CV Drive Shaft U-Joints - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
Mayfair_Jeeper
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CV Drive Shaft U-Joints

What type do I need? I am getting ready to put in a used shaft, but need to replace a couple joints so I dont have to worry about them later. The shaft goes with an SYE and has a Dana35 on one end. Thanks, Shane.


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post #2 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:28 PM
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post #3 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:29 PM
Jerry Bransford
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The very best replacement u-joint I can recommend for a non-Rubicon driveshaft that is reasonably priced is a Spicer 5-785x. You can get them either from a local driveshaft repair/rebuild shop or online. Few Autoparts stores carry anything that good, most just carry store brands.

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post #4 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:32 PM
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FWIW, if you replace all your joints in any driveshaft with Tom Wood joints. They will replace them and/or any damaged shaft running all TW joints.

-John

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post #5 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
Mayfair_Jeeper
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I was thining of getting those TW Gold Joints...Just not sure of the type. 1310, or 1330 ect

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post #6 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:44 PM
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Well you have 1310 yokes.....so 1310. I don't think you can beat Spicer.

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post #7 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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makes Sense to me..thanks guys...

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post #8 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 02:48 PM
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1310 if you don't have a Rubi...i like Spicer and have a few spares, but i don't think Spicer would replace your joints and/or shaft if God forbid they busted.

BTW, they (TW) replace them for FREE.

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post #9 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 03:09 PM
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also to kinda go along with what Jerry mentioned about autopart stores joints....they suck, sure get them for a trail spare or something, but they come in different sizes. Spicer or TW joints will come in the correct 1310 size, the others are just slightly smaller, and when you install them they have a minute amount of play in them causing them to get busted easily. I know from experience, i replaced 6 rear joints in the matter of 2mths, the only good thing is that they were the Vatozone cheapy lifetime replacement joints and they replaced them for free each time, but i rather just buy the good quality ones and not have to worry about it.

-John

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post #10 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
Mayfair_Jeeper
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Jerry,
I see that the Spicer 5-785x is a non-greaseable, and the TW Gold Seal are greaseable. for 3 bucks more why shouldnt I go with the TW?

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post #11 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 08:50 PM
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Cause you don't need to waste your time with gease every 30 days, do you?
they go bad real fast if you don't gease them.
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post #12 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcg311TJ View Post
Cause you don't need to waste your time with gease every 30 days, do you?
they go bad real fast if you don't gease them.
first off, you really only need to pack them with more grease when you change your oil; if you do that every 30 days then you have bigger problems. it takes about 8 more minutes to go thru all the grease zerks on your rig anyway whats a couple more going to kill?

second, what makes you think they go bad real fast if you don't "gease" them? do you have documents showing the life of a greasable joint that isn't maintained properly.

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post #13 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 09:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97casteeltj View Post
first off, you really only need to pack them with more grease when you change your oil; if you do that every 30 days then you have bigger problems. it takes about 8 more minutes to go thru all the grease zerks on your rig anyway whats a couple more going to kill?

second, what makes you think they go back real fast if you don't "gease" them? do you have documents showing the life of a greasable joint that isn't maintained properly.
Damn bro, Did I touch a nerve?

Yes the the 30 day thing is a little much. I was just kinda throwing that out there for the extra on Jeep maint list bs. Sorry for not just saying the facts. you got me there

And to answer your second question, No I do not have facts either way Good or bad. I just know what I've seen and that's all I can go by.

Questions for you Sir.... So if you don't gease them will they stay good or go bad? And if they stay good, why would they need a zerk?
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post #14 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcg311TJ View Post
Damn bro, Did I touch a nerve?

Yes the the 30 day thing is a little much. I was just kinda throwing that out there for the extra on Jeep maint list bs. Sorry for not just saying the facts. you got me there

And to answer your second question, No I do not have facts either way Good or bad. I just know what I've seen and that's all I can go by.

Questions for you Sir.... So if you don't gease them will they stay good or go bad? And if they stay good, why would they need a zerk?


did that look like i was pissed? lol

you didn't touch a nerve.....

for your question about greasing them:

do you think they lose grease b/c they are greasable? so non-greasable joints don't collect dirt/water/mud in them??

one reason i would get a greasable joint over non-greasable is b/c if you're like most guys, you will maintain the joints and not just replace them. so while you're doing your weekly/monthly/whateverly maintenance routine you can hit the joint and pump them full of grease and with doing that you push out all the crap that may have collected in them, you can't do that on a non-greaseable joint.

just my 2 pennies

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post #15 of 22 Old 02-16-2010, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Ok....so on the joints I already have, there are zerk fittings in the elbow of the joint. All the TW Gold ones are on the cap. Is there a reason for this?

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