My clutch started screaming at me this weekend. I'm confident it's the throwout bearing, but with 145k miles, I'm going to do the whole shebang.
1) Dealer wanted to charge $645 for "OEM" kit and another $600 for flywheel (and additional $16 per flywheel bolt. Is this just a crazy markup to encourage going to them for the work? Or am I buying the wrong thing? I ordered this Luk Kit based on searching this forum for $90... https://www.amazon.com/LuK-05-065-C...qid=1476213862&sr=8-1&keywords=luk+clutch+kit
I see the issue with the potential plastic TOB, I'm prepared to get a replacement at Autozone if that's what comes with my kit.
2. Luk says warranty is void if I don't install a new "Luk Flywheel" with the kit. It is impossible for me to get a Luk Flywheel to Alaska without exorbitant shipping fees. Would anyone recommend against grabbing an OE equivalent from a local parts shop for $80? I can't justify buying from the dealer for $600...
3. I'm obviously undertaking some serious work with this... Is there anything else I should look at doing preventatively while I'm under the Jeep with my tranny pulled?
1 - The LuK TOB is NOT plastic, it's a composite material. Mine has been in for some time with zero problems.
2 - Never heard of a clutch warranty being invalidated because the flywheel wasn't replaced. Sounds fishy to me, because if that were the case it would all come in one kit. But all you need to do is clean up the current flywheel with some light sandpaper and reuse it.
3 - I would replace the flywheel bolts. I think they are only supposed to be torqued twice.
4 - The job is not that bad. A weekend at the most. Think of the money you'll save.
5 - The LuK kit is the best and should last well over 100,000 miles.
I bought both the LuK clutch kit and LuK flywheel off of Amazon. You're not able to find a flywheel on on Amazon?
I would probably put a local parts store flywheel in my Jeep if I couldn't find the LuK. But if the clutch was operating fine then the fly wheel is probably fine. I understand LuK's policy, but a flywheel isn't going to kill a clutch unless it is badly worn.
The all cast iron TOB is 61093. Sold at Advance Auto (Carquest) and online.
The only other thing to do is the pilot bearing which is included in the kit. Not the easiest thing to get out so do some searching for methods. I bought the pilot bearing puller from Autozone, but had to modify it to make it work.
The only other thing to do is the pilot bearing which is included in the kit. Not the easiest thing to get out so do some searching for methods. I bought the pilot bearing puller from Autozone, but had to modify it to make it work.
I used the bread and bolt method when I replaced my pilot bearing. A little time consuming but it was simple and no special tools were needed. Just find a bolt slightly smaller than the ID of the bearing, shove some bread in the hole and hammer it in with the bolt. Keep shoving more bread in until the compressed bread pushes the bearing out and then remove the bread. White or whole wheat works equally well.
Yeah, not a single seller on Amazon will ship the flywheel to Alaska. I tried every one of them. The kit was no problem from Luk, but they won't ship the Flywheel. Must be a weight thing.
I guess the next question would be, leave the original flywheel with some sandpaper work done to it? Or replace it with an OE equivalent from local parts store, brand unknown.
... I guess the next question would be, leave the original flywheel with some sandpaper work done to it? Or replace it with an OE equivalent from local parts store, brand unknown.
Would it be likely that the flywheel lasts the lifetime of the new clutch going in? Last thing I need would be to replace a flywheel in 5k miles after putting all new clutch components in.
I appreciate your input, Coda. The OCD in me is going to have a hard time not replacing the flywheel after all the time I'll have spent under the Jeep. That being said, I'll take a good look at it and see if it shows signs of significant wear and try to make the reasonable call if it looks decent.
Flywheels are pretty tough, I've done clutches, with, without, resurfacing , sanding and just about any combination thereof and many above the 200k mark. Scuff it with some 60 grit, you'll be able to tell real quick if its got hard spots, but if its not slipping, it probably wont have hot spots.
Have it professionally ground if it's got hot spots ( hard spots ) or buy a new one...whichever is cheaper
I hear that. If it makes you feel any better my '98 had 250k miles on it when the clutch was replaced (release bearing was the issue as well) and the flywheel was still very serviceable. Of course the OCD in me wouldn't allow me to leave it in there and I replaced it just the same. :laugh:
Some folks also use wet paper instead of bread. Rip up a few sheets of paper and let soak in a bucket of water. Pack the opening with the paper and use a bolt just slightly smaller than the opening to tap it in. Rinse and repeat until the bearing is forced out. Paper is preferred (by some) because it is easier to clean out afterwards.
Just to update and close out the thread. I think I'm done...
I went with the Luk off Amazon, as stated. The composite TOB didn't instill confidence so I replaced with one from NAPA. Other than that, I treated myself to a floor jack and tranny adaptor as a present for not taking the rig to the shop, and things went mostly okay.
The biggest hiccup was the jeep dealer losing my clutch fork in the mail and costing me about 5 days of progress, but no other real significant issues. I had some U-Joints laying around, so while I waited I replaced the 3 in my front drive line. I probably could have done more, but I spent enough on parts and tools for the month, so next time.
Separating the transmission from the engine was the hardest part for me. But I was alone and didn't separate the T-Case and didn't drain any fluid. Getting the transmission docked was surprisingly smooth for me... probably the pleasant surprise of the whole job.
Flywheel looked pretty solid so I did not replace it. Will be returning new one to parts store over the weekend. The bolts also looked like they had zero interest in coming off, and I didn't want to by a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. So there were other factors... Flywheel did legitimately look good, I promise. Rented a loaner tool from Autozone, so the pilot bearing was a 30 second job. All in all, learned a lot. I will NOT be returning the Transmission adaptor to O-Reillys because if I do I know my transmission will explode and need to be replaced next week. Don't need that Karma.
First 6 miles felt amazing... Hoping for 147,000 more like those (life of first clutch). Pedal was SOFT (in a good way... I think). and everything was quiet. Scary quiet. Very cool.
Thanks all for the tips and pointers. Not a tremendously difficult job, didn't require any crazy tools other than the transmission adaptor (probably not absolutely required). Just time consuming. Learned quite a bit.
Just to update and close out the thread. I think I'm done...
I went with the Luk off Amazon, as stated. The composite TOB didn't instill confidence so I replaced with one from NAPA. Other than that, I treated myself to a floor jack and tranny adaptor as a present for not taking the rig to the shop, and things went mostly okay.
The biggest hiccup was the jeep dealer losing my clutch fork in the mail and costing me about 5 days of progress, but no other real significant issues. I had some U-Joints laying around, so while I waited I replaced the 3 in my front drive line. I probably could have done more, but I spent enough on parts and tools for the month, so next time.
Separating the transmission from the engine was the hardest part for me. But I was alone and didn't separate the T-Case and didn't drain any fluid. Getting the transmission docked was surprisingly smooth for me... probably the pleasant surprise of the whole job.
Flywheel looked pretty solid so I did not replace it. Will be returning new one to parts store over the weekend. The bolts also looked like they had zero interest in coming off, and I didn't want to by a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. So there were other factors... Flywheel did legitimately look good, I promise. Rented a loaner tool from Autozone, so the pilot bearing was a 30 second job. All in all, learned a lot. I will NOT be returning the Transmission adaptor to O-Reillys because if I do I know my transmission will explode and need to be replaced next week. Don't need that Karma.
First 6 miles felt amazing... Hoping for 147,000 more like those (life of first clutch). Pedal was SOFT (in a good way... I think). and everything was quiet. Scary quiet. Very cool.
Thanks all for the tips and pointers. Not a tremendously difficult job, didn't require any crazy tools other than the transmission adaptor (probably not absolutely required). Just time consuming. Learned quite a bit.
Sooo... Thread NOT closed out! Clutch feels great, when in 2WD...
Winter is here, with temps around 0 and snow and ice on the roads. I was driving in 4WD this morning, started feeling/hearing some tapping and then grinding. 4WD light flickered, and it *felt* like it slipped out of gear. I am admittedly not a subject matter expert on the NV3550, but with things feeling solid in 2WD, I'm assuming (and hoping) that it is something with the T-Case Linkage cable that I had to remove and reinstall during the clutch job.
I test drove after the clutch job and everything seemed to engage fine, but didn't give it a true test until this morning (was also breaking in new gears). Messing around in the parking lot I can get it rolling in 4WD high and low, but it will eventually grind and slip out of gear.
Thoughts? Should it be as simple as the linkage cable not being adjusted properly? I'm hoping so, but I don't have a good reference on what it should look like exactly. I have a Zone 4.25 Combo Lift installed (2 years with that, never an issue with some hard driving).
I'm with you, it sounds like your tcase shifter linkage is just out of adjustment. It's pretty easy to adjust, just one bolt with a 1/2" head holds it in adjustment so it probably slipped out of adjustment.
The bolt that holds the linkage in adjustment is circled in red. The rod it holds has probably just slid out a tad, you may be able to see a mark on it where the bolt was originally positioned on it.
Thanks Jerry... I'll take a look when I get home tonight. I'm assuming, with all the road grime and gravel we have, that I won't be able to clearly see the old marking.
If that's the case should I just adjust to what looks right, tighten, test drive, and make adjustments as necessary?
Waited a few weeks to reply to make sure things were settled... I got it in 4Lo, and pulled into garage. I MAY have gotten the adjusting rod forward a little (Not enough to measure or really even notice). It may have been that the bolt itself wasn't snug enough, as it came loose without too much muslce. So I cranked on it a bit and have been in 4Hi since, due to weather... And no issues... But I find myself waiting for something. The flimsy Z-Type T-Case Linkage/Shifter does not inspire confidence.
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