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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:19 PM   #31
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Already have it on the ground, the new uppers are the exact same length as the stock.

I need to pull the pinion down to get the axle to rotate, maybe I should pull the other upper out as well?

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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:25 PM   #32
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You'd think if it was the same length, it wouldn't matter if the other old arm was still in. You can certainly remove it, put in a new arm, then fine tune the length of the other side so that the bolt lines up. Heck, you should be able to just adjust the length of the new arm you have in there so the bolt slides right in. How far is it off?
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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:29 PM   #33
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it's off about maybe 3/16 to 1/4"
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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:40 PM   #34
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Driveshaft is disconnected, right? Sway bar too? What's the status of your track bar, stock or new? Connected or not? Did you change out the springs?
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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:58 PM   #35
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drive-shaft is not disconnected, do i need to? Sway bar is discoed, trackbar is stock. I have an RC 2.5 lift
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Unread 06-29-2010, 06:03 PM   #36
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Definitely disconnect the driveshaft. It's easy, just the four little 8mm head bolts. You may have to pry it apart in the U joint a bit with a big screw driver. If the control arm still won't line up, disconnect one end of your track bar as well.
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Unread 06-29-2010, 06:55 PM   #37
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I disconnected the drive shaft and finally the track bar. Then put a bottle jack under the swaybar link mount and jacked a little, the hole lined up great.

I will finish it tomorrow, thanks for the help! I love learning all this stuff!!!
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Unread 06-30-2010, 06:51 AM   #38
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Awesome. Yes, it gives you a real sense of accomplishment when you get it all done, and you'll know your Jeep inside and out.
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Unread 09-10-2010, 04:35 PM   #39
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Should my preset currie lower arms be the same length as my stock arms?
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Unread 09-10-2010, 05:56 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrwhite07 View Post
Should my preset currie lower arms be the same length as my stock arms?
Unlikely because they were roughly set for a 4" lift by Currie. Trouble I had with my install was that they weren't tight and easily turned in or out accidentally which lengthened or shortened them.

I have trouble measuring center to center but, Currie added figures to do the overall arms length which, I found easier for me. I got my CAs installed and then screwed with pinion angles. I found that doing all of this with the heep on the ground and using bottle jacks was easier for me..
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Unread 09-30-2010, 08:08 AM   #41
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For anyone that used the Currie arms for a 4" lift - were you able to use Currie's recommended length for the rear lowers, and then use only the adjustment for the rear upper's to set your pinion angle properly for a CV driveshaft?

I was not - I had to shorten my lower control arms a couple rotations set my pinion correctly. I adjusted the uppers all the way to the max length per Currie's directions - 3/4" of threads showing beyong the jamb nuts. Actually, even after shortening the lowers, I still needed to adjust things further, so I lengthened the uppers another 1/8", and that seemed to do the trick. The only reason I was so concerned about getting the pinion set exactly right is because I had an acceleration vibration I was trying to get rid of, otherwise I would have been happy to leave it a little low.

Just curious if anyone else had the same experience. I guess it's probably not a big deal. It's just that I was hoping to use Imped's suggestion of running the lowers 0.25" LONGER than stock, but I ended up being forced to go shorter than stock. I'd complain about losing wheel base length, but then I know someone would give me crap for being too anal
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Unread 09-30-2010, 08:28 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by adamkn View Post
For anyone that used the Currie arms for a 4" lift - were you able to use Currie's recommended length for the rear lowers, and then use only the adjustment for the rear upper's to set your pinion angle properly for a CV driveshaft?

I was not - I had to shorten my lower control arms a couple rotations set my pinion correctly. I adjusted the uppers all the way to the max length per Currie's directions - 3/4" of threads showing beyong the jamb nuts. Actually, even after shortening the lowers, I still needed to adjust things further, so I lengthened the uppers another 1/8", and that seemed to do the trick. The only reason I was so concerned about getting the pinion set exactly right is because I had an acceleration vibration I was trying to get rid of, otherwise I would have been happy to leave it a little low.

Just curious if anyone else had the same experience. I guess it's probably not a big deal. It's just that I was hoping to use Imped's suggestion of running the lowers 0.25" LONGER than stock, but I ended up being forced to go shorter than stock. I'd complain about losing wheel base length, but then I know someone would give me crap for being too anal
Why does everyone without 35's not understand the basics of this?

Shorter than stock, longer than stock, same as stock does not matter. What matters is where the 35" tire sits in the wheelwell at full stuff on the bumpstops with the springs pulled.

That's what the Currie arms are designed for, that's what they work for. If you aren't doing that, then don't expect them to work the same.

And you know you should have pulled the lowers and shortened them slightly to raise the pinion. Also, since the uppers are so much further away from the centerline of the axle tube, you have to adjust them further to get the same degree change in the pinion. That's probably at least 2 times as far.
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Unread 09-30-2010, 08:35 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Weeeee View Post
I disconnected the drive shaft and finally the track bar. Then put a bottle jack under the swaybar link mount and jacked a little, the hole lined up great.

I will finish it tomorrow, thanks for the help! I love learning all this stuff!!!
I did not see this before, but you set your pinion angle with one upper arm installed (fine tune). When you get it dialed in with the lowers about where you want them and get the pinion angle set, then and only then do you set the last upper.

Get the rig level and with the weight on the axles. Use the jack to tip the axle back or the pinion down until you can turn the bolt in the installed upper by hand.

Then and only then do you set the other arm to the length that lets you install the bolt. No you don't care what the length is, all you care about is that both control arm bushings have the same tension on them so you aren't preloading them so they fight each other which will cause them to wear prematurely.
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Unread 09-30-2010, 12:58 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Also, since the uppers are so much further away from the centerline of the axle tube, you have to adjust them further to get the same degree change in the pinion. That's probably at least 2 times as far.
That's why I don't understand people that claim the uppers are only for adjusting pinion angle...
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Unread 10-03-2010, 09:58 PM   #45
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That's why I don't understand people that claim the uppers are only for adjusting pinion angle...
Because its what they read online! Maybe its because they are cheaper? Maybe their new lift kit came with fixed lowers so they replace "last" bit of factory stuff to fix their problem.
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