couple questions about a rubicon - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
APEDZ04LJ
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couple questions about a rubicon

I currently have a 04 lj with 83,000 miles on it, id like to get what i can for it, so ive been looking at this 06 rubi with 13,000 miles for 20,000, so im thinking about trading my lj in for it, and doing a loan to get some credit on my name due to me just graduating highschool, so what im asking is why is the rubi better than an lj, i know to run 35s on the lj id have to put alloy shafts and regear and such to even run 33.s but im wondering with the rubi having 4.11 would i have to regear to run 33's and would i still need alloy shafts and a sye and cv to run 35's and 4" lift?my lj is currently auto and id love to have a manual tranny

heres the rubi im looking at it, Does it look lifted to you and what size tires if so?



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post #2 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:24 PM
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For your SYE question, the yoke on a Rubi is fixed, so there is no need for SYE, but I believe youd have to get a longer DS depending on how much lift you have.

Rubicons are favored because they come stock with D44s front and rear with an air locker in both. The rear is a true D44 but the D44 in front isnt, someone will have to chime in with why because I can't remember off the top of my head.

I have a 2006 rubi with the NSG370 (6speed) transmission, 4.11 gears and I run 33s. I haven't been in a situation where I havent had enough power in the ~9 months Ive had this setup, so my personal opinion is that that the gears are adequate for the setup I have, others may disagree.

The rubi also runs a different (stronger) Transfer case than the standard models (I beleive)

Quote:
Originally Posted by KHoff90 View Post
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?
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post #3 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:24 PM
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imo put the cash you will lose on your lj into regearing your lj.. you basically have the same axles in an lj as a tj.. ljs have the 44 rear already and a 30 up front which is the same as an 06 rubi dana 44.. unless its just the rubi name you want id stick with the longer wheel base which is better and basically same axles and put my money elsewhere... you dont have to have alloy shafts to run 33s or 35s safely either..if you do go with the 33s and get the rubi 4.11s are good.. unless you want a lower crawling gear ..depends on how much you drive on the street or trail.....get what you want ..good luck with it
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post #4 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:28 PM
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I believe the rubicon has a d 44 in the front and rear and lockers front and rear but I'm not sure about the gears or the sye.
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post #5 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:30 PM
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and, from the pic it's hard to tell, but it looks to me like that Rubi has a good 4 1/2" of lift and 35s on it. So, you'll be needing to regear it if it's not already...
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post #6 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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ok so im confused on the part about how the rubi dana 44 front is the same as my lj dana 30 front?
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post #7 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJeeper92 View Post
ok so im confused on the part about how the rubi dana 44 front is the same as my lj dana 30 front?
Send Jerry Bransford a PM and ask him why the D44 in the front of a Rubicon is not a true D44. If I could remember why then I would tell you

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Originally Posted by KHoff90 View Post
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?
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post #8 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJeeper92 View Post
ok so im confused on the part about how the rubi dana 44 front is the same as my lj dana 30 front?
It has a D44 center section. That's it. The rest of it uses the same parts as the D30. So, it's no stronger than your D30 - and no one is tearing up d30 diffs, it's the axles and outer bits that break...
This is what is commonly called an advertising gimmick....

So the only extra thing you really get when you buy a Rubi that's better than say, a Sport with a D44, is the Transfer case. And some stickers.
Oh, and some light duty lockers.
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post #9 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueFlame View Post
It has a D44 center section. That's it. The rest of it uses the same parts as the D30. So, it's no stronger than your D30 - and no one is tearing up d30 diffs, it's the axles and outer bits that break...
This is what is commonly called an advertising gimmick....

So the only extra thing you really get when you buy a Rubi that's better than say, a Sport with a D44, is the Transfer case. And some stickers.
Oh, and some light duty lockers.
Dam i think im gonna cry sit in a corner and cry, so basically depending on whats done to this rubi the best part about it is low miles and a manual tranny....
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post #10 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueFlame View Post
It has a D44 center section. That's it. The rest of it uses the same parts as the D30. So, it's no stronger than your D30 - and no one is tearing up d30 diffs, it's the axles and outer bits that break...
This is what is commonly called an advertising gimmick....

So the only extra thing you really get when you buy a Rubi that's better than say, a Sport with a D44, is the Transfer case. And some stickers.
Oh, and some light duty lockers.
Oh, I don't know about that. Having selectable lockers adds a bit of fun to the mix.

The D44 housing up front also gives you the ability to gear lower than 4.88 which is the limit on the D30.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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post #11 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Oh, I don't know about that. Having selectable lockers adds a bit of fun to the mix.

The D44 housing up front also gives you the ability to gear lower than 4.88 which is the limit on the D30.
Hmm some good news
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post #12 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiconRazorbac View Post
Oh, I don't know about that. Having selectable lockers adds a bit of fun to the mix.

The D44 housing up front also gives you the ability to gear lower than 4.88 which is the limit on the D30.
I think Im wrong, but on the pre 2007 dana 44s 4.88 is the lowest you can go. JK 44s started being able togo lower than that

Quote:
Originally Posted by KHoff90 View Post
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?
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post #13 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
I think Im wrong, but on the pre 2007 dana 44s 4.88 is the lowest you can go. JK 44s started being able togo lower than that
Nope. You can go lower with the TJ D44s. There are countless people on this forum alone running 5.13s, and quite a few with 5.38s on TJ 44s.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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post #14 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenJeeper92 View Post
Hmm some good news
BlueFlame is right about strenghth though. Rubi D44s share the same outers, joints, unitbearings, knuckles, balljoints, etc with the D30.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Your shaft isn't long enough to handle that kind of droop...
My build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ru...thread-792423/
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post #15 of 35 Old 07-03-2010, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoVaHunter View Post
I think Im wrong, but on the pre 2007 dana 44s 4.88 is the lowest you can go. JK 44s started being able togo lower than that
that's the D30's stats
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