[odwaud]

My drag link, tie rod, are tie rod ends are all shot. Instead of just replacing them, I want to put in a tougher steer system.

I am looking at both the Currie and Rock Krawler steering systems. How much better offroad and how much worse on road is the Rock Krawler? My TJ is my DD, so I don't want it to absolutely suck on the highway. The more information you guys can give me on these steering systems, the better. Thanks!

[Giviner]

I can't comment on the Currie system, other than say that many people on here run it and absolutely love it.

I run the RK steering and have no complaints about it. It is beefy as hell, the tie rod is solid 1.5" steel, and I could probably it as a tow point if I ever wanted to.....lol. The only potential issue is that it uses heim joints which tend not to have as long a life as TRE's. I've only had this setup for about 5 months so I can't comment on longevity.

[miguelitojeep97]

No one will argue will the currie syst. Especially for a DD.

Although I did bend the tie rod just a hair on its first trip out, I still trust it not to break.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by miguelitojeep97

No one will argue will the currie syst. Especially for a DD.
Although I did bend the tie rod just a hair on its first trip out, I still trust it not to break.

I don't think I've ever seen anyone running Currie's steering kit that wasn't totally happy with it, me included.

In speaking with John Currie about bending a tie rod, he commented they specifically designed the tie rod so while it is VERY strong and worthy of the toughest trails, it is also purposely made to bend before something else more critical like a tie rod end breaks. I've bent my Currie tie rod too but that was on an exceptionally difficult trail where I'd rather it bent than breaking something else.

[snowcrash]

Not to hijack but are those "high steering kits" or just newer stronger parts? I'm looking into getting a "high steering kit" and would like to know if thats what we are talking about lol.

Thx

[Jerry Bransford]

Just be aware that it's very difficult to design a high-steer kit that doesn't also introduce some degree of bump steer.

[miguelitojeep97]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

I don't think I've ever seen anyone running Currie's steering kit that wasn't totally happy with it, me included.

In speaking with John Currie about bending a tie rod, he commented they specifically designed the tie rod so while it is VERY strong and worthy of the toughest trails, it is also purposely made to bend before something else more critical like a tie rod end breaks. I've bent my Currie tie rod too but that was on an exceptionally difficult trail where I'd rather it bent than breaking something else.

totally agree... I mean I did bend it on Wreckingball in JV, and it did get me from San diego through a crazy trail and back home.... so it definitely did its job!

[odwaud]

I am really attracted to the Rock Krawler steering system because of extra akle droop and the massive strength. Would the heim joints be a problem as a DD?

[JeepinSoldier]

Of the two systems you are looking at, for a daily driver, I would go with the Currie, as long as it will work with any aftermarket diff cover that you may be using. The Currie would have contacted my BTF cover at full steering lock on either side.

I ran a RK gen II setup for a year. My 05 LJ Rubicon is also my daily driver. For a Jeep that spends more time off road on extreme trails the brute strength is problably worth it. I ran the tie rod full into a rock at Oak Ridge and it diddnt faze it at all, just scraped some paint.

The tie rod and drag link are literally solid. If you decide on this steering, you may want to consider a high performance steering pump and box as well from PSC or AGR.

However, for a Jeep that spends more time on the road, the weight of the solid RK steering components was stressing out my stock power steering pump, The steering felt heavier, and the heim joints were getting noisy. I did not like it on a daily driver. The gen 2 bracket design limited my turning radius. RK has since re designed the system with a misalignment joint that gives full turning radius.

I switched to the ORO U Turn and could not be happier. It's much stronger than stock and raises the tie rod a few inches, pushes the tie rod out so it clears my diff cover, uses greaseable tie rod ends, and the steering feel is better than stock. Especially the on center feel. No more 'dead' spot.

[onlyn8v]

I run the Currie on my TJ- Its mainly used on road (unfortunately) and it is prob the best piece of mind I have on my rig With that said I used it daily and it works great... It also clears my Riddler front cover with ease!

[Flatbroke]

I have the BTF and do not have any rubbing issues with my Currie steering at any point of articulation or steering lock.

[RedRubiconLJ]

I have currie and rockcrusher diff covers with no issues at all.

[JeepinSoldier]

Originally Posted by Flatbroke

I have the BTF and do not have any rubbing issues with my Currie steering at any point of articulation or steering lock.

You have a Sport with the front Dana 30? Mabe there is a difference between the 30 and the Rubi 44 covers. My stock steering hit the BTF cover. I assumed that the thicker Currie would have hit as well. Thats part of the reason that I initially went with the RK steering. The tie rod is bent so that its relocate outward for more clearance.

Again, the Currie has an excellent reputation and I prob would have went that way initially except for clearance. The ORO tierod is relocated outward from the diff cover as well.

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by JeepinSoldier

You have a Sport with the front Dana 30? Mabe there is a difference between the 30 and the Rubi 44 covers. My stock steering hit the BTF cover. I assumed that the thicker Currie would have hit as well. Thats part of the reason that I initially went with the RK steering. The tie rod is bent so that its relocate outward for more clearance.

Currie has been at this awhile. That means they're pretty aware that folks like to bolt big diff covers on. They added more bend at the tie rod connection on the draglink to push it a bit more forward for better clearance of diff covers, axles pushed too far forward, and the swaybar link mounts.

Again, the Currie has an excellent reputation and I prob would have went that way initially except for clearance. The ORO tierod is relocated outward from the diff cover as well.

It's likely you flattened out your stock draglink and that contributed to your clearance issues.

[grinwa]

I might have to be one of the first to be not totally happy with the currie. I have had it less than a year and have had to change out the end on the pitman arm once and it is poose again. I called them about it and they said it is designed for a 4" lift. I have about 3 1/2" but I guess that is not enough. I'm not too happy about spending the money for the upgraded system and then needing it spend $100 a year on new ends.