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Unread 08-02-2010, 05:53 PM   #1
lostone73
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: richmond,tx, Texas
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Constant HVAC issues

Ok, I've battled this for two years now on a 2000 TJ i've owned since new. Chrysler cannot for the life of them, design a HVAC blower/control circuit that lasts.

Im frustrated to the point of yanking the entire system out and replacing it with some sort of aftermarket hot rod air system.

Just this summer alone: Blower motor $300 , Resistor unit 2 x $60 , Fan speed switch 5 x $29, Dash sub harness $235. Thats just this summer!

Bottom line is it melts one part, you replace that, then it melts the next part down the road.

I've read every thread and post on the subject, mine just seems to like a steady diet of new parts.

I'm at my wits end with this, hell ive owned 12 other vehicles that NEVER needed a single HVAC blower component replaced.

Anything I'm missing here? All factory Mopar parts( I dont do Autozone, O'reilly stuff, never have)

I figured the brand new $300 motor would have dropped the current down as thats usually the source of high current draw.

Help,
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Unread 08-02-2010, 06:03 PM   #2
lil-jmart13
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i have the same year 4cyl 5spd and quit working when i bought it then i ordered a new 3 dial assy. for like n130, no problems sense then and i leave my top off in the rain and use my blower/ heater daily. but shouldnt fuses blow if your melting parts?
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Unread 08-02-2010, 06:07 PM   #3
lostone73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lil-jmart13 View Post
i have the same year 4cyl 5spd and quit working when i bought it then i ordered a new 3 dial assy. for like n130, no problems sense then and i leave my top off in the rain and use my blower/ heater daily. but shouldnt fuses blow if your melting parts?
Thanks for your input, It has never blown a single fuse
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Unread 08-02-2010, 06:17 PM   #4
herbiehind
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
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check your grounds on the whole circuits . you are pulling too many amps through those wires . the switch wires on many makes melt due to too much current where they should've used a relay . but for you to be doing this repeatedly has to be a problem . put an amp meter in series with the battery ; throw it on high and record the amps . i'll do same when i get mine outa the shop . we'll compare . wait ; 12v system ; anyone know what these draw normally ? my meter's probably only good for 10 amps and no longer have clamp on amp meter . i would check all your grounds for anything over 2 ohms . that'll add resistance and create heat . also check fuse size . and even check from fuse working your way to ground on each circuit for a ground where one should not be . a ground with a high ohm reading will not blow a fuse but will act as an additional load and heat stuff up quick .
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Unread 08-02-2010, 06:44 PM   #5
lostone73
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Great idea Herbiehind, I have a nice Amprobe DC ammeter. Ill gather some data.
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Unread 08-03-2010, 05:30 PM   #6
BlueFlame
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No, the fuses rarely blow. The wires behind the controls are FAR too small for the current they carry (they get away with this due a loophole) and they overheat but don't short. Takes a short or a very large draw to blow a fuse. As long as everything is dead perfect it works...

BTW DC didn't design it - it's made by a company who only makes HVAC stuff (pretty sure it's Specific Climate Systems in Texas.) Same controls on about half of all late model cars (same system in my Ford and the one before that for example)
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Unread 08-03-2010, 06:17 PM   #7
TeeJay00
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I have the same exact problem... I've just bought a replacement switch for the A/C fan from the dealership but haven't installed it yet. And the light switch also melted on me last month.

Checked everything and all connection seem to be in order. But I do have a theory though!! Guess where the replacement switches are made??? .... Yup, China

I am so mad at Chrysler for that right now.... This is the first part I buy that was made in China... Damn you Chrysler for ruining my Jeep
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Unread 08-03-2010, 07:57 PM   #8
JBTJ
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I used to go through this hassel although I put a stop to it after melting 3 fan speed switches. I installed a 40 amp relay in the circuit so that now the switch turns on the relay and it turns on the blower motor. So far it has worked and no more melt downs.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:13 AM   #9
lostone73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBTJ View Post
I used to go through this hassel although I put a stop to it after melting 3 fan speed switches. I installed a 40 amp relay in the circuit so that now the switch turns on the relay and it turns on the blower motor. So far it has worked and no more melt downs.

Is your relay installed in the "high" circuit only? I have a FSM and ive just about figured out how to build a relay bank of 4 to carry the load for all 4 speeds.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 08:40 AM   #10
Joeggernaut
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For 100-125 bucks you can get a new blower motor, a switch, a resistor, and 4 relays with plugs. Take those 4 relays and splice them in between the switch and resistor as relays handle current and heat much better than a small under size wire that chrysler put in. Or let your jeep burn up and file a class action lawsuit against them and make them issue a recall to help the rest of us.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 11:36 AM   #11
lostone73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joeggernaut View Post
For 100-125 bucks you can get a new blower motor, a switch, a resistor, and 4 relays with plugs. Take those 4 relays and splice them in between the switch and resistor as relays handle current and heat much better than a small under size wire that chrysler put in. Or let your jeep burn up and file a class action lawsuit against them and make them issue a recall to help the rest of us.
$100-$125 ? I cant find the motor alone for that price. Fill me in in on your source please
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Unread 08-05-2010, 12:29 PM   #12
Warren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lostone73 View Post
$100-$125 ? I cant find the motor alone for that price. Fill me in in on your source please
TJ Blower Motor
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Unread 08-05-2010, 12:50 PM   #13
Joeggernaut
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48 for blower motor shipped ebay
33+16 for resistor and switch from quadratec or w/e plus shipping
4 relays with plugs i forget site but about 20 bucks shipped

so like 120 for a permenant and reliable ac.
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Unread 08-05-2010, 12:55 PM   #14
TeeJay00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren View Post
How can it be so cheap and still be an OEM part??? Dealership asked for $200+ just for the blower !!!
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Unread 08-05-2010, 01:04 PM   #15
Joeggernaut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeeJay00 View Post
How can it be so cheap and still be an OEM part??? Dealership asked for $200+ just for the blower !!!
keyword^^^^. it rhymes with stealership as in steal your money.

and getting oem might not be your best bet considering oem is the main issue. but there really isnt any aftermarket fan, switch, or resistor so we are all stuck unless you put relays.
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