Currie tie rod flip mod - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 33 Old 10-12-2012, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
hulud44
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Currie tie rod flip mod

Had to install a new drag link today, so I figured while I had the steering apart why not upgrade something. So I decided to do the tie rod flip since it was easy to do and fairly cheap. I looked around and there were a few threads on it. I took pics as always for my build figured throw some more info out there for others.
There seemed to be a few places to pick these up and they all run about the same price. I went with the one off of Mr. Blaine's black magic brakes coop section: Part came in about a week.

3rd part down:
http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php

TRE under knuckle:



The knuckle has to be drilled out to 3/4". Picked up a new bit since I didnt have that size. $32 at true value....The most expensive part of the mod. I tacked the insert in just for good mesure.




The stock sway bar mount does have to be cut off. I havent run a front sway bar for a bout a year anyway but once I pick up an antirock Ill also be picking up the relocation bracket off the blackmagic site as well.

Same page, 4th part down:
http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php



Once insert is in and securer just rotate TRE and mount upside down. IT uses the same style nut as used on JK steering eliminating the PITA castle nut and cotter pins. Be sure to check alingment once your finished. Half a turn may not make a world of difference but its good to be thorough.




That's all there was to it. That extra bit of clearance will make a big difference especially when playin in the rocks. Heading up to CT to test it out tomorrow...


2000 Wrangler/ Waggy44/ 8.8/ 4:88/ Locked/ 37 Red label stickies / 3-4 link/ 103" WB/ Atlas 4 10.3
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...build-2789314/
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post #2 of 33 Old 10-12-2012, 09:38 PM
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Looks good. Very beneficial.

1997 TJ - 4.25 lift, 4.88, D30 w/ Detroit, D44 w/ Superior'ed Detroit and 33 spline shafts, Currie track bar, Warn XD9000i, Currie Tire Carrier, full armor and tube fenders, full custom trunk, Tom Woods shafts, AA SYE, Currie control arms, and Rigid lights. BIG BLACK is my baby.
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post #3 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 12:34 AM
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Looks easy enough. I'll probably do this on the HPd30 I'm building up.

Question - is this just done on the drivers side, or do you do it on the passenger side as well?
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post #4 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 04:09 AM Thread Starter
hulud44
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Just the DS. The passenger side is the fixed end of the draglink, which I blew and caused me to replace and do this in the first place.

2000 Wrangler/ Waggy44/ 8.8/ 4:88/ Locked/ 37 Red label stickies / 3-4 link/ 103" WB/ Atlas 4 10.3
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http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/p...build-2789314/
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post #5 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 05:57 AM
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So it's basically just giving you a couple extra inches on the drivers side only? I can see where that would be halfway useful.

Looking at a picture of the whole setup, looks like moving the passenger side won't really buy you anything, and could upset the steering geometry.
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post #6 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
So it's basically just giving you a couple extra inches on the drivers side only? I can see where that would be halfway useful.

Looking at a picture of the whole setup, looks like moving the passenger side won't really buy you anything, and could upset the steering geometry.
Passenger's side is challenging. First, look at the bends in the draglink. How do you make those work if you flip it? Can you reverse the bends? Well, actually with a RHD draglink you can but still not straightforward. OK, no what do you do about the trackbar to avoid bumpsteer. Last, cycle it all and see where else you've created interfence.

The way the tie rod crosses the front and connects to the draglink by flipping the driver's side you get extra clearance pretty much all the way across the tie rod.

One thing that I didn't see mentioned is that you can only do this if you have wheels with less backspacing (probably 4" or less to be sure). On the bottom of the steering knuckle arm puts the TRE in the widest part of the wheel. When you flip to the top TRE in a much narrower part of the wheel. If you tried to do with say stock wheels (5.5") going to have interference issues there.

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post #7 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 08:05 AM
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Biff-

Thanks. Good info. That moves this into the "maybe later" category of mods.
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post #8 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Passenger's side is challenging. First, look at the bends in the draglink. How do you make those work if you flip it? Can you reverse the bends? Well, actually with a RHD draglink you can but still not straightforward. OK, no what do you do about the trackbar to avoid bumpsteer. Last, cycle it all and see where else you've created interfence.

The way the tie rod crosses the front and connects to the draglink by flipping the driver's side you get extra clearance pretty much all the way across the tie rod.

One thing that I didn't see mentioned is that you can only do this if you have wheels with less backspacing (probably 4" or less to be sure). On the bottom of the steering knuckle arm puts the TRE in the widest part of the wheel. When you flip to the top TRE in a much narrower part of the wheel. If you tried to do with say stock wheels (5.5") going to have interference issues there.
4.25" BS with no interference issues here with the TRE Flip (5.5" Gambler Rims and 1.25" Spidertrax Spacers)

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post #9 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
....and could upset the steering geometry.
Raising the driver's side of the tie rod doesn't change any of the geometry that counts in the least.

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post #10 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
Raising the driver's side of the tie rod doesn't change any of the geometry that counts in the least.
Agree, but I was talking about the passenger side, which would definitely throw off the parallel with the tie rod.
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post #11 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
Agree, but I was talking about the passenger side, which would definitely throw off the parallel with the tie rod.
Trackbar?

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post #12 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEK3 View Post
Agree, but I was talking about the passenger side, which would definitely throw off the parallel with the tie rod.
No, that's not an issue. The two components that need to be parallel are the trackbar and drag link... the tie rod isn't part of that parallel relationship requirement.

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post #13 of 33 Old 10-13-2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
No, that's not an issue. The two components that need to be parallel are the trackbar and drag link... the tie rod isn't part of that parallel relationship requirement.
Trackbar. Yep, that's the word I was looking for. Sorry, just flew halfway around the world, and still a little foggy.
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post #14 of 33 Old 02-08-2013, 07:21 AM
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I'm about to install this onto my 04 TJ with 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing. Without having taken any exact measurements the space between the flipped TRE and the wheel looks like it would be extremely tight, if it fits at all.

For my own sanity, can someone post a picture of this installed with a 15" wheel with 4" or more of backspacing? superwade posted a picture, but its pretty far away.

Thanks,
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post #15 of 33 Old 02-08-2013, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
I'm about to install this onto my 04 TJ with 15x8 wheels with 4" of backspacing. Without having taken any exact measurements the space between the flipped TRE and the wheel looks like it would be extremely tight, if it fits at all.

For my own sanity, can someone post a picture of this installed with a 15" wheel with 4" or more of backspacing? superwade posted a picture, but its pretty far away.

Thanks,
PM SuperWade2. Believe he's done it with 4.25".

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