[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by Big Red 95

sorry don't mean to highjack the thread but I have more questions.
The original set up used grade 8 bolts and lock nuts and i coated the nut treads pretty well with red locktite. the longer bolt is i believe is bent because when i went to get the alignment they could get the bolt off my nothing else would budge or even slide off the bolt. if the death wobble was bad enough to bend that bolt i can see where it would make the hole out of round.

It's unlikely that the bolt is bent from DW unless it got loose. The leverage is far too short to bend a grade 8 bolt if it's tight. It's likely the red loctite is sticking stuff together.

I already got the sleeves at Lowes. they are 7/8 OD and 5/8 ID I got new grade bolts and lock nuts too. My father-in-law is a machinist so i should be able to get a bit to allow the sleeve to fit snugly. I can't afford anything else at this point. what would think the expectations of that would be? i will take off the spindles on my spare D30 before i scrap it just incase i need to convert back to a tapered set up.

Have your FIL make you some sleeves out of chrome moly to the same dimensions and knurl the OD for you. He will know what that means. If you don't have any short pieces of Chrome moly tubing, shoot me a PM with your address and I'll send you enough for two sleeves in a padded envelope. The shipping will be cheap that way.

The knurling will make for a nice press fit. Have him chamfer for a tig weld top and bottom at a 45 degree angle with about 3/16's across the face. Countersink the holes in the knuckle the same for a nice little groove for the tig weld. BTW- You don't need any special tig rod to do those welds. Normal tig rod for mild steel works great.

[Big Red 95]

will see what he has in the shop. don't think he has any chrome moly. they mostly make tattoo guns and stuff like that. they do take side jobs too for what ever to kept them busy though. Thanks for you help

[KKiowaTJ]

Originally Posted by Big Red 95

yes the currie kit is even esier to install but it cost 400 bucks. the RK kit is almost 100.00 cheaper. Plus like i also said the heim joints are cheaper to replace further down the line. I don't thinkg they are any less heavy duty than tie rod ends. the RK kit has a 1.5" tie rod and 1.25" draglink. that would lead me to believe the RK kit has a stronger tie rod because it is a 1/4" bigger. the RK kit also conferts to a high steer set up with the tie rod on top of the spindles. I believe the Currie kit still mounts below the spindles.

Not saying RK is not a great steering kit, But from the pic, You really didnt gain that much over the knuckle with the big tie-rod, A little yes, But not enough to keep it really at of harms way.

And you get what you pay, I have seen Heims fail the first trip out, But haven't herd of anyone with Currie breakage problems unless on a super hard trail that would kill anything.

Again not knocking it a bit, As long as it preforms great for you and your happy, Thats what counts. But i didn't have to ream out anything to install mine, More less plug and play. The only thing took me the longest was adjusting the SS to where i wanted it.

[Greg_Volkman]

the lower heim and bolt in that pic scares me.

[Bitzorock]

Originally Posted by JeepinSoldier

Of the two systems you are looking at, for a daily driver, I would go with the Currie, as long as it will work with any aftermarket diff cover that you may be using. The Currie would have contacted my BTF cover at full steering lock on either side.

I ran a RK gen II setup for a year. My 05 LJ Rubicon is also my daily driver. For a Jeep that spends more time off road on extreme trails the brute strength is problably worth it. I ran the tie rod full into a rock at Oak Ridge and it diddnt faze it at all, just scraped some paint.

The tie rod and drag link are literally solid. If you decide on this steering, you may want to consider a high performance steering pump and box as well from PSC or AGR.

However, for a Jeep that spends more time on the road, the weight of the solid RK steering components was stressing out my stock power steering pump, The steering felt heavier, and the heim joints were getting noisy. I did not like it on a daily driver. The gen 2 bracket design limited my turning radius. RK has since re designed the system with a misalignment joint that gives full turning radius.

I switched to the ORO U Turn and could not be happier. It's much stronger than stock and raises the tie rod a few inches, pushes the tie rod out so it clears my diff cover, uses greaseable tie rod ends, and the steering feel is better than stock. Especially the on center feel. No more 'dead' spot.

I was looking at that ORO u turn kit.. How is it on the road? I know the ORO stands for Off Road Only but I am not sure if that is just a brand name or what? Thanks ahead of time.

[robncar]

Originally Posted by JeepinSoldier

I switched to the ORO U Turn and could not be happier. It's much stronger than stock and raises the tie rod a few inches, pushes the tie rod out so it clears my diff cover, uses grease-able tie rod ends, and the steering feel is better than stock. Especially the on center feel. No more 'dead' spot.

Excellent commentary and comparison of the different products, JeepinSoldier!

It's interesting to me that you like the ORO. I ran the U-Turn for a couple years until I could no longer do so due to the Vanco brakes. I run the Currie now and have to say, I like it much better than the U-Turn; especially for the cost delta. Now, for what the guy paid used for my ORO kit, I would have liked it too; but not at full price.

The Currie install was a cake walk compared to the ORO. I never really cared for the adapter plates that move the tie rod forward. Even with red loctite, I always worried that they'd loosen. The ackermann angles are screwed up with the U-Turn. Plan to get tire screech in parking lots at low speed that sound like you're doing donuts. The Currie "feels" tighter on road (haven't had a chance to get it offroad yet). I also seem to have a tighter turning radius again? Not really sure why as I didn't realize it with the ORO and investigate but it turns like stock again at full lock. I saw Blaine say once that the U-Turn was designed to work with a height adjustable suspension. I think it is likely great for that application.

For a rig that is daily driven, I don't think you can beat the Currie; ease of install, quality, and price. I wouldn't consider heim joints for a DD, but that's just me. To each their own.

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by robncar

Excellent commentary and comparison of the different products, JeepinSoldier!

It's interesting to me that you like the ORO. I ran the U-Turn for a couple years until I could no longer do so due to the Vanco brakes.

Boy, I don't remember seeing that question come up from you about the Vanco's. The kits do work with the ORO brackets and considerable expense and engineering went into them to make it so. That's the main reason the 15" kits have the unit bearing bosses machined down to be the same height after the reinforcing bracket is installed. That lets the ORO bracket sit on top of them and be the same height as OEM.

If you run the 16" kits and let Van know, they will machine the bolt bracket down for the same reasons.

I run the Currie now and have to say, I like it much better than the U-Turn; especially for the cost delta. Now, for what the guy paid used for my ORO kit, I would have liked it too; but not at full price.

The Currie install was a cake walk compared to the ORO. I never really cared for the adapter plates that move the tie rod forward. Even with red loctite, I always worried that they'd loosen. The ackermann angles are screwed up with the U-Turn. Plan to get tire screech in parking lots at low speed that sound like you're doing donuts. The Currie "feels" tighter on road (haven't had a chance to get it offroad yet). I also seem to have a tighter turning radius again? Not really sure why as I didn't realize it with the ORO and investigate but it turns like stock again at full lock. I saw Blaine say once that the U-Turn was designed to work with a height adjustable suspension. I think it is likely great for that application.

Accurate assessment.

For a rig that is daily driven, I don't think you can beat the Currie; ease of install, quality, and price. I wouldn't consider heim joints for a DD, but that's just me. To each their own.

You left out offroad. The Currie works very well there.

[robncar]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

Boy, I don't remember seeing that question come up from you about the Vanco's. The kits do work with the ORO brackets and considerable expense and engineering went into them to make it so. That's the main reason the 15" kits have the unit bearing bosses machined down to be the same height after the reinforcing bracket is installed. That lets the ORO bracket sit on top of them and be the same height as OEM.

If you run the 16" kits and let Van know, they will machine the bolt bracket down for the same reasons.

Yes, I'm running the 16" kit with my 15" AR Outlaw II's. It was on your advice, Blaine, to go with the 16" kit after the fit check if it was compatible with the wheels, thanks again! Van added this setup to his "may fit" list. The clearance was so tight that I had to grind off some material from the pad clip ears! I also can't run tape balance weights anymore but that's no big deal.

It was Van that told me the ORO U-Turn wouldn't work with the 16" kit. But, I was at his shop at the time, ready to pick up what I think was his last 16" kit on a Friday and didn't explore it further with him.

I wanted an "excuse" to run the Currie anyway, don't tell my wife that though...

[nickeagle]

I have the poisen spider HD steering and love it.. You can get heim or tie rod also..
https://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.html
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg198/nickeagle1/cj/cj5sept18010.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg198/nickeagle1/cj/cj5sept18005.jpg

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by nickeagle

I have the poisen spider HD steering and love it.. You can get heim or tie rod also..
https://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.html
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg198/nickeagle1/cj/cj5sept18010.jpg
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg198/nickeagle1/cj/cj5sept18005.jpg

What specifically do you like about it that makes it a better choice than the Currie set-up?

[nickeagle]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

What specifically do you like about it that makes it a better choice than the Currie set-up?

I dont know alot about the currie system. I have been happy with everything i have bought from psc, so that is why i bought the psc steering. It is deff a huge upgrade from stock in beefyness.

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by nickeagle

I dont know alot about the currie system. I have been happy with everything i have bought from psc, so that is why i bought the psc steering. It is deff a huge upgrade from stock in beefyness.

Unfortunately it fails to address the true weak part of the stock draglink. That would be the threaded end right where it goes into the adjuster. That bends quite readily.

[Bitzorock]

Now can you run these steering systems with no lift?

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by Bitzorock

Now can you run these steering systems with no lift?

The drag link is too long for an unlifted TJ.

[Bitzorock]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

The drag link is too long for an unlifted TJ.

Just another reason to get a lift.. hehehehehe