The Anti-rock end link trick: custom machined center links.
When I ordered the Anti-rock I was a little hesitant about it but was assured by Jason at Redrock4x4 that it was a great piece of equipment. I'm glad I followed his advice because I absolutely love this piece of engineering. Sure, the Swayloc is tops but I'd mark this up right behind it. The only problem with the design is that Currie set it up for 4" lifted rigs and there's not enough adjustment for shorter TJs. To get it to fit requires some creativity.
Since I was installing the Anti-rock on a 2" lifted Tj I needed to shorten the threaded rods for the end links. Unfortunately Currie supplies rods for a 4" lifted Jeep and simply cutting them down to size wouldn't work. Here's the reason:
End links too close on a 2" BB lifted TJ
The rods supplied by Curried are only partially threaded. And to make the rods fit a 2" lifted TJ (and stock for that matter) you'd need to run the threads all the way to the center of the rod so they meet in the middle. Sounds simple enough, either get new threaded rod or use a die and thread it yourself.
Not so fast. There are left hand threads and right hand threads on the supplied rods. This makes it great for adjusting the link post-installation but a PITA if you want to add more threads. And I don't know of any all-thread rod that comes with half way threaded with both directions. But wait, there's more.
The end link rods have ROLLED threads . . . not cut threads. With rolled threads a rod of slightly smaller diameter is placed in a machine which has roller teeth that push the metal UP into the shape of the threads. So where you don't have any threads the rod necks down. In other words, you can't simply cut more threads into the rod with a die . . . there wouldn't be sufficient thread engagement.
What to do? Custom machined end link rods.
Note custom machined link/bolt on top
When I talked to a machine shop they gave me this suggestion for reducing the machining costs. Go to a fastener store and get a bolt that's long enough with a thick shaft and cut threads at the end in propper pitch and diameter. Have the machine shop cut the nead off the bolt and then they have enough material to cut the left hand threads into the thick end of the bolt shaft. Some guys at a local machine shop did this for me at the tune of $25 per bolt (x 2) at the very last minute on the Friday right before I was heading out on a 3 day wheel'n trip on the other side of the state.
With the machined bolts/links in place the fit and alignment was great.
New endlinks installed
Sure, it was a bigger job to get the Anti-rock setup on my Tj than I figured but after it's all said and done I'm really glad I made this mod. As others have mentioned and as the warning states there is more body roll on-road. But it's not bad. The critical moment is the transition from going strait to entering a turn. Since the Anti-rock is a softer swaybar it takes a little extra lean until it starts really resisting the body roll. And until the TJ takes a set in the corner it may feel a little disconcerting to some in this momentary transition state.
By starting to turn in a little sooner and being smooth with the steering wheel you can all but negate the extra body roll. The idea is to gradually load up the Anti-rock rather than hit it all at once with a sharp turn. With this new driving technique I can confidently take corners 10-15 mph above the speed limit. Not that I do regularly but during some testing and some moment of hurry I have.
Around town the Anti-rock feels just fine. And on the highway I have no worries with the TJ cruizing at 80 mph. Back mountain roads are a-ok at the speed limit or even 5-10 mph over. Again, not that I'd recommend it but I've done it out of curiosity.
However, off-road is where this beastie really shines. You only give up 4% of potential flex but what you get in return is well worth it. The TJ body feels much more controlled and the pitch/roll very well balanced between the front and rear axles. And because of that balance, the Anti-rock help improve traction by equalizing the weight on the tires. Side-hill driving is also much aided by having a swaybar hooked up as opposed to being disco'd.
If you, or anyone else, wants more info on the installation of this device on a not-so-lifted Tj I have a a full write-up on my website here.
In the end I'd fully recommend this, even to a stock Tj. Just be aware of what you're getting into. And keep the supplied rods from Currie if/when you want to go up later.