Currie steering question - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
DirtRider1357
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Currie steering question

I'm making the jump to 35's on my lj rubi and was going to just do the Zj steering upgrade, but after some thinking I decided to save a little extra and do black magic brakes and currentlync steering. My question is, should I save a little more for the whole system or do I just need the tie rod? It's my dd with light to possible moderate weekend wheeling. Thanks to all.


Also on a different note, does anyone know If these wheels will fit on my jeep
15x8 3.75 spacing
http://www.quadratec.com/products/92600_002X_P5__PG.htm


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post #2 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:42 AM
BYuen
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For Currie steering, you need the whole system which consists of the drag link as well. The Currie tie rod will not fit on the much smaller oem rod ends.
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post #3 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:44 AM
Fingers302
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For light wheeling though, if money is an issue, I think your stock steering will be ok. Mine is still stock and I wheel pretty hard, but not that often. The brakes are a sure thing though.

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post #4 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:47 AM
BYuen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fingers302 View Post
For light wheeling though, if money is an issue, I think your stock steering will be ok. Mine is still stock and I wheel pretty hard, but not that often. The brakes are a sure thing though.
Oem steering is not ok with 35s for light wheeling. ZJ tie rod is a bare minimum.


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post #5 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:48 AM
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I wouldn't recomend stock steering with 35s for any wheeling. But, the ZJ stuff may be an alternative. If you can aford it, go ahead and do the Currie.

I can't get your link, but it they have the right bolt pattern that size and backspacing will be fine.

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post #6 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:48 AM
Gary2
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If I understand your question correctly , the only way to go with Currie is the whole Currectlync system not just their tie rod . The ZJ tie rod may be slightly stronger than OE TJ but still uses the small OE sized joints inside the ends ( not the stud, the actual parts that wear ) which don't compare to the Currie at all. The price is much larger but normally so are your tires and wheels in comparison to the OE which is what the tiny TREs were made for.. not to mention the angles the OE TRE joints are on is not optimum where the Currie is angled so the ends are working at the correct angle when installed on a lifted vehicle. You get more than you may think for a few bucks more.
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post #7 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 07:57 AM
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Guys, Currie TRE studs are the same size as stock....otherwise they wouldn't fit into the tapered holes in the knuckles and pitman arm. The shanks are larger. You can run a Currie tie rod with the stock drag link and the Currie drag link with the stock tie rod. But neither one of those scenarios makes a whole lot of sense....get them both and don't worry about it.

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post #8 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Guys, Currie TRE studs are the same size as stock....otherwise they wouldn't fit into the tapered holes in the knuckles and pitman arm. The shanks are larger. You can run a Currie tie rod with the stock drag link and the Currie drag link with the stock tie rod. But neither one of those scenarios makes a whole lot of sense....get them both and don't worry about it.
^This. I just swapped it all over and wrapped up my stock stuff as spares. Do it once and be done with it. I think I remember MO2500 going through a mountain of ZJ tie rods before he made his own steering.

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post #9 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 08:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped
Guys, Currie TRE studs are the same size as stock....otherwise they wouldn't fit into the tapered holes in the knuckles and pitman arm. The shanks are larger. You can run a Currie tie rod with the stock drag link and the Currie drag link with the stock tie rod. But neither one of those scenarios makes a whole lot of sense....get them both and don't worry about it.
Yes, I was saying you can't get the Currie tie rod without the Currie ends and expect to use it on the oem TREs. Thats what I thought the op was asking. I didn't think about the other combination of using the Currie tie rod and ends with the stock drag link. That doesn't make sense either.
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post #10 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
DirtRider1357
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Okay cool, I'm going to go with this once I get the money. Where is the cheapest place to buy it from or is it about the same everywhere?

87 YJ, 4.0L, 5speed......sold, 05 LJ Rubicon
"It'll buff out"
"If it moves and shouldn't, use Duct Tape & Zip Ties. If it doesn't move and should, use WD-40 & A hammer"
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post #11 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 10:21 AM
Jerry Bransford
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www.savvyoffroad.com is a good source for discounted Currie parts.

Getting Savvy...

When you have a choice, buy American.
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post #12 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 10:22 AM
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Look around. Savvy usually has pretty good prices on Currie stuff.

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post #13 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 11:06 AM
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I would personally go for the Currie steering on 35's...I don't think the ZJ will hold up eventually.
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post #14 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 11:09 AM
Ross
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Even on 33s and light wheeling you can bend you stock tie rod. I did the ZJ swap years ago. I did have to replace it once, I never bent it but the joint on the end (psng side) did wear out and caused DW.

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post #15 of 36 Old 06-26-2013, 11:11 AM
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Do people just read the first post and then respond? The OP already said he decided to go with the Currie steering.

My RHD TJ - Savvy equipped... And loving it!

I drive on the right side, what's wrong with you?


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