Currie lift kit - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
csmith
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Currie lift kit

I ordered a RE Super flex 3.5 kit for my jeep back in December, however, RE is currently having a back log on shipping and I haven't received it yet. I was thinking about switching to another SA lift but can't decide what is comparable to the RE. I've tried to research Currie but haven't been able to locate much on their lift kits. My question: Anyone using the Currie with 33 or 35"s? ( I have 33"s now but will be upgrading this summer to the 35"s)

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post #2 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 03:51 PM
EdinMN
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Go to Savvy Off Road
Currie 4 inch lift, says good for 35's with one inch body lift.
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post #3 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
csmith
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How does the Currie performance compare to the RE? I know the Currie costs more but is the extra money worth it? If not, what other kit is comparable in performance and cost to the RE? Thanks,
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post #4 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:00 PM
Fropleyqk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith View Post
I've tried to research Currie but haven't been able to locate much on their lift kits.
We need a BS flag smiley thing. Where did you look? Did you use your computer at all? OK, ok, I kid...

Search this forum. Currie kits and parts are probably the most talked about tech here. Currie is a nice step up from RE. As recommended above, get with Gerald at Savvy.
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post #5 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:01 PM
TJRoberto
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its a great lift kit. starting with the JJ adjustable arms.
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post #6 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:01 PM
dcope17
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Currie doesn't make a cheap kit and a good kit... just one. Anything with Currie written on it is quality.

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post #7 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:05 PM
Imped
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Currie is heads and shoulders above RE. You'll be thanking RE for their production delays.

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post #8 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:06 PM
ytowntj
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Every component in the Currie kit is better than RE to my knowledge. Call up
Gerald at Savvy offroad and he can walk you through why each component is better.

The 4" progressive coils are possibly the best riding spring made other than AEV 3" ones.

The Antirock is legions better than discos, and yes your jeep is still stable onroad. It even handles bumps a bit better IMO.

The Johnny Joint arms are far more durable than the superflex joints RE uses.

Curries bump stop kit is one of the nicest Ive installed. It doesnt feel like a piece of recycled and compressed trash bag like REs

Its pricey comparatively, but when is the last time you heard someone say, I just got Superflex joints for my rear 4link build ?

Currie is basically the top of the line for bolt on lifts.

I havent ever installed one of their kits, only the components of the kits on various vehicles. Currie springs rock. Johnny Joints rock. Antirocks...well rock.
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post #9 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
csmith
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Maybe that's the problem, I think I have search overload now. I just want to spend my money wisely, I have learned the hard way that trying to build a lift kit piece by piece was a HUGE mistake. Thanks for the info
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post #10 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:26 PM
Ironwind1972
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Go with the Currie, It costs more and needs a few things over the RE express Super Flex, but is one of the best short arms on the market. I'm running one and never looked back. Make sure you order a rear adjustable track bar, the rear track bar bracket that comes with the kit is designed for a Johnny Joint adjustable track bar that matches your adjusted rear pinion angle (as to Currie specs in use with a SYE). Of course you'll need the SYE and CV driveshaft, a TC lowering kit will not work with the Currie bracket without binding your rear track bar, see above. Also you'll need longer shocks, and extended front brake lines to make the kit complete. The only small complaint I have about the Currie lift, is their weak grease zerts. The grease tends to back out of the fitting, I'll be replacing mine with HD ones this spring.
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post #11 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
csmith
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Thank's a lot, thats the kind of info I was looking for. I already have the sye/driveshaft and new ome shocks ready to install in my garage, now I just need to decide on the lift. Will I need rear shock relocaters with the Currie lift?
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post #12 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:47 PM
ytowntj
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I cant speak for the currie lift, but with currie arms and 2.5RC springs you need them. I would imagine you would need the for their kit even more.
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post #13 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwind1972 View Post
The only small complaint I have about the Currie lift, is their weak grease zerts. The grease tends to back out of the fitting, I'll be replacing mine with HD ones this spring.
This might be a stupid question so sorry, If the zergs come out prior to putting the lift on could you use some red lock tite to secure them? And to the OP I was going to buy a cheap kit but as members have already stated never hear any complaints about a Currie Kit. I was going to get the Full Traction lift but changed my mind. It did set me back on my lift till probably september of this year but I'm confident it will be worth the wait to save up the extra $$$$$.

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post #14 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironwind1972 View Post
The grease tends to back out of the fitting, I'll be replacing mine with HD ones this spring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by deerassassin22 View Post
This might be a stupid question so sorry, If the zergs come out prior to putting the lift on could you use some red lock tite to secure them?
Read it again...
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post #15 of 26 Old 02-07-2011, 10:59 PM
Ironwind1972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csmith View Post
Thank's a lot, thats the kind of info I was looking for. I already have the sye/driveshaft and new ome shocks ready to install in my garage, now I just need to decide on the lift. Will I need rear shock relocaters with the Currie lift?
Not at all. Everything is bolt on, minus some tap and die work. Can't remember the drill size for one of the holes to tap, but I had to go to 5 different places to find it, so you might find out before you get started. Also, the front track bar takes a 5/8" drill bit, pricey at stores, if you don't already have one. Get some drill lubricant or PB blaster, because it takes a bit of work to drill out your front upper control arm bushings (axle) to allow for the heavier bolts. Hope this helps.
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