Clayton Long arms on 2" coils? - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 09-26-2015, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
hulud44
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Clayton Long arms on 2" coils?

Anyone running clayton LA's on 2" coils? Recently had a discussion about this and wanted to see if the arms have enough adj to manage this. Thanks


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post #2 of 12 Old 09-26-2015, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hulud44 View Post
Anyone running clayton LA's on 2" coils? Recently had a discussion about this and wanted to see if the arms have enough adj to manage this. Thanks
Why would you want to do this?

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post #3 of 12 Old 09-26-2015, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
hulud44
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I know someone with a clayton LA kit and 4" coils that they are about to put in. I told them how much better my Jeep felt after swapping from 4" to 2" coils. So I was just wondering if theres enough room for the Clayton arms at 2" ride height without any major modifications. Not sure the length of their links or how their TJ brackets are set up.

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post #4 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 08:30 AM
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Seems like a bad idea IMO.

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post #5 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hulud44 View Post
I know someone with a clayton LA kit and 4" coils that they are about to put in. I told them how much better my Jeep felt after swapping from 4" to 2" coils. So I was just wondering if theres enough room for the Clayton arms at 2" ride height without any major modifications. Not sure the length of their links or how their TJ brackets are set up.
I suspect that the reason yours felt better had just about nothing to do with coils, arm length or much else unless you dialed in new shocks to go with the new springs.

What else was done when you moved from 4" to 2" coils? Which 4" coils and shocks were you using and which ones did you switch to?

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post #6 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 12:05 PM Thread Starter
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Everything was pretty much the same except the coils. Slight tweak to the pinion angles, shocks where the same, still 14", just added some more bumpand lost some up for more down. Wasnt speaking of road manners of ride quality. The drop in height just felt more stable on real steep climbs. Wasnt lifting tires as much with the extra down travel. And they were just cheap Pro chump coils. Actually..... I did add the anti rock with the 2" coils so Im sure that helped a ton. But the original question still stands. Will the clayton arms fit at 2"? I have a mid arm set up I guess Id call it. and the angles are much nicer at 2" rather than 4".

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post #7 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hulud44 View Post
But the original question still stands. Will the clayton arms fit at 2"? I have a mid arm set up I guess Id call it. and the angles are much nicer at 2" rather than 4".
Where did you get the mid arms?

Assuming you find long arms with the adjustment range, I was thinking of asking if you'll need to cycle the suspension, to make sure you have enough bumpstop extension for the long arms not to bind, but, in your last post, it sounds like you've got that under consideration.

Do the 4-link simulators indicate a benefit from going to long arms at 2" lift?

Everyone has found that Adam at Clayton is friendly and responsive.

Have you checked the adjustment ranges on other long arms?

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post #8 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hulud44 View Post
Everything was pretty much the same except the coils. Slight tweak to the pinion angles, shocks where the same, still 14", just added some more bumpand lost some up for more down. Wasnt speaking of road manners of ride quality. The drop in height just felt more stable on real steep climbs. Wasnt lifting tires as much with the extra down travel. And they were just cheap Pro chump coils. Actually..... I did add the anti rock with the 2" coils so Im sure that helped a ton. But the original question still stands. Will the clayton arms fit at 2"? I have a mid arm set up I guess Id call it. and the angles are much nicer at 2" rather than 4".
Being one of those that likes to know exactly how things work, we just had the opportunity to do a mid-arm set-up on my assistants TJ.

We were in a position since it was readily available to just do difference aspects of his suspension rework and then go test it after each to see what the real changes were.

That means we were able to do JUST the rear upper and lower arms with no other changes and then go test it.

After doing just the rear arms, the increase in ride quality was there, but just barely. If you took someone who didn't know the rig and tossed them in for a test drive, they would have been hard pressed to tell the difference.

We did the same in the front with very similar results. The quality improved, but not nearly enough to justify the work or the cost.

Then we out boarded the rear shocks and then the differences all added up well enough to justify the work and expense.

To answer the LA question, I've worked on a few rigs with those arms and I suspect based on what I've seen for clearances, you'd have to do some serious tweaking to put the kit on with only 2" of lift and again, why would you? Arm angle isn't nearly as much of an issue as the internet would lead you to believe.

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post #9 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine_Cat View Post
Where did you get the mid arms?

Assuming you find long arms with the adjustment range, I was thinking of asking if you'll need to cycle the suspension, to make sure you have enough bumpstop extension for the long arms not to bind, but, in your last post, it sounds like you've got that under consideration.

Do the 4-link simulators indicate a benefit from going to long arms at 2" lift?

Everyone has found that Adam at Clayton is friendly and responsive.

Have you checked the adjustment ranges on other long arms?
This whole line of questioning reminds me of my buddy Brian who once upon a time spent many hours researching which rear Dana 44 would be able to be built to replace his 35. He finally went with one from Dynatrac and later after bending an axle discovered that they were not only custom to his particular axle, they were delivered after a long lead time at an above average expense.

Shortly after getting the 44, he also installed a Warn small hub kit for the front which meant he killed the ABS system that was the original reason for building the Dynatrac rear 44.

The question he should have asked was whether or not ABS was or was not important for his needs. Had he asked that first, he could have saved himself a bunch of misery and expense.

This 2" LA discussion is nearly identical in that it doesn't matter if it can fit or be made to work, the question should be why to do it and that answer is obvious.

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post #10 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
This 2" LA discussion is nearly identical in that it doesn't matter if it can fit or be made to work, the question should be why to do it and that answer is obvious.
Agreed, but in your previous post, you said something that will tempt a few of us:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Then we out boarded the rear shocks and then the differences all added up well enough to justify the work and expense.
Time for me to get away from Jeep forum and get back to work!

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post #11 of 12 Old 09-27-2015, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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My suspension is exactly where it needs to be. I was happy with my numbers when I made it. This is on a friends jeep. They already have the clayton arms. And being I felt more stable OFF road on the 2" vs the 4" i had I thought it would be worth it trying to make the clayton arms work at a lower height. Maybe it was in my head. But running a few of the same obstacles on back to back trips I though I felt a noticeable difference. These are 3-4' basically vertical ledges im referring to. I have videos and pics of my jeep lifting tires and teetering on 4" but planted firm on 2" in the same spot. But if its gonna be a whole can of worms with moving brackets and such then they may as well go all custom, which isnt happening in their case. Im not doing the job, i was just curious having never done a Clayton install.

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post #12 of 12 Old 09-28-2015, 02:43 AM
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I have a mid arm 3 link front and rear on my jeep originally set up with 2.5" lift springs, 11.5" travel front shocks and 13" rear outboard. My springs unseated almost 2 inches in both the front and rear. Ive run it like that a long time untill recently putting a set of re 5.5" springs because they matched the shock length without unseating. The jeep handled the same if not better jacked way up with the stiff springs. I went from having 6" downtravel to 3.5" i swaped to currie 4" coils with a 3/4" puck up front to fill unseated space and lj 3p rear coils. The up and down travel balance is nearly exactly the same. I dont have a fair handling comparision with the currie coils due to a 35 slpine spool i stuck in at the same time. The off camber feeling is no different, better or worse than the 2.5" was.


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