK STOCK D30 with no problems....its all in how you drive. Good Luck!!
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post #15 of 22 Old 11-16-2013, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offroad349 View Post
I have a 2000 TJ running 37's on a stock D30, 4.88 gears, inner C Gussets, stock shafts, and I wheel the HELL outta my jeep with no problem. I have a buddy who runs 40's on a 2014 JK STOCK D30 with no problems....its all in how you drive. Good Luck!!
i'm assuming your 4 banger helps keep things alive
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