D44's and 35's or D60's and 37's?

**Bennettj13** · 07-25-2008, 10:43 PM

I'm looking at having a chunk of money to throw at my Jeep, The Pumpkinator all at once when I get back from the Gulf next year and I'm trying to decide what to do. I'll probably never have money like this to throw at it again, so if I am going to get into something long term as far as a build goes then I'd like to be able to get the expensive **** out of the way first. I admittedly don't know a ton about Jeeps but I am hooked, and this will be a passion of mine until I die. So, keep the snide remarks to yourselves if something I'm planning conflicts with something else. I simply don't know any better so your effort is wasted.

Build plans: I would like to keep as low of COG as I can, with as much clearance as I can. So with that said, here's what I am planning on doing (if wife/funding/and common sense permits) Suggestions are welcomed and encouraged.

1. AEV Highline kit (Mainly because I dislike tube fenders, so unless I find some tube fronts that I like, I'd rather spend the money on the highline. I dislike them that much. I do like Overkill Engineerings Tube Rears, but I have yet to see a set of fronts I like.)

2. Rokmen Tummy Tuck/Engine Skid/Gas tank skid (clearance/armor)

3. I want to go to at LEAST 35's. But in my heart I want 37's. (I'm hoping someone knowledgeable will come along and tell me it's possible and safe on 44's so I can waste the money from the 60's on other toys.)

4. ORO Swayloc (From everything I've read, I'm a big fan.)

5. Vanco Brakes (I'd rather be safe than dead. Thank you Van and Blaine)

6. The Lift... I'm still undecided, but I really dig the Clayton 4" LA kit (something about that "if you can break it, we'll replace it" warranty speaks well to me). I know that's going to push my COG even higher, and force me farther from the LCOG build that I want, but shouldn't I be able to use shorter coils to squat it down a bit?

Now, those are the options to go with the axles, and here's the question... I have a D44 in the rear already, would it be better to buy a complete axle assembly for the rear and go with disc brakes and have the ARB and gearing already done so it will bolt right in and be ready to roll? I figure that by the time I sell the old D44 (a friend wants it to swap into his TJ), I'll make some money back to put back toward the Jeep. As for the front axle, I'm thinking D44, with an ARB. I don't know for sure which manufacturers to go with for the axles really, so suggestions would be appreciated. I'm thinking 4.88 gearing if I sit on 35's and 5.13's if I can manage the 37's with my build. Do I need D60's for the 37's?

As far as the other things going onto/into the Jeep, I was thinking about the OR-Fab rear tire carrier (Chalk another up to a recommendation from Bransford), Rock-it Man Rockers, Gorilla 12,000lb winch, Tuffy overhead security console (It's not supposed to work, but I've already seen the mods needed to make it work), new wheels (I LOVE the look of these things! http://asp.americanracing.com/wheelssolo/details.asp?parent=305&wheelid=307&name=Predator%2 0(Painted%20Teflon%20%AE)&style=3965&desc=1-piece%20Teflon%AE%20coated%20wheel&section=A), tires (don't know what for sure yet), and some little things like seat covers, Line-X underbody and in the tub. I've not decided on my bumpers yet fully, I'm waiting to see what Skid Row does while I'm gone. They are supposed to have some new options coming out for bumpers.

Any advice, questions, comments would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

SurfnSnow · 07-25-2008, 10:52 PM

Sounds like a cool build up. 37's on a d44 could work but how hard are you on your rig when you wheel? With chromo shafts and a light foot it can be done, but if you wheel it hard just get the 60s. A friend of mine recently bought front and rear Currie 9" with the removable carrier runs 5:13's and 35's, arbs and disc brakes. expensive but he runs some very hard core trails and hasn't had a break yet.

**RockRodHooligan** · 07-25-2008, 10:55 PM

I've already talked to him about the Ford 9", and he's totally against it, doesn't want any Ford product under his rig.

**Bennettj13** · 07-25-2008, 10:56 PM

For now, I'm in mud and dirt with a little play in the rocks. And in the future, I'll be moving to Colorado or Arizona. So, there will be rocks, though I don't know how much mud, if any. Look at my avatar, that's where I got stuck last time after a little rain.

**RnEmOvr** · 07-25-2008, 11:34 PM

if you got the money go 60s, the D44 will hold 37s with chromo shafts but you still gota be carefull and your at your max, where as 60 can run 37s stock and you have room to upgrade later if needed

2005X · 07-25-2008, 11:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnemovr

if you got the money go 60s, the D44 will hold 37s with chromo shafts but you still gota be carefull and your at your max, where as 60 can run 37s stock and you have room to upgrade later if needed

agreed.
if i knew then what i know now, i would have D60s and running 37s or 38s

**Bennettj13** · 07-26-2008, 12:08 AM

Yeah but it's not as easy as just "going 60's" is it? I would have to do all kinds of other **** too wouldn't I (aside from trusses)? If I CAN do 60's, should I buy new or rebuild a junkyard 60? If new, then what mfg?

2005X · 07-26-2008, 12:10 AM

if money is no issue then i would recommend dyntrac
and yes there is alot to upgrade, its not a matter of bolting it up, these axles are big.

**Bennettj13** · 07-26-2008, 12:22 AM

Well, if I do 37's on 44's, what are my options for making it less of a strain other than chro-mo's? Atlas II (with everything else, I doubt I'd have the cash)? What all am I looking at having to buy if I attempt the 60's swap?

bigchevyman24 · 07-26-2008, 12:25 AM

Prorock 60's can be built for you as a direct bolt in for whatever lift you get...however it would be much cheaper to buy a junkyard 60 and build it. Would the full width of a junkyard axle bother you??? You definately won't regret the 60's but there is gonna be a lot more $$$ involved with that. I think chromo D44's would hold up well for what you do and most rock crawling...my D35 has held up to 35" boggers...but I know it's a timebomb. All in your driving and the obstacles you are crossing...my .02

**Bennettj13** · 07-26-2008, 12:39 AM

I just don't want my Jeep blowing up after I sink all that money into it. And to me, there's no such thing as overkill. As for driving, I've been told I drive very well for as little experience as I have. I'm not one to attempt to hot rod in my Jeep. As for the full width of a junkyard axle, I don't know what to compare it to, so I wouldn't be able to say.

2005X · 07-26-2008, 12:49 AM

sounds like you should go with D44s, and 35-37s. i, running the D44 w/cromoly and D30 with cromoly and "36(36.4) TSLs. so far it is a nice setup

**Bennettj13** · 07-26-2008, 12:51 AM

What about a Solid D60 rear (http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=19&idproduct=74) with a D44 (http://www.solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=18&idproduct=80) with Chro-mo front? I think I like the Solids better because they have a lot thicker tube.

**Bennettj13** · 07-26-2008, 12:55 AM

I don't want to spend the money and effort on the 60 if I don't have to, but I'm really hoping that I don't blow the thing up. I've had good luck with my Jeep so far and I'm just waiting for something go wrong. And I haven't even started yet!

bigchevyman24 · 07-26-2008, 01:16 AM

full width junkyard axle should add about 3" on each side(stock is around 60" and full width is around 66")...very bearable to me. You can almost offset it with smaller backspacing if you get new wheels. Personally, I would not be afraid to run 37's on a D44. I've seen mudtrucks run 44" TSL's on chromo'd D44's... My buddy has 39.5" Iroks on his chromo D44's with no breakage and he runs it pretty hard. I associate D60's with a 40"+ tire... With 37's and D60's, I would think you'd have alot of draggin with such a big diff...