Currie Control Arms Install tips - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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Currie Control Arms Install tips

I just received a set of Currie Control arms(all 8), any tips or tricks to installing them?

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post #2 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 03:51 PM
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dont measure, just align the axles under the jeep. make sure the rear axle is strait to the frame and the front axle is straight to the rear axle. Dont try to stretch your wheelbase either, make sure your tires are center at full compression. They are tight, but your gonna love em, did you get the housing kit too?
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post #3 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 03:57 PM
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With the axle up on a jack, you can manhandle it fairly easy to line the bolt holes up. You can safely run the lowers at .25" over stock. I'd do that, make sure the lowers on the same axle are exactly the same length from eye to eye and install. Adjust uppers for pinion angle....again, same length to keep everything square. If you can't fit the uppers when they are at the same length, your axle isn't centered relative to the frame.

Enjoy. Post back results to help clear up the common misconceptions about JJ's.

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post #4 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 04:08 PM
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I also purchased the 8 control arms from currie and they will be here next Monday. My question is can you do them one at a time as in remove one stock control arm and replace with currie arm or do you have to remove them all at once and replace?

05 Unlimited 3" lift, 33" MT MTZ so far
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post #5 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 04:42 PM
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I am by no means a pro, but I did mine one at a time last weekend and it was not too difficult...I set their lengths prior to installing, installed all 8 arms, and had to remove my rear uppers and make slight adjustments to the length in order to get my pinion angle where I wanted it.
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post #6 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumpster View Post
dont measure, just align the axles under the jeep. make sure the rear axle is strait to the frame and the front axle is straight to the rear axle. Dont try to stretch your wheelbase either, make sure your tires are center at full compression. They are tight, but your gonna love em, did you get the housing kit too?
What's the housing kit?
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post #7 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 06:11 PM
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Ya what's the housing kit?

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post #8 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 06:17 PM
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It is a replacement for the control arm mount on the axle. It utilizes a JJ joint and is welded to where the existing mount was. XJ/TJ/LJ/MJ FRONT END HOUSING JOHNNY JOINTŪ KIT Click that link for a a better desc.

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he made it clear when he said he was. He didnt ask for a photo ID of you did he.

People need to be a little more trusting, Its not like we are on a convict and rapist forum.
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Upon further reflection I've decided I've had enough of this BS and you are now on my ignore list.

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post #9 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 06:28 PM
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I did mine a few weeks ago. Set the lengths before installing. Use the lengths recommended by Currie depending on your lift. Or if you're keeping the same height, measure your current arms and set them to that length, or somewhere between that length and Currie's measurements. Count threads to make sure you have both sides exactly the same. That will give you a good baseline. Then fine tune your pinion angle using your upper arms. My axles came out exactly centered this way. I adjusted my upper arms just one or two threads to dial in my pinion, and that was it. I would recommend installing the upper arms with the Jeep sitting with its wheels on the ground. They come out and go in very easy that way.

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post #10 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 09:58 PM
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As for making sure the arms are the same length--threads won't always do it. Use bolts to keep both joints concentric. If you can fit the bolts through both joints on both ends, they are obviously the same length. Once the arms are in and you discover you want to adjust them, use the same amount of turns at that point.

Currie only suggests using the specified length to keep things simple in order to minimize calls to them....IMO, that length is too short. If you understand the basics, you can lengthen the arms a bit without any issues as long as you test them at full bump to ensure the axle and gas tank skid aren't touching, along with the tire and rear of the fender.

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post #11 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 10:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
As for making sure the arms are the same length--threads won't always do it. Use bolts to keep both joints concentric. If you can fit the bolts through both joints on both ends, they are obviously the same length.
I'll strongly encourage anyone considering this, not to. It's very possible to fit the bolts through both arms and have one of them at least a 1/2" shorter than the other. Just angle the hole in each end of one to line up with the angled holes in the other.

Best thing is to get them close, install them and then if you want to check lengths, hook your tape measure over the outside of the bolt and read to the center of the grease fitting on the other one. Easy and convenient.

Quote:
Currie only suggests using the specified length to keep things simple in order to minimize calls to them....IMO, that length is too short. If you understand the basics, you can lengthen the arms a bit without any issues as long as you test them at full bump to ensure the axle and gas tank skid aren't touching, along with the tire and rear of the fender.
OMG! MY ARMS ARE A 1/4" TOO SHORT, I MAY NOT BE ABLE TO MAKE THAT NEXT 12' TALL WATERFALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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post #12 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 10:48 PM
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Blaine--I think that's a given. If the ball isn't square to the joint body, then that method is useless. When bolted up, bolt to bolt or bolt to zerk works perfectly as well. I've done both.

And duh, everyone knows 1/4" makes all the difference..... Remember the mild case of OCD I mentioned in the thread talking about magnetic angle finders? Yeah, that holds true here as well.

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post #13 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 11:48 PM
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I wasnt bs'ing when i said to forget the tape measure, i had a vibe until i took blaine's advice and squared my axles to the frame and each other, funny thing is, none of my control arms are exactly the same length. They may be close, but the axles are square, and it got rid of the harmonic vibe i had left over from the install.
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post #14 of 89 Old 06-23-2010, 11:53 PM
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I really don't see the harm in pre-setting the lengths as instructed by Currie. You may just find out when you take your measurements that you're done, as I was in my case.

2005 Rubicon, Currie JJ SA lift with AEV 3" springs. Link to my build

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post #15 of 89 Old 06-24-2010, 06:18 AM
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Obviously axle squareness relative to the frame is the key. All else put aside, if the arms are set to the same length and installed, your axle should be square to the frame. If not, it obviously wasn't square from the factory to begin with. If there's a discrepancy, then the control arm mounts weren't welded square to each other. There's no "harm" in leaving the arms untouched from Currie. Call me contrary, but when something says "leave it at this length" I ask "why should I?" There's a reason most of the guys around here call me when it comes to setting up control arms and everything else associated with it, like pinion angle and caster.

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