D44 F/R swap write ups?

bean66 · 09-11-2009, 09:44 PM

I'm looking for some advice or a technical writeup for the rubicon D44 front and rear axle swaps.

Will I need to do anything with the drive shafts? For either or both the front or rears?

Currently I have 30" tires. And will probably upgrade to either 32" tires at a later date. When that happens a RC 2.5" lift will also likly be installed. How does this impact the drive shaft?

Thanks

**StvDiego** · 09-11-2009, 10:14 PM

I did the same swap on my TJ in 2007, took two of us about three hours, pretty easy to do.

Used the stock rear drive shaft from the D-35 and adapted it to the Rubi D44 using a 1310/1330 combo u-joint (Spicer part# 5-134X) . I'll be putting a SYE in later, but for now it works. It's a very tight fit, not a lot of play left in the driveshaft, but it works. A SYE and new shaft is better, if it's in the budget.

The front driveshaft had to be shortened about 1-3/4"s. I had it re-done at the same time to use the 1330 u-joint.

I had read about problems with the brake lines and e-brake cables but had no issues there. I took the brake line/breather block off the D35 and it bolted right up to the Rubi D44 tube and hard lines. The e-brake cable routed and fit just like the originals, adjusted better than stock and holds with no problems. I also used the stock brake metering block under the hood, made no changes to the stock brake system, bled them out in just a few minutes.

I don't have adjustable LCA's, just extended lower arms that came with the lift. For now they work ok, adjustable LCAs and a better set of UCAs are in the future but the driveline angle isn't that bad with no SYE (3.5" lift).

I made a mount plate and put the pumps under the driver's seat. Also did the extra switch panel mod on the dash and have three switches, one powers the front/rear switches (a semi-safety thing so I can't accidentally engage the lockers at freeway speed.

I'm running mine stock with 35's and have pretty well beat them up. I did twist the right-front outer off last year but no other issues, they've held up better than expected.

A couple of tips: A skateboard was handy in positioning the axles under the Jeep. Rent or borrow a u-joint tool or be prepared to do the BFH and socket routine to get the old joint out. Took quite a bit of time to get them out without the right tool. Spray everything a few times with PB Blaster starting a few days before the swap. Drink beer after it's done.

Redstarlover · 09-11-2009, 10:41 PM

How do I get some D44's F/R in my WJ

**StvDiego** · 09-12-2009, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Redstarlover

How do I get some D44's F/R in my WJ

Doable, but some work. Might consider some JK axles. One of the guys we wheel with down here did that swap on his WJ:

bean66 · 09-17-2009, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StvDiego

I did the same swap on my TJ in 2007, took two of us about three hours, pretty easy to do.

Used the stock rear drive shaft from the D-35 and adapted it to the Rubi D44 using a 1310/1330 combo u-joint (Spicer part# 5-134X) . I'll be putting a SYE in later, but for now it works. It's a very tight fit, not a lot of play left in the driveshaft, but it works. A SYE and new shaft is better, if it's in the budget.

The front driveshaft had to be shortened about 1-3/4"s. I had it re-done at the same time to use the 1330 u-joint.

A few questions...

Does the front drive shaft need the same 1310/1330 u joint as the rear?

Im curious without a lift will I need to shorten the rear axle as well?
Would adding a 2.5" RC lift allow me to use the existing rear axle without having Drive vibes?

What would happen if the lockers were actuated at highway speeds?
Thanks

bean66 · 09-17-2009, 03:40 PM

bump x10
c10

bean66 · 09-17-2009, 08:07 PM

Bump to ten chars

mcg311TJ · 09-17-2009, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bean66

What would happen if the lockers were actuated at highway speeds?
Thanks

Snap crackle pop BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM.... All signs point to a real bad day. I like to try it just for s&G's, but don't have the balls or money to try it. Prob one of the more stupid things I've thought about doing just for fun

472cid · 09-17-2009, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bean66

A few questions...

Does the front drive shaft need the same 1310/1330 u joint as the rear?

Im curious without a lift will I need to shorten the rear axle as well?
Would adding a 2.5" RC lift allow me to use the existing rear axle without having Drive vibes?

What would happen if the lockers were actuated at highway speeds?
Thanks

yes or get front yokes off a dana 30 and switch on to the rubicon axles and then will use all 1310 joints

**StvDiego** · 09-17-2009, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bean66

A few questions...

Does the front drive shaft need the same 1310/1330 u joint as the rear?

Im curious without a lift will I need to shorten the rear axle as well?
Would adding a 2.5" RC lift allow me to use the existing rear axle without having Drive vibes?

What would happen if the lockers were actuated at highway speeds?
Thanks

x2 on the driveshafts and joints, or of course an SYE in the rear or use a Rubi drivesahft and/or Rubi t-case

More than likely you would need to shorten the rear shaft. I initially installed mine with a 4.5" lift and it was almost too tight. I've since gone to a 3.5" lift and have swapped in a Rubi t-case and SYE

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcg311TJ

Snap crackle pop BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM.... All signs point to a real bad day. I like to try it just for s&G's, but don't have the balls or money to try it. Prob one of the more stupid things I've thought about doing just for fun

More than once I've been driving out to the desert, looked at the switches and thought.....

Maybe after I win the lottery

bean66 · 09-22-2009, 02:55 PM

The driveshaft needed to be shortened on the rear. The shop suggested they remove the rear yoke and replace it with a 1330 yoke so that it no longer required the combination u-joint it was about 20$ more to do this.

I found it interesting that they needed a u-joint installed in order to balance the drive shaft.

It should be ready tomorrow afternoon. Install shouldn't take long at all and then out for a test drive.

What type of grease should I use on the output shaft of the transfer case?

bean66 · 09-22-2009, 03:00 PM

[QUOTE=StvDiego;7914418
I had read about problems with the brake lines and e-brake cables but had no issues there. I took the brake line/breather block off the D35 and it bolted right up to the Rubi D44 tube and hard lines. The e-brake cable routed and fit just like the originals, adjusted better than stock and holds with no problems. I also used the stock brake metering block under the hood, made no changes to the stock brake system, bled them out in just a few minutes.

A couple of tips: A skateboard was handy in positioning the axles under the Jeep. [/QUOTE]

Ok so quick question. What type of rear axle did you start with? I have a dana 35 with drum brakes and the e-brake cables from the drum brake look nothing like what is needed for the disc brakes on the 44.

Can you post a picture of your disc brake cable?

Also I used a furniture mover with 4 wheels. This made moving and positioning the axle a snap.

**Unlimited04** · 09-22-2009, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StvDiego

Doable, but some work. Might consider some JK axles. One of the guys we wheel with down here did that swap on his WJ:

nice looking WJ. I agree the JK swap would make sense. same bolt pattern too.

camper49 · 09-22-2009, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bean66

I have a dana 35 with drum brakes and the e-brake cables from the drum brake look nothing like what is needed for the disc brakes on the 44.

Your rubicon dana 44 rear axle did not include the parking brake cables? Hopefully, it included the brake rotors and calipers. Rear disc brakes is one of the benefits of that axle swap.

You need parking brake cables for your rear disc brake application. The connection at the adjustable bracket mounted underneath the tub is the same as for drum brakes. A steel spring collar crimped to the cable sheath. They're kind of a pain to disconnect, so it wouldn't surprise me to know the previous owner just cut them out and ruined perfectly good cables.

At the rear wheels, the attachment is different for drums vs. disc brakes.

You can purchase the correct cables on internet sites like rockauto.com.

bean66 · 09-22-2009, 03:57 PM

Yes disc brakes, rotors and calipers were included. Brake pads appear to be in good condition.
The rotors have a bit of surface rust on them. First tap of the pedal should nock that off just fine.