Currie Correctlync Installation -

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post #1 of 6 Old 02-28-2010, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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Currie Correctlync Installation

Installation of a Currie CorrectLync steering upgrade on a 2005 Tj on 33's...

After a recent outing to a local trail system the drive home told me something was steering oscillated rhythmically & violently when I hit a pot hole. I found that if I let off the skinny pedal the wobble would ease up and ultimately disappear. As time went on it would happen more and more often. Over the next two or three months it go so bad that at between 30 & 45 mph, even the slightest bump in the road would send me to the shoulder of the road. This was becoming dangerous as often times there was no shoulder but, there was plenty of traffic behind was time to install the Currie system I bought several weeks prior. I should say that...

Shortly after the initial drive home from the trail, I e-mailed Stu Olson and described my situation & symptoms. His first reaction was that I'd bent a tie rod and as much as I wanted to spend my money to get locked up, the steering was going to impose itself on my locker schedule...I bit the bullet and bought the Currie system.

Stu's site ( has a great write-up on the installation. Now I'm not experienced doing mechanical work on Jeeps so I studied Stu's write up and got myself prepared.

I blocked the rear wheels, jacked her up and put jack stands under the frame just behind the front control arm brackets. With the tires/wheels removed I started to disassemble the existing steering components.

The only somewhat difficult part of the whole thing was the removal of the bolt from the bottom of the pitman arm. Take particular notice of the 3td and 4th picture. The 3td picture shows the puller on the pitman arm bolt. To get an extension into the puller to pop the bolt at the pitman arm, I had to turn my wheels to the drivers side almost fully. This positioned the pitman arm so that I could get an extension down from the top between the sway bar and the grill as shown in the 4th picture. After that it was a simple procedure to pop the bolt and I was soon ready to start the installation of the new stuff.

By the way, on one site I read that it should only take about 45 minutes to do the install. That maybe so, but, by the time I got the toe-in done (per Stu's site) a little more than 4-1/2 hours had passed...aligning the steering wheel took another 1/2 hour or so. Then the clean up...

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Last edited by RaggedOleMan; 03-01-2010 at 12:37 AM.
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-01-2010, 12:03 AM Thread Starter
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Steering stop Adjustment

Okay, so I got carried away with the grease...look beyond that for a minute and see the new washers (3x) below on the steering stop? I had to this because there was a bit of a conflict/rub on the passenger side with the sway bar link mounting point when the steering was turned full/hard passenger. The three washers solved the problem...

Also, I have a see the castle nut with the new cotter pin in it? Well, torqued down to 55 lbs the castle nut ended up below the hole for the cotter pin, on the driver and passenger side! Could it have been drilled incorrectly? Not sure If I did something wrong or not. I thought about backing off the bolt such that the pin would be doing it's job better, but, that would mean virtually no torque on the bolt. So, I left it as is. That said...

As I think back on the installation I remember I torqued the bolts down well beyond the 55 lbs by mistake. Not sure how much, but I know it was a bit...It was my first time using the torque wrench...I knew it didn't feel right so I backed off the castle nut, and used the Harbor Freight tie rod puller and started the torque procedure over again. This time I was confident/comfortable that I did it correctly-55 lbs, but, the cotter pin hole was way above the top of the castle nut.

So, what happened? Did I f-up?
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Last edited by RaggedOleMan; 03-01-2010 at 12:33 AM.
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post #3 of 6 Old 03-01-2010, 12:23 AM
want it rite or rite now?
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wrong tapper on the TRE or the tapper in the knuckle had been compromised at one time by a loose TRE?
I've put a few Currie links on and haven't run into that so far.

I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable

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post #4 of 6 Old 03-01-2010, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
wrong tapper on the TRE or the tapper in the knuckle had been compromised at one time by a loose TRE?
I've put a few Currie links on and haven't run into that so far.
So should I expect any trouble from it? You know, the "compromise" you're talking about has probably been in the works for a while because I've got 113k on it. Running open is hard on it when I'm on the trails. Could that have contributed?

Also, I bought a JKS front adjustable track bar months ago but haven't installed it yet. I was going to do the install when I did the Currie, but, I figured that if I did something wrong in the installation of the Currie I wanted to be able to isolate the problem easier, so I decided to do the track bar in a week or two. Anyway...that said, I see in your signature that you've got an opinion or two on front track bars. What's up?
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-03-2010, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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It's been on it for a few days now and after about 300 miles I can tell you I'm really impressed... The front end feels tight, stable, solid. The thing feels/drives like new with 113k on a cat on carpet! I suspect it's going to hold up a heck-of a lot better to the abuse of the trails, too.

A special thanks to Stu Olson for his outstanding write up. The link to his website in in my signature below. Thank you, Stu.

Tacoma, WA

Last edited by RaggedOleMan; 03-06-2010 at 02:58 AM.
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-31-2011, 07:15 PM
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