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Unread 06-24-2010, 06:53 AM   #16
roundlitefan
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It is very easy to do just a few at a time. Laying under the Jeep, I did 1 pair of arms a night for 4 nights, took me about 1 to 1.5 hours per pair, and that was with my 4 year old "helping".

If you want to save a little time, go to Harbor Freight and buy their set of extra long drill bits with the 7/16" bit in it for $6.99. They are about 2' long and make drilling out the rear upper mounts a lot easier. Otherwise it is possible to do it with a regular bit, a small round file, a dremel, etc., it just takes longer. Personally I just welded a piece of steel rod to a cheap drill bit of the right size and used that, worked just fine.

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Unread 06-24-2010, 08:02 AM   #17
mikesbeachhut
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I installed mine with wheels on the ground,full weight of jeep, ONE at a time.Pry bar helps.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 08:33 AM   #18
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I didn't use a pry bar. I used a bottle jack under the rear diff towards the pinion so that when you raise it, it tries to twist the axle. Then I'd raise the jack slightly with one hand while pushing on the control arm bolt with the other. You get to a point in your jacking where the bolt slides right in with finger pressure. I'm not even sure what I'd pry against with a bar.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 08:35 AM   #19
nate94gt
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im going to be doing mine next week, whats the best way to make sure the axles are square to the frame?
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Unread 06-24-2010, 08:48 AM   #20
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im going to be doing mine next week, whats the best way to make sure the axles are square to the frame?
Hahah, hopefully Imped is still sleeping so I can slip this post in.

That's not an easy thing to do. You can cross measure at some points on the axle to some drill holes on the frame. But... drill holes, can be off as well. That's why you're better off setting up your control arms to a pre-determined length and hoping for the best. When you get things installed, take it to a good alignment shop and get it checked. Worked for me. Remember, your stock arms were fixed length, so it's doubtful your axle is going to be very far out of square if you set your opposite arms equal.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 09:52 AM   #21
Weeeee
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I was also curious how you can verify the axles are square to the frame?
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Unread 06-24-2010, 09:56 AM   #22
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I was also curious how you can verify the axles are square to the frame?
That question has been answered several times now.........

Think about this--the axle is square to the frame (or close enough) from the factory. The stock arms are the same length (close enough) from the factory. So, wouldn't it make sense that if your new arms were adjusted to the same length, that they would locate the axle to be square with the frame?

This isn't rocket science.

If you really want to double check things, take measurements from specific/concrete points on the axles diagonally (front driver to rear passenger). Now do the same with the opposite diagonal. Those should be the same or very close to it. But again, if you aren't blind and can set the arms to the exact same length, then your axles will be square to the frame.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 10:01 AM   #23
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I was also curious how you can verify the axles are square to the frame?
It's an exercise in deductive reasoning in that you have to figure out what your trying to accomplish and then go about finding ways to verify what you are doing.

First, level the frame side to side.
Center axle under the rig.
Verify that you are close by measuring very accurately the distance between spring perches.

There are several places on the frame that are in the SAME spot on both sides of the frame. Measure between them and the same spot on each side of the axle and make those dimensions the same for both.

If you want to be more accurate, there are some holes in the sides of the frame you can use to line up plumb bobs and then measure straight forward from the rear axle.

Once the rear is lined up, measure from it to the front axle to square up both.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 11:59 AM   #24
Weeeee
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This is my first time doing control arms so I appreciate everyones patience and support.
I may not get to it this weekend as I need to fix a Transfer case bolt, and install my new Savvy Gas tank skid, but I will report back afterwards.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 12:36 PM   #25
mikesbeachhut
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Dont be intimataded when installing your arms.One thing I highly recommend is a couple of extra new control arm nuts & bolts & a way to cut off the nuts if you strip or cant get the nuts loose. Happend to me on my lower rear control arm.Had to cut the nut off & then I installed a new nut & bolt.w-d the nuts for a few days ahead of time to make it easyer.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 12:39 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by mikesbeachhut View Post
Dont be intimataded when installing your arms.One thing I highly recommend is a couple of extra new control arm nuts & bolts & a way to cut off the nuts if you strip or cant get the nuts loose. Happend to me on my lower rear control arm.Had to cut the nut off & then I installed a new nut & bolt.w-d the nuts for a few days ahead of time to make it easyer.

Not a worry with the Currie arms; they come with all new bolts.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 02:32 PM   #27
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Not a worry with the Currie arms; they come with all new bolts.
funny you say that, i stripped one of my upper bolts, the threads actually peeled off the bolt and not the nut. I had my torque wrench set to 60 ft/lbs and i was torqueing the nut. It was only one bolt, but it was a paint to cut the nut off. Im not sure what caused it, but it never really got tight, then i realized it was just spinning.




Also, i measured the difference in my rear lowers, its 1/16th of an inch. my rear axle is perpendicular to the frame within 1/32th of an inch. I still need to tweek in the front i think, but that takes 2 people IMO. Ill have a helper saturday and ill make sure its within 1/16th of an inch hopefully closer.
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Unread 06-24-2010, 06:28 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
It's an exercise in deductive reasoning in that you have to figure out what your trying to accomplish and then go about finding ways to verify what you are doing.

First, level the frame side to side.
Center axle under the rig.
Verify that you are close by measuring very accurately the distance between spring perches.

There are several places on the frame that are in the SAME spot on both sides of the frame. Measure between them and the same spot on each side of the axle and make those dimensions the same for both.

If you want to be more accurate, there are some holes in the sides of the frame you can use to line up plumb bobs and then measure straight forward from the rear axle.

Once the rear is lined up, measure from it to the front axle to square up both.
I did mine with a tape measure and a lot of time.
I used the wheel lugs and control arm mounts as the measuring points. Got everything within .100" (rear axle being out of square with the front axle) and that was confirmed on a laser rack. I was happy with how it came out after a bunch of axle work...

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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:00 PM   #29
Weeeee
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I have all the lowers installed and tonight I started on the front uppers. I am having a hard time getting the hole on the axle lined up, i tried jacking the axle and frame a bit but it always pulls the CA hole back further, somehow I need to pull the axle back to get it to line up.

I tired a ratchet strap but the one i have is too small and doesn't do squat, any ideas?
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Unread 06-29-2010, 05:09 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weeeee View Post
I have all the lowers installed and tonight I started on the front uppers. I am having a hard time getting the hole on the axle lined up, i tried jacking the axle and frame a bit but it always pulls the CA hole back further, somehow I need to pull the axle back to get it to line up.

I tired a ratchet strap but the one i have is too small and doesn't do squat, any ideas?
Set the car on the ground on the wheels, then you either need to jack up the pinion area on the diff, or pull down on it. There's something about having the car resting on its springs in the neutral position that removes all the binding on the control arms. You'd think you could get the same alignment by carefully jacking up the axle while the frame is on jack stands, but it's just not the same.
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