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Unread 10-12-2010, 03:10 PM   #61
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Giving uppers or lowers the title or job of "wheelbase" or "pinion angle" will confuse people. If you lengthen the front uppers, that will rotate the pinion up, which will lower the caster, which will slightly decrease the wheelbase. If you lengthen the front lowers, that will rotate the housing the other way--extend wheelbase, lower pinion angle, and increase caster angle. The same goes for the rear, except there is no caster angle in the rear. All control arms are are links that locate and constrain the axle. Neither the upper or lower links do only one thing....if you push the rear axle back by lengthening the lowers, you'll also lower the pinion so you'll need to extend the uppers to compensate. This isn't a difficult concept to understand if you just think about it in a logical way. And there is no formula for control arm length for xx height. Other factors, such as wheelbase, desired pinion angle/caster, and up travel factor in. Just get down there and start messing with them. As long as you stay consistent with the arm lengths, you won't mess anything up.

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Unread 10-13-2010, 12:06 PM   #62
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Question for clarification and please feel free to correct where needed.

All 3 (front caster, front pinion, and rear pinion) are calculated at ride height, correct? For the front the 2 constraints are pinion angle and caster angle (trying to balance a good pinion angle with as high of caster attainable ). In the rear is constraints are rear pinion and clearances to gas tank. For both front and rear another things to watch are, tire location at full stuff in wheel well, and track bar interferences.

Sounds stupid but I want to best understand this before the trial and error happens.

Also, is it easier/harder/indifferent to change CA lengths with coils and shocks installed?
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Unread 01-04-2011, 02:00 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
No you don't care what the length is, all you care about is that both control arm bushings have the same tension on them so you aren't preloading them so they fight each other which will cause them to wear prematurely.
This just saved my day!
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Unread 05-01-2011, 02:40 PM   #64
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In the process of installing the Currie LCA (Front). Can somebody tell me where the extra large washer goes? Wheel side, diff side? Inside, outside smaller washer?

Any help is appreciated
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Unread 05-02-2011, 06:17 AM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deron1 View Post
In the process of installing the Currie LCA (Front). Can somebody tell me where the extra large washer goes? Wheel side, diff side? Inside, outside smaller washer?

Any help is appreciated
It goes on the inside (diff side) of the axle LCA mount, directly against the mount. It should fit snugly into a slotted recess that you will see there (which is part of the factory control arm alignment mechanism.)
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Unread 05-06-2011, 06:08 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZJeepNewbie View Post
It goes on the inside (diff side) of the axle LCA mount, directly against the mount. It should fit snugly into a slotted recess that you will see there (which is part of the factory control arm alignment mechanism.)
Got a pic of that washer location?
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Unread 05-06-2011, 06:14 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CsKWarEd

Got a pic of that washer location?
Its not that hard. There should be a horseshoe on the mount (for cam bolts). The big washer should fit snugly into that horseshoe to keep things from moving around.
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Unread 05-06-2011, 06:20 PM   #68
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I understand that part, but there are 4 additional washers supplied, on top of the 2 washers per bolt.
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Unread 05-06-2011, 06:25 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CsKWarEd
I understand that part, but there are 4 additional washers supplied, on top of the 2 washers per bolt.
Those are extra. Curries lowers fit both front and rear. The big washers not necessary in rear so you use the small ones instead. The hardware that goes into the pack is enough to work for either application.
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Unread 05-06-2011, 09:22 PM   #70
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Thanks for your help, they weren't noted as extra, but that makes sense for them being interchangeable between front and back.
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Unread 09-03-2011, 06:46 PM   #71
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Control arms on uninstalled axles

Can you install the control arms on a axle that was not previously on the Jeep before actually installing the axle? In other words I will be putting in new axles but want to get some of the work done before taking the old ones out and putting the new ones in to save on time.
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Unread 09-03-2011, 09:05 PM   #72
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One at a time with tires on the ground.A DEEP socket set w/ breaker bar,box wrenches.Use your bottle jack under breaker bar to break lose tight nuts .
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Unread 06-16-2012, 11:06 AM   #73
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gonna revive this old thread...lotta good info here.

I'm finally at the point that I can do this much needed upgrade and was looking at the Savvy site and noticed they now have aluminum Curries. Is there any trade-offs to these or are they every bit as stout as the steel ones? Also, did I read correctly that all the uppers are now aluminum?

Does anyone here have any personal experience with the aluminum ones?

TIA...Mark
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Unread 06-18-2012, 07:24 AM   #74
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You can still get steel arms if you wish. There are no real drawbacks to using the aluminum arms from Savvy; the nice thing about them is they are all double adjustable, which makes adjusting your pinion angle/placing the axle very easy and fast. I've had them for a while now and they've been great. I've drug them across rocks more than a few times without any issues.
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Unread 08-21-2012, 04:34 PM   #75
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I'm going to keep this thread alive with a question on installing the currie upper control arms... What size drill bit do you use on installing the 7/16 bolts to the axle... Is it difficult drilling out those sleeves?
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