Currie arms popping, is this normal for Johnny Joints? - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 04-22-2012, 10:19 AM   #31
greg_kulosa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoplin

Proper torque on the uppers (7/16 grade 8) is 75 ft/lbs, the lower 9/16 are 150 ft/lbs. If you only have your lowers at 80, might want to crank on them some more.
Really? The instruction sheet from Currie says 60 ft/lb for the upper 7/16 bolts, and 90 ft/lb for the lower 9/16 bolts.

Is the Currie sheet incorrect?

I'm doing the rear set today, so I'd love to know if I need to do them tighter.

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Unread 04-22-2012, 10:58 AM   #32
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I don't know, I just buy grade 8 bolts and use the proper torque using a torque chart. Currie's numbers seem awful low if you're using grade 8.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 11:09 AM   #33
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C-clip must be it then, the bolt is torqued to spec and is not moving. I'm curious to how a c-clip would pop out, due to the fact I have not flexed the suspension yet. So what could be the cause? Why would both of my rear uppers pop a c-clip out?
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Unread 04-22-2012, 11:21 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcoplin View Post
Proper torque on the uppers (7/16 grade 8) is 75 ft/lbs, the lower 9/16 are 150 ft/lbs. If you only have your lowers at 80, might want to crank on them some more.
I think that's for the factory bolts. Currie specifies different numbers IIRC.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/instruction_sheets/currie_control_arms.html

Edit> I didn't realize the post had been answered already. The lower numbers might be due to the center ball. Too much torque might distort or break the center of the joints?
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Unread 04-22-2012, 11:35 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshhtfld View Post
C-clip must be it then, the bolt is torqued to spec and is not moving. I'm curious to how a c-clip would pop out, due to the fact I have not flexed the suspension yet. So what could be the cause? Why would both of my rear uppers pop a c-clip out?
I think there was a run that wasn't machined correctly. Contact Savvy or Currie.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 12:52 PM   #36
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My currie arms came with greasable bolts, I can see why they would need less torque due to being hollow for the grease fitting.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 02:02 PM   #37
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Edit> I didn't realize the post had been answered already. The lower numbers might be due to the center ball. Too much torque might distort or break the center of the joints?
Not gonna happen. You need some pretty intense machinery to even drill them. They are case hardened and heat treated.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 03:36 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by pcoplin View Post
I don't know, I just buy grade 8 bolts and use the proper torque using a torque chart. Currie's numbers seem awful low if you're using grade 8.
The bolts are grade 8 but what about the nuts? I know the bolts that came with my Clayton lift are grade 5 so a lower torque is needed.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 03:37 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by alex211 View Post
My currie arms came with greasable bolts, I can see why they would need less torque due to being hollow for the grease fitting.
Ah, that's probably true. I don't run bolts with holes already drilled in them.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 03:38 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by wushaw View Post
The bolts are grade 8 but what about the nuts? I know the bolts that came with my Clayton lift are grade 5 so a lower torque is needed.
I use grade 8 nuts, too. If you are using grade 5 you would use the torque ratings for a grade 5. Duh.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 05:32 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by pcoplin View Post
I use grade 8 nuts, too. If you are using grade 5 you would use the torque ratings for a grade 5. Duh.
Yes, but you have no idea how many folks would actually think of that....most are just used to looking at the head and never worrying about the nut portion.
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