Currie arms popping, is this normal for Johnny Joints? - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 41 Old 07-13-2010, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
vetdezracer
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I got them apart using the all thread method, thank you Mr. Blaine. I called Currie to see get some advice and found out a couple of interesting things. They no-longer use two different washer thicknesses, now they set up their Jonny Joints from the start with the thicker washers which explain why mine are so tight. Currie recommended using a moly based grease, moly graphite even better. They said that regular grease would result in them sticking.

The guy at Currie said this stuff is pretty expensive, but I found Sta-Lube Moly Graph for $4.99 at NAPA. Is this what I’m looking for or do I need a higher quality moly grease?


Last edited by vetdezracer; 07-13-2010 at 05:14 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #17 of 41 Old 04-18-2012, 09:26 PM
tazsport
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What ever became of this problem you were having with your JJ's ? I'm having a similar issue with one of my front lower control JJ's.

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post #18 of 41 Old 04-19-2012, 01:29 AM
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Just an FYI: Don't forget to check the jam nuts. I ruined an arm because I neglected to follow up after installation.

With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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post #19 of 41 Old 04-19-2012, 08:29 AM
tazsport
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I checked the torque on the bolt and it's at 90 lbs. When you say check the jamb nut, what is there to check other than the torque? I've never had a JJ apart, but after doing some research and emailing Gerald, I understand that this sound is most likely not coming from the internals of the JJ.

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post #20 of 41 Old 04-19-2012, 08:36 AM
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If you would take a JJ apart, you'd see that there's nothing inside that can produce a "pop." Any pop will either come from the shank rattling inside the arm (loose jam nut) or the bolt and center ball moving against each other (loose bolt). Give the bolt an extra crank (quit worrying about the specific torque value so much) and give the jam nut a good crank (again, same advice on torque value).

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post #21 of 41 Old 04-19-2012, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazsport View Post
What ever became of this problem you were having with your JJ's ? I'm having a similar issue with one of my front lower control JJ's.
The big problem with the front of lower control arms is you are trying to clamp something in place in a slot which has very little surface area and gets damaged easily by sleeve style arms that don't have the larger ends like the JJ does. Pop the arm off and look at the inside of the mounts and see if they are damaged.

Or, just tighten them up until they quit popping.

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post #22 of 41 Old 04-19-2012, 09:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tazsport View Post
I checked the torque on the bolt and it's at 90 lbs. When you say check the jamb nut, what is there to check other than the torque? I've never had a JJ apart, but after doing some research and emailing Gerald, I understand that this sound is most likely not coming from the internals of the JJ.
My jam nut was loose for too long and it wallowed out the tube. The threaded tube had an oval shape and no matter how tight I made the jam nut the threads would still "pop" over every bump. It sounded like someone smacked my axle lightly with a ball peen hammer. It wasn't visible but when you would turn the joint 360 degrees in the tube you could feel it. I chased that noise for a month. I finally had to remove the arm to figure it out.

The arm would also pop when I cranked the steering wheel back and forth while the Jeep was stationary.

With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.
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post #23 of 41 Old 04-19-2012, 09:56 PM
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Same issue here, I traced mine to the factory lca mount on the axle side. The rubber bushing was bottoming out when flexing and causing the frame side jj to contact the frame bracket. I' m ordering the front axle kit ASAP
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post #24 of 41 Old 04-20-2012, 06:24 AM
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All the better reason to do a HP30 swap. The factory mounts didn't have a slot.

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post #25 of 41 Old 04-20-2012, 06:15 PM
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I did it for the driveshaft clearance:

...
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post #26 of 41 Old 04-20-2012, 06:29 PM
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Or, just tighten them up until they quit popping.
I had to go to about 80 ftlbs to shut mine up. The joints never made a sound though
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post #27 of 41 Old 04-22-2012, 07:49 AM
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Well, problem solved. Even though I had re-torqued all the control arm bolts as spec'd in the Currie instructions and checked all the jam nuts, it wasn't enough. I cranked on the bolts at each end of the control arm making the creaking sound and she's quite now. Thanks for all the replies. Can't say enough on how happy I am with this 3" Savvy Offroad/Currie lift. Gerald, thanks for the awesome customer support !!!!

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post #28 of 41 Old 04-22-2012, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ytowntj View Post
I had to go to about 80 ftlbs to shut mine up. The joints never made a sound though
Proper torque on the uppers (7/16 grade 8) is 75 ft/lbs, the lower 9/16 are 150 ft/lbs. If you only have your lowers at 80, might want to crank on them some more.

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post #29 of 41 Old 04-22-2012, 09:17 AM
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Hate to hijack a thread but similar issue with my joint, so I figured I'd ask. My rear aluminum uppers at the axle side have about half a inch to a inch of play on them. I can grab them by hand and move them vertically. I was going through the check list this morning when I noticed it on both rear uppers.

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post #30 of 41 Old 04-22-2012, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshhtfld View Post
Hate to hijack a thread but similar issue with my joint, so I figured I'd ask. My rear aluminum uppers at the axle side have about half a inch to a inch of play on them. I can grab them by hand and move them vertically. I was going through the check list this morning when I noticed it on both rear uppers.
OK.....

What kind of play? Play around the bolt or play around the center ball of the joint? Either your bolt is too loose or you popped out a C clip.

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