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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:01 PM   #1
Boundless
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Currie control arms installed : )

Let me start by thanking the gang here at JF for leading me in the RIGHT direction. I had been researching control arms for quite some time and finally settled on Currie control arms.

I ordered a set for the front from Savvy (those guys rock ) last week and received them today. Just picking up the box tells you, this is serious beef. I couldn't wait to open the box and see the goodies. Wow they look awesome just sitting there on the bench. I am really glad I received a black set as opposed the the new gold. I won't bore you with the install.

Results; 1st noticed the difference as I pulled out of my drive way... nice and tight. Even when turning on the road you can feel how tight the front is now and I don't mean tight in a bad way. The way these arms locate the axle they allow the springs and shocks to do their job.

Taking it up to 55MPH, where I used to have a slight wobble since 15k miles, I have 60k now, this wobble had become Death Wobble at times until I masked it some what with a new HD steering stabilizer. Well as I speed up 50, 51, 52... 55, 56 ,57... 60+ NOTHING no wobble not even a hint

Returning from my test drive I run the two right wheels off the pavement and the front end feels like it should... no loosens, no flutter and no sloppiness of the front end. These control arms keep everything moving in a controlled manor like they should. I felt the difference just driving on smooth roads.

I even took a few hard turns and I quickly fell deeper in love with the way my Jeep now response.
I can't wait to flex these out and run some dirt roads

Wrapping this up, all I can say is DO IT get Currie control arms. Call Savvy NOW, don't put it off any longer. If you want to drive my Jeep to see for yourself be my guest.

Again thanks especially to you guys that put up with all my questions and helped me so much



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2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:39 PM   #2
tcoche
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very nice! congrats. How was the install?? It doesnt bore me. Thats the exciting part?? Where are the pics...come on boundless!!

also, do you plan on getting the rears anytime soon??
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Unread 10-11-2010, 09:48 PM   #3
Boundless
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcoche View Post
very nice! congrats. How was the install?? It doesnt bore me. Thats the exciting part?? Where are the pics...come on boundless!!

also, do you plan on getting the rears anytime soon??
ok ok you got me... it got dark on me so I will take pics tomorrow when I finish up the alignment and post them.

The install went well, thanks to all the good advise. Took me about 2.5 hours by myself.

YES I will replace the rears with Currie's also and outboard the shocks and relocate upper spring buckets at the same time. little by little
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Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 10-11-2010, 10:17 PM   #4
JJeeper09
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lucky duck!!! did you have a chart on what to adjust at first before fine adjustments?
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Unread 10-11-2010, 10:23 PM   #5
breckboarder55
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Nice. Did you adjust the length by measurement or by using a bob to square the axle?
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Unread 10-11-2010, 10:34 PM   #6
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Rusty,

Thanks for the props! Let's see the Jeep!

Gerald
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Unread 10-12-2010, 06:29 AM   #7
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Awesome! They're definitely in my future. Around how much did they set you back, if you don't mind my asking?
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Unread 10-12-2010, 06:38 AM   #8
Boundless
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Originally Posted by vanillathrilla View Post
Awesome! They're definitely in my future. Around how much did they set you back, if you don't mind my asking?
Thanks
Gerald from Savvy gave me a smoking deal and I am sure he'll do the same for you. contact him his post is just above yours.

Currie control arms may seem expensive but when you consider all the benefits, it turns out to be an AWESOME value

Here's Savvy's link to the control arms, check it out and then contact Gerald, you won't be disapointed. Suspension - Savvy Off Road Aluminum
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Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 10-12-2010, 08:41 AM   #9
MountainMan864
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Did you get the front housing kit as well or leave it alone? I have terrible death wobble now and im hoping if I pony up the cash my DW will be gone. I priced it out and the front arms comes to like $450 with the 10%discount and shipping. shipping charges will vary of course though.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 08:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by breckboarder55 View Post
Nice. Did you adjust the length by measurement or by using a bob to square the axle?
All it takes is measuring the length of the old arms and setting the new arm length the same. At least that is a good starting point from which you can start fiddling with their lengths to adjust things like pinion and caster angles. Once you have the length set and they are the same on both sides, then all you have to do is make sure from then on that if you unscrew one side one turn to make it longer, for example, just unscrew the other side that same one turn to keep the axle square.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 09:18 AM   #11
Boundless
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Originally Posted by MountainMan864 View Post
Did you get the front housing kit as well or leave it alone? I have terrible death wobble now and I'm hoping if I pony up the cash my DW will be gone. I priced it out and the front arms comes to like $450 with the 10%discount and shipping. shipping charges will vary of course though.

No I did not get or install the front housing kit (yet), because I have a HP30 that I will be swapping in and it will have the housing kit

I too had a DW always lurking ready to show its ugliness, my stock lower control arm bushings were not that bad (I'll post some pics later) but totally unable to control the front axle with my 33" tires and 3" lift.

There may be a lot of things that can be done to mask DW or temporarily put off its recurrence, but I can tell you that there is nothing short of locating/securing the front axle that will solve DW for good, its really is that simple. So if you can afford it now... DO IT replace the arms and track bar if need and you will not regret it.

My alignment is off cause I have not yet adjusted it and there is no DW not even a hint...

And to add to my OP I feel less road vibrations now then with my stock arms, so the comments about needing rubber to isolate vibration, I'm not sure where that may come into play, surly not in my case.

Now that I have light again I am going to recheck everything and tweak anything thats needed.
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Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 10-12-2010, 11:13 AM   #12
Boundless
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More pics as promised

Notice in the below pic the lower control arm (3rd from the left) is the worst bushing I had. Tops actually looked good


Here is a shot of my pinion angle... looks like I might be able to squeeze out just a little more caster.


And a couple suspension shots from the front and from the rear. Oh and yes my pinion seal is seeping, but I have a HP30 to swap in when its done.

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Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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Unread 10-12-2010, 09:35 PM   #13
tw_jeep
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Boundless -

may be a stupid question, but what is/was wrong with the rubber bushings in your pic? I dont see any cracking or separation in the rubber.....

Thanks...
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Unread 10-12-2010, 09:38 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by twichers View Post
I dont see any cracking or separation in the rubber.....
That doesn't mean it's capable of keeping the axle rigidly constrained. IMO, with anything over stockish tires, they aren't up to the task.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 10:44 PM   #15
Boundless
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
That doesn't mean it's capable of keeping the axle rigidly constrained. IMO, with anything over stockish tires, they aren't up to the task.
x2, oh and thank you Imped, you were a big help
Quote:
Originally Posted by twichers View Post
Boundless -

may be a stupid question, but what is/was wrong with the rubber bushings in your pic? I dont see any cracking or separation in the rubber.....

Thanks...
Not a stupid question at all, here is my attempt to explaine it (from another post of mine in a thread about DW)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boundless View Post
most things (not all) done to stop DW are like a cough suppressant, you stop coughing but the reason you coughed is still there... you're not cured yet.

Yes you stopped the wobble with new tires, but ask yourself what allowed the front end to move like that?

I am not a Doctor by no means, but worked with and learned enough the hard way to know that the stock bushings are not up to the task of holding the front axle secure (the sickness) when faced with the leverage of larger tires (the tickle in the throat) and at the link angles caused by lifts (the weak immune system). So as soon as something is not perfect the cough will return and it may not as long as there is no tickle.

Well that's my way of explaining the plague death wobble.
so even if the stock bushing are not bad, they still are not designed to handle the task we throw at them. Throw in the fact we over flex our suspensions much farther than stock, its a wonder the stock bushing hold up at all.
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Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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