post #16 of Old 03-30-2009, 08:52 PM
beachboy1200
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well done sir...if everyone one here wasnt about taking there jeep out and pushing it to the limits then we would never see cool stuff like this

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post #17 of Old 03-30-2009, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by les.delancy View Post
If it were me (which it boviously isn't) I would replace you damaged oieces and install a truss. I'm assuming you bent it by jumping a dune. A D44 housing isn't going to stop that without a truss. Just my
A real Dana 44 housing would have been fine. These Tj dana 44's are weak sauce.

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post #18 of Old 03-30-2009, 09:49 PM
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Your Jeep is happy
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post #19 of Old 03-30-2009, 11:07 PM
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I upgraded to the G2 (genuine gear-4 wheel parts brand) d44s about a year ago. It seemed to be the most bang for the buck at the time. was about 2300 for a front I believe, 4.56 gearing arb locker, stronger than stock housing, and higher spline count/stronger axle shafts as well. They should treat your future 35's well. Muck like the saying jeeps arent submarines.....well they arent planes either!

Oh, and I hear currie makes a nice tie rod as well.
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post #20 of Old 03-30-2009, 11:22 PM
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Sucks to hear Wade. though it seems like you might need a d44 . you could offset the cost of the d44 with parting out the d30. are the shafts bent?
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post #21 of Old 03-31-2009, 12:00 AM
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I have to say, kinda sounds like your screwed. Either way ya go, you're gonna dump some dough into it. I'm personally going the HP30 route. If I were in your position, I'd simply the the HP30 with a truss system (most likely custom made, I haven't seen a prebuilt one). I just can't see any other cheaper solution...

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post #22 of Old 03-31-2009, 12:26 AM Thread Starter
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Oh, and I hear currie makes a nice tie rod as well.
I heard that too....I guess you can bend them too!
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post #23 of Old 03-31-2009, 12:27 AM Thread Starter
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Sucks to hear Wade. though it seems like you might need a d44 . you could offset the cost of the d44 with parting out the d30. are the shafts bent?
I don't think so, but not 100% sure yet...just started taking stuff off this evening and didn't get very far....
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post #24 of Old 03-31-2009, 01:05 AM
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theres nothing wrong with your axle. you just made the Jeep smile.

what i would do is go with the HP30 and truss it. however, the truss wont prevent the axle from bending. itll just make it a bit more difficult. to truss it and not have to worry as much about bending it youd have to truss the axle on the bottom which would obviously lower your axle clearance. its easier to crumple a truss on the top of an axle than it is to tear apart a truss on the bottom of the axle - provided the welds are good and strong. thats why you see trophy trucks in baja with a big truss on the bottom of their axles rather than the top.

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post #25 of Old 03-31-2009, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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I have to say, kinda sounds like your screwed. Either way ya go, you're gonna dump some dough into it. I'm personally going the HP30 route. If I were in your position, I'd simply the the HP30 with a truss system (most likely custom made, I haven't seen a prebuilt one). I just can't see any other cheaper solution...
I don't know why the T&T Customs (Treks) Truss wouldn't work if I will be using a non-vacuum discoed HP D30 Although I'm not 100% sure where I tap the ARB fitting with the truss in place (Mine is at the top of the pumpkin now which looks like it would/should be covered with this truss.

http://www.gotreks.com/page.asp?pageid=126




Last edited by SuperWade2; 03-31-2009 at 09:10 AM.
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post #26 of Old 03-31-2009, 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
I don't know why the T&T Customs (Treks) Truss wouldn't work if I will be using a non-vacuum discoed HP D30 Although I'm not 100% sure where I tap the ARB fitting with the truss in place (Mine is at the top of the pumpkin now which looks like it would/should be covered with this truss.

http://www.gotreks.com/page.asp?pageid=126
For the ARB, I would simply drill a hole in the top of the truss, maybe reinforce the insides a bit with some tubing straight down, that way you'll have clear access with the truss in place. I'm sure you could figure that one out. Is the TNT for a LP30? I but you're right, that shouldn't interfere with much, if anything. I just never thought 30s would have trusses...then again, they do have lockers...

I've been thinking, since you're in a bit of a bind, I'll give you $500 for your Vancos, then you can go out and pull a HP30 or whatever you want and get back on the road. Consider it a public service.

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I once slipped with a rotary wire brush that burned through my jeans and left a very nice deep gouge in my leg.

If it had been up a little higher, I'd have gone from a rooster to a hen.
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post #27 of Old 03-31-2009, 10:13 AM
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or if you're in a pinch, I found 3 regular d30's (orig from tjs) for under $100. One was for $50, so you could get another d30 truss it and then swap out the parts. It's not an upgrade but it'll get you rolling quickly
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post #28 of Old 03-31-2009, 10:23 AM Thread Starter
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I've been thinking, since you're in a bit of a bind, I'll give you $500 for your Vancos, then you can go out and pull a HP30 or whatever you want and get back on the road. Consider it a public service.
While that's a nice offer and all, I think I'll pass ... If I were in a real pinch, I'd yank the D30 and steering (it has my OEM TJ steering and Axle shafts in it now anyhow) off of my Comanche, bolt it on and run it in 2WD (since it's geared @ 4.10's vs 4.56's) until I could get something else setup for the TJ. As it is, I can drive the MJ until I get the TJ back and going.

Once I have the thing off, and can get the free HP D30 now is as good of a time as any to do that upgrade and truss it...

Wade
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post #29 of Old 03-31-2009, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SuperWade2 View Post
I don't know why the T&T Customs (Treks) Truss wouldn't work if I will be using a non-vacuum discoed HP D30 Although I'm not 100% sure where I tap the ARB fitting with the truss in place (Mine is at the top of the pumpkin now which looks like it would/should be covered with this truss.

http://www.gotreks.com/page.asp?pageid=126



It looks like those UCA Mounting brackets are probably set up higher than the stock ones on the axle... is there any problem with that, or will I just have to adjust the lengths to get the right angle?
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post #30 of Old 03-31-2009, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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My FREE HP D30 (non-disco)...not sure what year it was out of, and it actually still had the LCA's/springs/shocks/steering (tierod/draglink still on it)... The only thing the guy said he might want back is the Knuckles and Calipers, but he didn't even seem too worried about those

Not sure how I'm going to get it out of the truck by myself, but it'll probably sit there for a couple days...might gut the thing in the bed of the MJ and then get a buddy to help lift it into the garage...

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