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#1 | |
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Registered User
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cowl air intake write up
I know its been done before, but this is my own build. I've had a few requests for a write up, so here goes. This is gonna be pretty long, so hang in there.
The supplies you need are an empty gallon paint can, a fram cone air filter like in the picture: www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/eaa_filters_640px.jpg that will fit into the paint can, a 3 inch air duct elbow like this: www.progressive-growth.com/proddetail.php?prod=11021, a 2.5 inch air duct tube like this: www.dundasjafine.com/products/flexible/aluminum.html, a flat piece of metal to use as a brace, a 2.5 inch RV sewer pipe coupling from walmart, a rubber spacer so the air duct elbow will fit snugly into the back of the cone filter and another that will go inside the elbow around the throttle body, 2 pipe clamps that will fit 2.5", some screws, a set of drill bits, a nut that will fit on the bolts for the valve cover, and a 2.5" hole saw. First thing to do is take out the stock intake tube and box. On the firewall there is a bracket that has 2 multiple wire connectors on it. Next to it is a ground wire bolted to the firewall, so remove it and hook it up to some other place. You'll want to put the centering drillbit of the hole saw into the nut that the bolt was in and drill away. The sewer pipe coupling will go through this hole, so make sure it fits, i had to bang the hole with a hammer to get mine to fit. Clamp the end of a length of the flexy tube to coupling. Now, take the gallon can and drill a hole in the bottom of it using the hole saw. The air filter will go in the other end, where the paint usually goes. You'll want to get it as even all around as possible. Using a small drill bit, drill about 6 holes through the filter into the metal of the can to use the screws to secure it to the can. The metal for the bracket will need to be bent like an L and cut a little on each side at the bend to a sort of a broad U so that it can fit down onto one of the bolts of the valve cover using a new nut on top of the stock one. The bracket will have to be tall enough to keep the can from hitting the valve cover. You'll have to screw the bracket to the bottom of the can below the hole you drilled. The ducting will go from the hole in the firewall then into the hole in the can. The elbow will then be fitted into the filter and clamp the other end onto the throttle body. Clamp everything down and make sure everything is tight and wont wiggle loose. I put a vent deflector from home depot that I spray painted black over the vent on the cowl facing the windshield that acts like a sort of ram air and screwed it down onto the cowl so it won't blow away. I think thats everything and sorry it was so long. Now, I have to disclaim myself, so if you decide to do this, I take no responsibility and your doing it at your own risk. Good luck and ask away if you have any problems or questions. Sorry I don't have any pictures, but my camera took a dump on me. Before yall start talking trash or saying it's a waste of time and money, don't. It works great for me and gave me a boost of around 2 mpg. You may not see the same results, but that's what i got.
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2001 Wrangler Sport 4.0, 5 speed, 30/35 axles, 3.73's, ZJ springs, 1"BB, 31" Futura M/Ts [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2634280[/url] Last edited by badoosh27; 07-20-2008 at 09:52 PM.. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Mortaritaville, Iraq (yeah, it sucks)
Posts: 1,885
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there are TONS of junkyard airboxes that are conical and will seal and would be perfect for this. why use a paint can? literally TONS of vehicles used airboxes that will work.
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He who hunts in a pack is still a dog. The lion hunts alone, and so do I. - Napoleon Conducting an argument by appealing to authority is not using your intelligence; it is just using your memory. - Leonardo Da Vinci |
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#3 |
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Some Call me RockDog
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interesting idea. I want to do this eventually, but I'm going to go to the JY and look at all the different boxes
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Stretched TJ Future, Coil overs, 40s, 60/14 bolt My Build Thread. www.kifourwheelers.com www.indyorv.com For Sale: TJ 44 Combo, 4.88s, detroit, Alloy USA shafts, Disc Brakes, HD lower mounts, Clayton tube Truss 35" procomp tires with Aluminum wheels $650 (4) 5x4.5 steel beadlocks $200 3 11"& 2 13" BBCS shocks Ford Dana 60 Rear $150 Big Daddy Offroad HD tie Rod (4) 15x8 5x4.5 TJ, YJ, XJ, etc bolt pattern Aluminum wheels $175 |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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can you post any pics?
also all the links are dead... |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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Lets see some pics
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#6 |
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Registered User
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ya, i know there are boxes out there, but all the junkyards here are about 20 miles away and i dont really feel like burning the gas or dealing with traffic.
about the pics, i'll try to borrow my roomates camera because mine died on me. i dont know whats up with the links, but if you click them, then in the new window delete the jeepforum part in the address bar and it'll work
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2001 Wrangler Sport 4.0, 5 speed, 30/35 axles, 3.73's, ZJ springs, 1"BB, 31" Futura M/Ts [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2634280[/url] |
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#7 |
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Web Wheeler
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I have 2 panel filters under the cowl and water has been no issue. Even in a downpour the drain should carry the water out faster than the cowl area can fill up. If folks think the cowl area will fill with water in a rain then some drain maintenance is in order. My lower filter is only slightly lower than or even with the A/C blower motor/fan intake. I've driven in down pours and I've never had water blowing through the A/C vents. Can someone actually say their cowl area has filled with water?
BTW, the duct work stuff you are using for intake air supply probably is sucking in dirt. That stuff is made for gas water heater exhaust and that sort of thing. I don't know where you are using it, but I would not want it between the filter and throttle body.
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2006 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited Jeep Club Member #1340 6 Speed, Hardtop Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come! |
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#8 |
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Registered User
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i agree with you bob, i'm trying to find something to wrap that pipe in that will seal it up, but won't degrade in the heat.
i've never had any issues with rain either. when i first set it up, i put the hose on full blast into the cowl vent and it never sputtered or anything. if it did become a problem, i would wallow out the drain hole under the cowl to let it drain faster.
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2001 Wrangler Sport 4.0, 5 speed, 30/35 axles, 3.73's, ZJ springs, 1"BB, 31" Futura M/Ts [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2634280[/url] |
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#9 |
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Registered User
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here's a pic:
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2001 Wrangler Sport 4.0, 5 speed, 30/35 axles, 3.73's, ZJ springs, 1"BB, 31" Futura M/Ts [url]http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2634280[/url] |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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Are you still getting that much out of it? (If you even still run it)
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#11 |
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Junior Member
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