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Unread 06-30-2010, 03:59 AM   #1
TeeJay00
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D30 pinion oil seal replacement???

It's leaking a lot now and I was wondering if I can do it myself with my basic tools... Any writeup on this subject?? Tried searching for it and ended up with hundreds of pages. Couldn't find it

Thanks

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Unread 06-30-2010, 12:06 PM   #2
rchase559
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Check out this link. I thought it was a thorough write up.

JeepingSingles.net: Tech Section - Pinion Seal Replacement - TJ/YJ

The hardest part for me was getting the pinion nut off. Everything else was fairly easy.
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Unread 06-30-2010, 12:24 PM   #3
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That's good write-up. Unless the low pinion Dana 30 is different they don't use crush sleeves (like a Dana 35) but pre-load shims so you don't have to worry about crushing it. I would just use loctite and torque it down. I can't remember what the torque value is though.
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Unread 06-30-2010, 01:03 PM   #4
TeeJay00
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Thanks you guys

A couple of questions though...

I have tried to remove the pinion nut before but it was too tight... Would I brake anything if I put some extra elbow grease to it?
And what damage could happen to the crush sleeve if I tighten the nut too much?

I'm going to try to follow that writeup but any extra tips for a first timer??

Thanks again
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Unread 06-30-2010, 01:04 PM   #5
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TJ 30's use a crush sleeve.

Most pinion seal failures are a result of pinion braing failures. I would check the pinion bearings before automatically moving to the seal.
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Unread 06-30-2010, 01:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnine View Post
TJ 30's use a crush sleeve.

Most pinion seal failures are a result of pinion braing failures. I would check the pinion bearings before automatically moving to the seal.
Hmmm... interesting!! How do I do that
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Unread 06-30-2010, 01:12 PM   #7
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnine View Post
TJ 30's use a crush sleeve.

Most pinion seal failures are a result of pinion braing failures. I would check the pinion bearings before automatically moving to the seal.
Yeah I wasn't sure about this. Show's how much I know about TJ's

Since it has a crush sleeve the ideal way to tighten it is to measure the pre-load. I used a in-lb torque wrench for bikes and measured the rotating torque. However you won't get an accurate reading with the ring gear in. When I changed the seal on my D35 I just hit it with the electric impact and some loctite and it worked fine. Just make sure you can rotate the pinion without a lot of effort after tighten it down.
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Unread 06-30-2010, 01:13 PM   #8
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I thought the Torque specs were around 175 lbs, and is quite a PITA to remove. Some say dont use an impact to put it back on, but i don't see me using just a breaker bar or cheater pipe to get that kind of torque.. lemme see if i can find that link.

the more the better i guess,... last post on the second link has more info. it looks like 200 lbs should be ok.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical...inionSeals.htm

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51765

Last edited by ssb; 06-30-2010 at 01:24 PM..
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Unread 06-30-2010, 02:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssb View Post
I thought the Torque specs were around 175 lbs, and is quite a PITA to remove. Some say dont use an impact to put it back on, but i don't see me using just a breaker bar or cheater pipe to get that kind of torque.. lemme see if i can find that link.

the more the better i guess,... last post on the second link has more info. it looks like 200 lbs should be ok.

Tech Report - Extreme Duty Rocker Replacement

Dana 30 pinion gear torque specs? - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association

The second link just copied the steps from the service manual... But thanks a lot for your help

I have the service manual for my TJ but most of the time I don't have the tools they are reffering to in it. Which is why the first "do it yourself" link with the pictures is closer to my situation.

Anyway I'm not a mechanic nor is english my first language so please guys be patient with me if I ask for more explanations about the terms you use

So what's the best way to remove that pinion nut with basic home garage tools??
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Unread 06-30-2010, 03:54 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeJay00 View Post
It's leaking a lot now and I was wondering if I can do it myself with my basic tools... Any writeup on this subject?? Tried searching for it and ended up with hundreds of pages. Couldn't find it

Thanks

Here's my write-up; http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/pi...5-d30-1031177/
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Unread 06-30-2010, 04:11 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
Thanks a lot... That's a quite impressive and detailed writeup

How important is it to not change the pre-load as you mentioned? And what is the pre-load?
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Unread 06-30-2010, 04:12 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by RaggedOleMan View Post
Funny.. this is the link i was looking for.. . Still .. i would think you would have to have the jeep jacked up high enough or lifted up enough to get a breaker bar in there to leverage that type of torque to bust it loose. Some type of impact wrench would be best. Maybe rent one? I wonder if anyone here has done it by hand?
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Unread 06-30-2010, 04:51 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by TeeJay00 View Post
Thanks you guys

A couple of questions though...

I have tried to remove the pinion nut before but it was too tight... Would I brake anything if I put some extra elbow grease to it?
And what damage could happen to the crush sleeve if I tighten the nut too much?

I'm going to try to follow that writeup but any extra tips for a first timer??

Thanks again
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeJay00 View Post
Thanks a lot... That's a quite impressive and detailed writeup

How important is it to not change the pre-load as you mentioned? And what is the pre-load?
Thanks for the kind words.



Regarding the pre-load & crush sleeve, I'm mot qualified to answer that. It's my understanding that it has to do with the set up of the pinion & gears. We all know that's a fairly cumbersome & detail orientated task, best left to someone that knows WTF they're doing. And not upsetting the crush sleeve is a component of the pre-load, I believe.

That pinion nut is designed specifically for that location and the lbs/stress under which it must maintain its integrity. That said, anything that would disrupt the pre-load it's set to, may contribute to trouble and/or expense further down the trail.

Removing that nut was done with an impact gun that had a 950lb rating. I'm sure with enough leverage you could do it by hand/cheater/breaker bar. Others may have some insight or tricks. Good luck to you and thanks again for the positive comments.

~John

Last edited by RaggedOleMan; 06-30-2010 at 07:10 PM..
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Unread 06-30-2010, 06:47 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
That's good write-up. Unless the low pinion Dana 30 is different they don't use crush sleeves.
HPd30's don't use a crush sleeve, LPd30's do...
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Unread 07-01-2010, 02:56 AM   #15
TeeJay00
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Ok I gave it some thought... With the information I got from you guys so far I think I would be able to do this seal change on my own.
However, with all this talk about crush sleeves and pre-loads there are a couple of factors here!

First, this seal has been changed a couple of years ago during one of my trips to Jordan. Anyway I didn't know the mechanic who changed it. I was travelling therefore it was an emergency fix so I don't really know if the new seal he used was ok or not and I also don't know if he put everything back correctly.

Now... Should I just go ahead with the change myself regardless of how tight/loose everything is currently. Or should I just take it to my mechanic and have him check everything while he is at it?

And while he is doing it I figured I would be a big PITA ti him and ask lots of questions to learn how to do it next time myself

You know what? forget about it... I am the kind of person who likes to learn from my own mistakes... I'm gonna do it myself next weekend What's the worst thing that could happen???

Thank you all for being so helpfull
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