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Unread 04-29-2005, 08:36 PM   #1
FL 4.0L
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coolant drain plugs on block

Searched. Checked Stu's site. No luck.

When I change the coolant tomorrow, I want to drain the block. Can you tell me where the plug is before I find it in my FSM? I think I have the original radiator in there at 112K on my '97. Anyone else have the factory rad in there just as long? Or am I going to end up springing that leak after doing the flush?

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Unread 04-29-2005, 08:42 PM   #2
FL 4.0L
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On 4.OL 6-cylinder engine by removing the drain
plug or coolant temperature sensor on the left side of
the block.

From the FSM. Thanks anyway! Maybe this will help someone down the road...
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Unread 04-30-2005, 12:56 AM   #3
87warrior
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IIRC there are about 3 plugs on the side of the block. These plugs are a real funny size and require a special tool...

NEVER FEAR, you can make your own "coolant plug removal tool". Get an old extention for a ratchect. Grind the end down so it will fit in the square plug. Not much griding is needed but it will work wonders and make the prosses go quicker.
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Unread 04-30-2005, 07:05 AM   #4
BillArf
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Coolant Flush on a TJ

Coolant Flush on a TJ

Run engine till thermostat opens and circulates thru system. (CAUTION with hot fluid) Remove the freeze plug (cylinder drain plug) if you want to do it right. Also, you need to carefully loosen the plug on the bottom side of the radiator. Flush the system with lots of water from say the garden hose. Some will tell you to siphon the fluid out of the overflow container also.... When the system is throughly flushed, drained and drains closed, fill the radiator with distilled water and radiator fluid. Also available is a premix that has 50/50 radiator fluid with water.

IF you cannot get the plug out or radiator drain open, just buy yourself a Prestone flush kit or similar kit which has a plastic one way valve that goes on the radiator cap location and you hook your hose to it and flush the system. Using this quasi closed system method is an alternative to pulling the cylinder drain plugs. Caution use your garden hose with little pressure as a garden hose has pressure enough to damage a radiator. Flush the system with lots of water. Some will tell you to siphon the fluid out of the overflow container also. When the system is throughly flushed, drained and drains closed, fill the radiator with distilled water and radiator fluid. Also available is a premix that has 50/50 radiator fluid with water.

..Makes NO sense to try and flush a radiator with a couple of gallons of distilled water as proper flushing takes lots of fluid and some pressure.
When you flush with regular water very little regular water will remain in the block. More important then that little bit of regular water left behind is the fact that you did a very good flush with LOTS of water. This water helps break loose sludge, etc.. For best results they have a fluid you can buy that you use with the flush water.


By the way, radiator flushs with a machine at a local shop are quite effective and inexpensive these days as I mentioned earlier. Another bigge with having a shop do your flush with a machine is you do not have to worry about getting into it with local environmental police, etc. that will ticket you if they see you flushing a radiator into storm drains, etc

Hint: To avoid air pockets in the cooling system have your engine running when you add the last few quarts of fluid into the system.. When you fill a radiator you put the fluid in the opening at the top of the radiator (radiator cap) NOT into the overflow bottle!
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Last edited by BillArf; 05-08-2005 at 07:47 AM..
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Unread 04-30-2005, 07:22 AM   #5
BillArf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FL 4.0L
Searched. Checked Stu's site. No luck.

When I change the coolant tomorrow, I want to drain the block. Can you tell me where the plug is before I find it in my FSM? I think I have the original radiator in there at 112K on my '97. Anyone else have the factory rad in there just as long? Or am I going to end up springing that leak after doing the flush?
Caution use your garden hose with little pressure as a garden hose has pressure enough to damage a radiator, especially an older, weary radiator. 8-) Also, you may play hell trying to get the freeze plug out so you might opt to flush the system as I describe in my other note here. On an older vehicle with lots of miles like that you might want to change the thermostat while you have the system drained. Thermostats cost only a few dollars and are EASY to change for most anyone. Just be sure when you do the thermostat that you have it facing the right way, have it positioned in the assembly correctly and then tighten down the bolts evenly and not excessively tight. People are known to crack the metal housing that holds the thermostat by cranking it down to hard or trying to tighten it down when it is not in there correctly. Changing the thermostat is easy just lets say go easy.. 8-) Can tell you your thermostat if it is the factory original will be causing you trouble in the near future so best bet is to change it out now.
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Last edited by BillArf; 04-30-2005 at 07:32 AM..
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Unread 04-30-2005, 09:39 AM   #6
FL 4.0L
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Thanks for all the help. I just got back on to find out what size I was going to need for the drain plug on the block. Figures I don't have the special tool.

"You know...they make a special tool for that."
-what my friend's dad used to say every time we didn't have the special tool...
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Unread 04-30-2005, 12:02 PM   #7
FL 4.0L
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Still grinding....
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Unread 04-30-2005, 02:13 PM   #8
FL 4.0L
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Giving up on the grinding! I'm just going to round off the inside of the plug. I'm flushing the bejeezus out of it.
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Unread 04-30-2005, 11:21 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FL 4.0L
Giving up on the grinding! I'm just going to round off the inside of the plug. I'm flushing the bejeezus out of it.
Leave the drain plugs alone.
Listen to Bill's advice; he got most of it right.
A flushing T in the Prestone kit goes in the lower heater hose; cut it/insert the T/hose clamp it.
Then drop the lower rad hose by unclamping/gently pulling it off; or try opening the petcock.
You will then attach a hose to the T, turn it on, and run your engine until the water comes out clear. Make sure the heater is turned ON. There are more complete directions on the kit; about $5 at autoparts stores.
It is an easy job, and it avoids air pocket issues. Make sure pets don't lick the drained coolant; it is sweet and poisonous.
Moon
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