[xlxlixlii]

so i have the dana 35 rear end and im running 33 12.50s i really wanna jump to 35 12.50s. now could i make that happen by regearing the D35 or am i going to have to jump to the D44, if so anyone know somewhere to get that done as far as buy the D44's as in a better place to look than just typing it in on google. i need some help so please any is good.

[AustinTJer]

You can still run 35's with a D35 if you arent planning on wheelin it very hard... otherwise, I would recommend finding a shop that has the knowledge to covert a Ford 8.8 into an compatible axle for your TJ, its cheaper than finding a D44 and it is assumed to be stronger, thus allowing you to wheel it harder with those 35's

[never monday]

Seems like most people want 35’s for street or trail. I wrote this as a reference guide on what you’ll need to do it right. Yes, you can do it half way, or many other variations to these suggestions.

The preferred method
5-6” of lift.
This can be all suspension or a combination of suspension and body. If your going SL/BL most will say 4” SL and 1” BL. It could be done with a 2” budget boost and a 3” BL(but why).
Short or long arms are a personal choice. Stock arm’s aren’t an option above 3” of lift. You’ll need something with adjustment to recenter the axle.

Slip yoke eliminator and double Cardan drive shaft. Unless you have a Rubicon then just a CV shaft.

Decrease the up travel to keep the tires out of the fenders.
This can be done by lowering the stock bump stops or raising them from the bottom with hockey pucks. Ideally closing the gap on both the top and bottom is more effective.

Wheels,
Due to the most common width of 12.50 on 35” tires. Stock Jeep wheels won’t work well. You’ll want an 8” wide wheel with 4” of back spacing of less.

Axles
A stock Dana 35c won't last very long with the 35's. A Super kit. A Dana 44 replacement or 8.8 replacement.
A stock Dana 30 low pinion can be made to last with chrome molly shafts If your not over the edge hard core. A better option would be a High pinion Dana 30 from Cherokee with chrome molly shafts or the Super30 kit.
Rubicon 44's
Bring a different set of issues than the 30/35. The rear 44 will hold up fine stock. But it's always a good idea to upgrade the shafts to chromemoly.
The front 44 being a hybrid 44/30 presents some other issues. It has 30 spline inner shafts. But the U-joints, outer shafts and unit bearings are all D30. So that makes the outer shaft a 27 spline. At one time Alloy USA was selling a 30 spline unit bearing and outer shaft for the 30 and R44. Hopefully this will return to the market. As always chromemoly shafts will help.
The R44 Front is still a low pinion design and under severe strain can have similar failures to the LP30.
The 4.10 gears will have to go for anyone that doesn't live where it's flat.


Gears
4.88 for for manual transmissions in 4 or 6 cyl TJ's and 4 spd autos
4.56 for 3spd automatics
Some of the Rubicon owners have reported good results with 5.13 gears and 6spd man or 4spd auto.

Steering,
Stock steering components are weak. Upgrade the steering to a heavy duty drag link and tie rod at least. You might find the front tires rubbing the lower control arms or sway bar. This can be fixed by spacing out the steering stop bolt with washers.

Brakes
I’m going to split this further into Automatic Vs Stick
Automatic, Upgrade them to Vanco.
Stick, They can work. But having upgraded brakes only makes sense.
Many people have reported good results from changing rotors and using better pads like EBC yellows.
Adding rear disk helps a little, but not significantly enough to justify the expense.

Tire coverage
Please check with you local state regs. You might need bigger flares and mud flaps.

Spare storage
A 35 is too big to ride on a stock carrier even with an extension. It will cause damage to the tailgate.
Get a frame or bumper mounted carrier. Or some other way to carry a spare.

LCG method

2.5” of lift or less
tube fenders or highline kit
trim the tub
steering as above
brakes as above
wheels and tires as above




This is a common topic so I thought I'd post some facts I've found out about the 3 main options.
Super 35, Rubicon 44 and Ford 8.8
Please correct as necessary.

Super 35
semi float c-clip shafts
**NOW AVAILABLE**
Superior c-clip eliminator kit
This converts the Super35 to a 44jr.
That's right it removes the c-clips and bolts in the shafts. This is the same assembly design as the 44. With a 7.5" ring gear it's 1" small than a 44. Hence the name 44jr.
gear ratio options = 3.55, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88
Carrier break = 3.31 / 3.55
Locker choices
Detroit, OX, ARB, Auburn ECTED
Ring gear diameter = 7.5625"
Ring gear bolts = (8) 3/8 x 24 RH - NOTE: 7/16" used on later model TJs
Low pinion
Pinion shaft diameter = 1.406"
Pinion shaft spline count = 26
Axle shaft diameter = 1.30"
Axle shaft spline count = 30
Axle tube 2.50" x .250 wall
WMS-WMS = approximately 60.5"
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
Cost
kits run from 700-1300
labor $250 - $500
Build time <6 hrs
bolt in upgrade

Rubicon/Sahara/Unlimited 44
(XJ/MJ 44 is similar but leaf sprung)
semi float non c-clip style shafts
Standard rear axle used on all Rubicon model TJs
Gear ratio options, 3.08, 3.31, 3.54, 3.73, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.38, 5.89
I'm not sure all ratios are available for the R44.
Lockers,
Detroit, ARB, OX, Spool, all lunchbox lockers, factory Tru-lok
Ring gear diameter = 8.5"
Ring gear bolts = (10) 7/16" x ??
Low pinion
Pinion shaft diameter = 1.376"
Pinion shaft spline count = 26
Axle shaft diameter = 1.30"
Axle shaft spline count = 30
Axle tube 2.50" x .250 wall
WMS-WMS = approximately 60.5"
5 on 4.5" bolt pattern
standard disk brakes on R44, drums on others
Cost,
used axle run 700-1300
build time, <6hrs
bolt in swap

Ford Explorer 8.8
semi float c-clip style axle, leaf sprung
C-clip eliminators and Super88 kits available
gear ratios available
2.73, 3.08. 3.27, 3.31, 3.55, 3.73, 3.90, 4.10, 4.56, 4.88, 5.13, 5.71, 6.14
No carrier break
Lockers available,
Detroit, Spool, mini-spool, OX, ARB, Auburn ECTED, Eaton E-locker, All lunchbox lockers
O.D. of tubes: 3.250".
Tube thickness: .188, there is rumor of .250
(the larger tube gives 5/8" of lift and 5/8" lower clearance under tubes.)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800".
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter: 1.625
Pinion spline count 30
Axle shaft: 1.31
Axle spline count 31
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35).
I've been told the c-clip eliminator kit increases the track 1"

Cost,
complete axles can be had for $100 with a LSD and disk brakes.
This conversion will require welding and fabrication. Plus many additional parts.
Estimated build cost >$1000-$1200
build time >8 hrs

Ground clearance;
Measured on 35" tires on a concrete shop floor
axle - under tube - under diff
35 - 14 7/8 - 11 1/4
44 - 14 7/8 - 10 7/8
8.8 - 14 1/2 - 10 1/8

There are postings of axle shaft failure torque rating. I won't repost them here because it doesn't represent what were discussing accurately.
Add on;

Toyota Tacoma 2WD, non Pre-Runner 1995-2001
I'm still gathering details.
8" ring gear
Third member design
ARB, Detroit, Toyota E-Locker, Spool
Lot's of gear ratios
5x4.5 bolt pattern
no crommo shafts available I can find.
Several aftermarket housings available.

ZJ Dana 44a is not an option for installation in a TJ

[WillysEdition04]

There's a vendor here making 8.8 bolt-ins for cheap. around $500 IIRC. You really can't beat that

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f43/bolt-tj-ford-8-8-axle-asemblies-947998/

[vindicated]

if I recall, hussler737 broke his 35 at a stoplight. I think he is running 33's.