Currie Control Arms Install tips - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 89 Old 10-03-2010, 10:54 PM
mrblaine
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Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
Because its what they read online! Maybe its because they are cheaper? Maybe their new lift kit came with fixed lowers so they replace "last" bit of factory stuff to fix their problem.
I just finished a lift install today that was a take-off done by a shop with all preset control arm lengths.

When I got through levelling the rig, squaring up the axles and centering them, I had to lengthen the driver's side upper front by almost 3/8" to get the bolt in with the other side loose.

Funny thing though, I had to adjust both trackbars considerably to center the axles.


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post #47 of 89 Old 10-04-2010, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
I just finished a lift install today that was a take-off done by a shop with all preset control arm lengths.

When I got through levelling the rig, squaring up the axles and centering them, I had to lengthen the driver's side upper front by almost 3/8" to get the bolt in with the other side loose.

Funny thing though, I had to adjust both trackbars considerably to center the axles.
with the JJ housing kit on my jeep, my upper fronts are different by about 1/4 inch. the passenger side is longer, i guess i should have paid closer attention when i had it welded in. Thing is i would have had to mill off quite a bit off the currie piece to get it right.
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post #48 of 89 Old 10-06-2010, 08:19 AM
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Two questions while I am waiting on my front upper and lower Currie CA's to show up and start the install.

1) My front axle is off center (toward pass side) by less than a .25" I have the stock track bar (but upgraded XJ bushing) and the axle side hole repositioned. I dared not drill it any closer to the stock hole. How do I set up the control arms if I can only square up the axle and can't center it at ride hight? I am thinking that because the LCAs are not parallel the arms will have to be different lengths in order to keep it square to the frame.

2) Can someone elaborate on the drilling needed for the new bolts? I want to be ready if I need to find some drill bit or round file.

__________________________________________
Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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post #49 of 89 Old 10-06-2010, 09:37 PM
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Adjustable front trackbar will do you wonders. The drilling of the bolt holes I believe are 9/16s. The bit needs to be around 6-8 in long. Not a hard thing to find, dewalt makes a decent metal bit for 9 bucks. Anything else you would like to know?
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post #50 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 06:16 AM
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What is the limit for the amount of threads (inches) the JJ can be adjusted out? I know I read it somewhere but can't find it.

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post #51 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 06:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWilson View Post
What is the limit for the amount of threads (inches) the JJ can be adjusted out? I know I read it somewhere but can't find it.
Here's the link to Currie Rock http://www.currieenterprises.com/instruction_sheets/currie_control_arms.html

My CA should be here today

Instructions:

Check length of all control arms prior to installing. Compare the length of your existing control arms to the Currie Arms.

Measure the length from the center of the bolt to the center of the other bolt. This measurement can also be determined by measuring the overall length of the control arm and subtracting 2" for the upper arm and 2 " on the lower arm.

Currie Control Arms are preset for a T.J. with a 4" lift with a transfer case shaft kit and a CV driveshaft.

Front upper arms - 15"
Rear upper arms - 13 1/2"
All lower arms - 15 3/4"

When custom adjusting the arms you should not have any more than 3/4" of thread showing from beyond the jam nut. If you show more than this you should contact Currie Enterprises for a longer control arm.

The upper control arms are supplied with 7/16" bolts some of the existing brackets will need to be drilled out to accommodate this bolt. Torque the 7/16" bolt to 60 ft lbs.

Torque all 9/16" bolts to 90 ft lbs.

Grease all fittings with multi-purpose grease and grease regularly.

Check all jam nut on arms after 100 miles and regularly thereafter re-attach emergency brake cables to control arms with tie wraps discarding the original brackets. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable to allow for wheel travel.

NOTE 1: the rod ends are rebuild-able, contact Currie Enterprises for detail.

NOTE 2: the larger washers supplied in this set are for the front lower arms at the axle housing end disregard fro the rear lower set.

__________________________________________
Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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post #52 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boundless View Post
Two questions while I am waiting on my front upper and lower Currie CA's to show up and start the install.

1) My front axle is off center (toward pass side) by less than a .25" I have the stock track bar (but upgraded XJ bushing) and the axle side hole repositioned. I dared not drill it any closer to the stock hole. How do I set up the control arms if I can only square up the axle and can't center it at ride hight? I am thinking that because the LCAs are not parallel the arms will have to be different lengths in order to keep it square to the frame.

2) Can someone elaborate on the drilling needed for the new bolts? I want to be ready if I need to find some drill bit or round file.
A little help please

Not sure yet on answer for question "1" and yes I understand an adjustable trac bar would help, but what if I don't have one and can't get one yet?

My CA should be here today and I may be installing them tonight or tomorrow

__________________________________________
Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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post #53 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 08:37 AM
Unlimited04
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you don't want to center the axle at ride height. you want to center it at full bump...or at least push it as far towards a longer wheelbase as you can without creating interferences with tires, fenders, linkages, suspensions, etc, all while the bumpstops make good contact with the pads. You do this by removing the springs & track bar and cycling the axle.

If you can't do all that, you need to take some careful measurements and do a best guess. Then drive the snot out of the jeep, and try to create those interferences in driving/flexing situations and look for evidence of issues. Takes a lot longer to fine tune...but can be done.
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post #54 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
you don't want to center the axle at ride height. you want to center it at full bump...or at least push it as far towards a longer wheelbase as you can without creating interferences with tires, fenders, linkages, suspensions, etc, all while the bumpstops make good contact with the pads. You do this by removing the springs & track bar and cycling the axle.

If you can't do all that, you need to take some careful measurements and do a best guess. Then drive the snot out of the jeep, and try to create those interferences in driving/flexing situations and look for evidence of issues. Takes a lot longer to fine tune...but can be done.
I may have mis-read his post, but I think he's actually refering to centering the axle side-to-side, not front to back.

If the axle is within 1/4" of being perfectly center, that ought to be fine? I know plenty of people run the 2" budget boost kits using the stock control arms and track bar - that'll put your axle a little off-center a little, but not enough to be a problem. I currently have 2" longer springs on my Dodge 2500(similar suspension geometry to the TJ), with stock control arms and trackbar. I know the axle is offcenter by about 0.25" - and it's been that way for about 4 yrs/50k miles with no problems. Just make sure you get an alignment.

Anyway, I'd suggest setting the front lowers to the exact same length (using currie's recommended length), get a proper front alignment, and you should be all set.

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post #55 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
you don't want to center the axle at ride height. you want to center it at full bump...or at least push it as far toward a longer wheelbase as you can without creating interferences with tires, fenders, linkages, suspensions, etc, all while the bump-stops make good contact with the pads. You do this by removing the springs & track bar and cycling the axle.

If you can't do all that, you need to take some careful measurements and do a best guess. Then drive the snot out of the jeep, and try to create those interferences in driving/flexing situations and look for evidence of issues. Takes a lot longer to fine tune...but can be done.
ok this is making sense, sort of, thanks.

Make all CA adjustments to fit with axle centered and square with springs out and track bar disconnected and at full bump. And of course pinion angle set and no interference when axle is cycled.

Full bump or ride height the two can't be that far off with only a 3" lift, should I split the difference?

__________________________________________
Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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post #56 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
you don't want to center the axle at ride height. you want to center it at full bump...or at least push it as far towards a longer wheelbase as you can without creating interferences with tires, fenders, linkages, suspensions, etc, all while the bumpstops make good contact with the pads. You do this by removing the springs & track bar and cycling the axle.

If you can't do all that, you need to take some careful measurements and do a best guess. Then drive the snot out of the jeep, and try to create those interferences in driving/flexing situations and look for evidence of issues. Takes a lot longer to fine tune...but can be done.
Which would you do first?

Center Axle at full bump

or

Set Pinion Angle

2006 LJ Rubi JKS BL/MML, Curries Arms, 3", UCF Skids, Riddler, 35 GY MTR W/K, Black Rock 909's, Black Magic, Rokmen Sliders, Savvy GTS, Cloaked, 4.88

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post #57 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Boundless View Post
Full bump or ride height the two can't be that far off with only a 3" lift, should I split the difference?
Set caster up front and set pinion angle in the rear. start with stock length lowers in the rear and 16" in front. Adjust from there as necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWilson View Post
Which would you do first?

Center Axle at full bump

or

Set Pinion Angle
I would set rear pinion angle at ride height & 5.5-6 deg caster in front, pull the springs and check axle at bump, then recheck rear pinion angle at ride height once you get springs in...if you have to change anything.

If you keep the lowers at stock length in the rear, and dial in your caster up front, you won't have too much adjustment to do...for 33s. 35s will need a bit more playing around.

To center the axle with the track bars, do it at right height with the springs in and Jeep on the tires. bounce the jeep a bunch of times, install trackbar. adjust track bar till holes line up. bounce jeep a bunch of times once track bar is installed. check tires are centered to frame. repeat as necessary. done.

I did my axles the hard way w/o a floor jack with enough travel...kinda did it trial and error & checking flex...lots of track bar interference issues...took months to figure out.
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post #58 of 89 Old 10-11-2010, 08:04 PM
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WOW I love these Currie control arms! check out my results http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/cu.../#post10267438

__________________________________________
Rusty
Satellite Bch, FL
2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (LJ) 6cyl, 4spd auto, dana 30/44 3.73, rear trac-loc, hard top, BFG KM2 35/12.5 x 15 on rattle can black stock Ravine wheels & 1.5" spacers, trimmed flares, budget PA 1" BL & RC 1" MML, Ford Explorer roof rack, Hella e-code headlight housings, 55 watt DDM HID Hi/Lo 6000k, EBC Yellow Stuff front brake pads, Platinum P4 battery, Rusty's 3" 305s front and 303s rear springs, RC rear track bar bracket and Hella 500FFs with DDM's 55watt 6000k H3 HIDs on windshield hinge brackets. Currie's front upper and lower control arms. Hummm whats next? Building a Dana HP30 with 4.88 and ? locker
http://www.canddautocenter.com/
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post #59 of 89 Old 10-12-2010, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Unlimited04 View Post
Set caster up front and set pinion angle in the rear. start with stock length lowers in the rear and 16" in front. Adjust from there as necessary.



I would set rear pinion angle at ride height & 5.5-6 deg caster in front, pull the springs and check axle at bump, then recheck rear pinion angle at ride height once you get springs in...if you have to change anything.

If you keep the lowers at stock length in the rear, and dial in your caster up front, you won't have too much adjustment to do...for 33s. 35s will need a bit more playing around.

To center the axle with the track bars, do it at right height with the springs in and Jeep on the tires. bounce the jeep a bunch of times, install trackbar. adjust track bar till holes line up. bounce jeep a bunch of times once track bar is installed. check tires are centered to frame. repeat as necessary. done.

I did my axles the hard way w/o a floor jack with enough travel...kinda did it trial and error & checking flex...lots of track bar interference issues...took months to figure out.
So you set caster up front by changing the lowers. And you set pinion in the rear with the uppers. Then you check the wheel centered in wheel well. Is that correct?

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www.stu-offroad.com
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post #60 of 89 Old 10-12-2010, 02:55 PM
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So you set caster up front by changing the lowers. And you set pinion in the rear with the uppers. Then you check the wheel centered in wheel well. Is that correct?
Yes, its a good starting point. You might need to move uppers or lowers in the rear, depending on your application, lift height, tire size, etc.

On the front there is really no reason to lengthen the uppers unless you're trying to squeeze out an extra 1/2" of wheelbase, but are happy with the existing caster. In fact in the front its actually beneficial in some cases to shorten the uppers. On the rear, sometimes you need to shorten the lowers to clear the gas tank skid + fat diff cover, or the tires at the rear end of the wheelwell. or you can cut some sheet metal off the wheelwell.
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