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Unread 03-09-2008, 01:31 AM   #1
Grim Jeeper
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Dana 35 to Dana 44 swap question?

I have the opportunity to acquire a Dana 44 from a 2000 TJ, but before I do I'm wondering if this is a simple swap.

Of course I understand that the D 44 is coming from a TJ, so it makes sense that it should fit my TJ. Right?

What about the driveshaft? Will it bolt right up? Is it the correct length? Would I need different U-joints or anything else?

Any other tips or suggestions would be appreciated?

Thanks guys

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Unread 03-09-2008, 01:37 AM   #2
izanuff
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it is the correct length and all and will bolt right up. But you will need a new u-joint I believe. I just cant remember the size ATM
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I just went and grabbed 2 rubi axles locked and everything for $100 each then $1000 for 2 entirely new stronger housing and bingo I got 2 locked 44's that are as strong as 1 tons for $1200
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Unread 03-09-2008, 05:01 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTT98TJ View Post
it is the correct length and all and will bolt right up. But you will need a new u-joint I believe. I just cant remember the size ATM

The pinion on the D44 is longer than that of the 35, he might require a different shaft in addition to the joint difference.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 07:18 PM   #4
hscrugby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlimShady View Post
The pinion on the D44 is longer than that of the 35, he might require a different shaft in addition to the joint difference.
The pinion is the same.
The only d44 that takes the 1330 ujoint would be from a rubicon.
Non rubi d44s use the same 1310.
If you have any lift at all your rear shaft should be fine.
If you have sye/cv ds it should have plenty of play to make up for the ~1-2" difference.
Otherwise getting a DS shortened isn't that pricey.

If the 44 has dsic brakes, you might need a new parking brake cable, (drums attach "inside" the drum, discs on the outside. rock auto has the cables for like 45$ for both.)

I just went from my 98's d35 to a 04 d44. (Ermm, i think 04? maybe 03? somewhere in there)
So if you have any questions, shoot me a PM.

Good luck.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 07:34 PM   #5
fish4life
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Where did you acquire your D44 from the 04 (03?) wrangler? I hear of plenty out on junk yards, but i'm weary of buying one from an accident-damaged Jeep, even if its one of those with front-end damage. Maybe im just paranoid...
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Unread 03-09-2008, 08:07 PM   #6
hscrugby
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Bought it from a guy on here across the state from me.
Other than continuing my hatred of paypal, (he might chime in here too) I trusted it a lot more than a junkyard.
I tried the jy twice, once it was visibly damage, and once it was a d35.
Soooo, be careful if going the junkyard route.
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Unread 03-09-2008, 08:16 PM   #7
jrtdogbone
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This may give you some visual info that helps. http://www.jeep-willys.com/dana44swap.htm

Good Luck

The Dog

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Unread 03-11-2008, 12:48 AM   #8
Grim Jeeper
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That's a great link! Thanks a lot!

Just FYI I do have a lift and the D44 and it's matching D30, both geared 4.56 are now sitting in my garage.

I'll try to tackle it this weekend.

Thanks again.
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Unread 03-11-2008, 05:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hscrugby View Post
The pinion is the same.

Not trying to argue with you here, but if they're the same length then why did my D-44 specific driveshaft out of a 2005 Sport not fit my buddies D-35 equipped 2004 TJ when he needed a spare and I had removed mine for my lift?

I'm am almost positive that the pinion on a D44 is longer (or at least sits closer to the output of the transfer) than that of a 35.
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Unread 03-11-2008, 07:59 AM   #10
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the d44 pinion is longer than the d35. the d35 driveshaft is longer than the d44 to compensate (3/4"). if you have at least a 3" lift then your d35 driveshaft should work - but check to make sure, when you have it all connected jack-up the rear and be sure that you still have play in the driveshaft - you don't want it to smash into the t-case

d44 shaft on top
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Unread 03-11-2008, 09:19 AM   #11
Grim Jeeper
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Thanks for the pic.

I have the FT 3inch, 1.25 BL, and 1 inch MML. I have not had the funds to do an SYE as of yet so I still use the spacer kit on the transfer case.

I'm wondering. With the 1 inch MML in place and the extra 3/4 inch length of the driveshaft if I could get away with removing the spacer on my transfer case.

Any thoughts? Do you guys think that would work?
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Unread 03-11-2008, 09:56 AM   #12
hscrugby
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Just an fyi, mine was real snug with a 3" lift, 1" mml, and the tcase drop.
I had a little compression left, but not much. I had the 3 cylinder style tcase drop, and I thought about taking them out and using washers to try and raise it up a little. Instead I just drove it easy for the week until I did my SYE and bellyup.
You can probably find a shorter stock DS for next to nothing. Or I'd do the SYE before going wheeling.
I'd do one of those two before playing though. (Which you do depends on budget)
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Unread 03-11-2008, 10:08 AM   #13
Grim Jeeper
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Wouldn't taking out the T Case drop relieve some of the compression? Or am I looking at this the wrong way. I also have the Cylinder shaped spacers.

Some have said, that with the MML in place, we may be able to remove the spacers all together.

I guess I'm wondering how 3/4 of an inch could make that much difference? Is it at the point of compressing the rear under flex that is the concern?

Any idea how much it would cost to shorten the drive shaft?
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Unread 03-11-2008, 10:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grim Jeeper View Post
Wouldn't taking out the T Case drop relieve some of the compression? Or am I looking at this the wrong way. I also have the Cylinder shaped spacers.

Some have said, that with the MML in place, we may be able to remove the spacers all together.

I guess I'm wondering how 3/4 of an inch could make that much difference? Is it at the point of compressing the rear under flex that is the concern?

Any idea how much it would cost to shorten the drive shaft?
I think I paid 75 bucks to have a longer tube put in a shaft a few years back, so just cutting on down and re-welding the yoke on shouldn't even be that much as there is no material cost.
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Unread 03-11-2008, 10:44 AM   #15
Jerry Bransford
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Why some always make such a big deal out of the D44's very slightly (about an inch) pinion length when it's being installed into a lifted TJ is beyond me. Doing the math, A2+B2=C2, you'll see that you gain more than enough space for the D35's slightly longer driveshaft when installing a D44 into a TJ. I did the same swap into my lifted TJ, D35c to a D44 out of a TJ, and it fit fine.

And the D35c and D44 used in the TJ use the same 1310 size u-joint. Only the Rubicon uses a larger size driveshaft u-joint.
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