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Unread 11-27-2009, 02:16 PM   #1
vetdezracer
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Currie lower arms shorter than my old arms?

Im replacing my current Teraflex front short arms with Currie short arms. Currie recommends a lower arm length of 15 , the Tereflex arms Im taking out are 16. Everything was working well at 16, meaning road manners. Should I go with Curries recommendations or keep the front lowers at 16.

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Unread 11-27-2009, 03:03 PM   #2
ISurvivedNMU
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Take them out to 16"

Check out this thread started today

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/cu...bility-911378/
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Unread 11-27-2009, 04:05 PM   #3
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They are adjustable for a reason....make your own decision. You want to adjust the arms so that when at full bump, the rear tires are centered in the wheel well. So at ride height, they will be a little forward of center. Same with the front, only at ride height it will be a little back of center.
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Unread 11-27-2009, 04:55 PM   #4
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15.75" is stock length. 16" is good for a 3-4" lift.
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Unread 11-27-2009, 05:36 PM   #5
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Edited: didn't Did'nt want to hi jack your post. started new
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Unread 11-28-2009, 05:51 AM   #6
ISurvivedNMU
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Go ahead. I thank I was as suprised as you to get these and have such limitations. Especially after everyone here sings thier praises. Even Moderators. And he has not replied to either thread......
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Unread 11-28-2009, 06:56 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISurvivedNMU View Post
Go ahead. I thank I was as suprised as you to get these and have such limitations. Especially after everyone here sings thier praises. Even Moderators. And he has not replied to either thread......

HE may be on the road traveling back from visiting family (or wheeling) over the holidays.

Adjust them out to 16" as stated if you have a 4" lift, currie spec'd 15.75 as that is the stock measurement for direct replacement.
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Unread 11-28-2009, 07:09 AM   #8
ISurvivedNMU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportcoupe View Post
HE may be on the road traveling back from visiting family (or wheeling) over the holidays.

Adjust them out to 16" as stated if you have a 4" lift, currie spec'd 15.75 as that is the stock measurement for direct replacement.
If we are talking about the same guy, he has been on here alot this weekend.

I do not mean to attack the chosen one, but he has taken a different path latley in pushing certain vendors and being more os a salesman than a moderator.

Either way, Currie has some great arms, they just are not very adjustable. I can see why other comapnies use thier joints, but create thier own arms.
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Unread 11-28-2009, 08:53 AM   #9
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I don't see what the issue is, here are the instructions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Currie Enterprises
Check length of all control arms prior to installing. Compare the length of your existing control arms to the Currie Arms.

Measure the length from the center of the bolt to the center of the other bolt. This measurement can also be determined by measuring the overall length of the control arm and subtracting 2" for the upper arm and 2 " on the lower arm.

Currie Control Arms are preset for a T.J. with a 4" lift with a transfer case shaft kit and a CV driveshaft.

Front upper arms - 15"
Rear upper arms - 13 1/2"
All lower arms - 15 3/4"


When custom adjusting the arms you should not have any more than 3/4" of thread showing from beyond the jam nut. If you show more than this you should contact Currie Enterprises for a longer control arm.

The upper control arms are supplied with 7/16" bolts some of the existing brackets will need to be drilled out to accommodate this bolt. Torque the 7/16" bolt to 60 ft lbs.

Torque all 9/16" bolts to 90 ft lbs.

Grease all fittings with multi-purpose grease and grease regularly.

Check all jam nut on arms after 100 miles and regularly thereafter re-attach emergency brake cables to control arms with tie wraps discarding the original brackets. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable to allow for wheel travel.

NOTE 1: the rod ends are rebuild-able, contact Currie Enterprises for detail.

NOTE 2: the larger washers supplied in this set are for the front lower arms at the axle housing end disregard fro the rear lower set.

Many companies make their fixed length lower control arms on the long side (I know RE, Tera and Procomp do for a fact.) This pushes the axle forward and is the main reason we see all the "My track bar hits the diff cover" and "My Currie steering hits everything" threads.

You really only have two choices, install them as designed, or don't and get custom length arms then deal with the issues that may cause.

Try this, follow the directions and install them as designed, go for a drive, then post your thoughts. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
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Unread 11-28-2009, 09:36 AM   #10
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yup.....currie uses stock lengths on there 4" lift, BTDT. Rubicon Express goes a 1/4" longer on the lowers. As imped said it's about where the axle is when stuffed up into the fenders.

When I had my RE lift installed this past summer the tech didn't know how long to make the lowers as it's not stated in the RE instructions. He set them to Currie dimensions because he knew what they were. In my packet of paperwork I got back was a Currie installation sheet. I re-adjusted the lowers to the current 16" and used uppers for angles.
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Unread 11-28-2009, 02:16 PM   #11
vetdezracer
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Won’t setting them to 16” vs. 15 ” effect front end caster. This is what prompted me to second guess what the Currie instructions state vs. what was coming out.

Does anyone know what the logic behind some companies recommending different length front lower control arms is? Is there a benefit to the extra ”?
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Unread 11-28-2009, 03:10 PM   #12
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Use the lowers to set the wheelbase. If you have adjustable uppers, then use those independently to adjust pinion/caster up front and the rear pinion angle. If you have factor uppers, then those are fixed. You will need to set the lowers to give you a good combination of decent wheelbase and correct caster/pinion. That's why I wouldn't bother with only adjustable lowers. Either go all out, none at all, or adjustable uppers only. Lastly, 1/4" on the lowers will not make a large enough dent in the caster/pinion angle to disrupt anything. I wouldn't worry about that in the slightest. You want to set the lowers so that, when stuffed, the tires are centered in the wells. Once you have that set, then mess with the uppers. Obviously the uppers effect the pinion angles on both ends and the front caster, which is inversely related to the pinion angle (one goes up, the other goes down). Adjusting one will adjust the other so you will need to find a good balance. Generally, pinion angle takes precendence but that can be argued depending on your axle, tire, lift height, etc.
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Unread 11-28-2009, 03:38 PM   #13
ISurvivedNMU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Humboldt View Post
I don't see what the issue is, here are the instructions.




Many companies make their fixed length lower control arms on the long side (I know RE, Tera and Procomp do for a fact.) This pushes the axle forward and is the main reason we see all the "My track bar hits the diff cover" and "My Currie steering hits everything" threads.

You really only have two choices, install them as designed, or don't and get custom length arms then deal with the issues that may cause.

Try this, follow the directions and install them as designed, go for a drive, then post your thoughts. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.
I see that you run RE arms..... Thanks for the advise. I ran RE arms prior to these.

My issue is not with the lowers.

So, as suggested, I set all the arms to the legnth Currie suggested. I then noticed my loweres (RE) were longer by 1/4 inch. No biggie, I adjusted the lowers out 1/4. Still well within specs. Installed the lowers. I was thrilled. I was disapointed in the uppers. The rear uppers need to be longer than the Currie spec will let them out. For me, I need about 3/4 inches maybe a touch more over curries max specs. That to me sucks. As stated, I need the uppers to adjust for caster and for the driveshaft. I cannot get things to line up AND stay within Curries spec. If I drove my jeep with the above legnths, I would tear up my rear drive shaft.

It bothers me to spend big money on these and have the arms designed for use on a stock jeep. I think they should tell people when they buy these adjustable arms that they are only able to adjust from x to x. I would have looked to another company to achive my goals.

Everything on my jeep that is Currie works great with no issues and a lot of my jeep runs Currie parts. I am disappointed in the adjustability of the Upper Control Arms that I feel should se more adjustable for people who run lifts and want adjustability. Currie basically send you the arms set to max legnth, and they are set at the legnth posted above in the instructions. I would rather see those as the minimum they will adjust to since only a stock jeep would need less than that. These arms leave NO adjustment for any other "custom" parts like a tummy tuck or the ability to run more than 5 degrees of caster.
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Unread 11-28-2009, 06:10 PM   #14
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As I told you earlier.....CALL CURRIE. This is not a Currie issue, but rather a difference between your needs and their specs. I'm willing to bet they'll work with you.
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Unread 12-03-2009, 07:30 PM   #15
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Ever get this figured out? Im interested to know.
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