[RockyMnt1]

Thanks for asking that question Jeffjeep!!

Is there a recomended thread sealer that is being used?

I should have some Areoshell grease arriving tomorrow as well as the Grainger stuff, but I doubt that I'll get to it until Friday (due to snow). Anything with Aero or Marine in the name automatically doubles in price.

Lowes did not have the grub screw. The local "How to" store did ($0.90 ea).

[willydigger]

Yes there will be a dedicated grease gun. The jeep requires two grease guns. One for the Green Grease and the other for 33MS.

There is no recommended thread sealant. Get whatever you find. It will all be good.

[TheFog]

Originally Posted by RockyMnt1

Is there a recommended thread sealer that is being used?

What I did is used half half inch long grub screws and put ALLOT of teflon tape on 3/4 of it and on the very outside tip used a liberal application of red locktite.

Yea Willy the ASG 33MS is some REALLY smelly stuff and if you get it on your hands they smell for days.



FOG

[RockyMnt1]

Thanks again FOG and willydigger,

Everything worked as advertised. I got the zerk installed with out any issues. I was anticipating the "bottoming out" while drilling the zerk hole and sure enough, I felt it. I threaded both the zerk and grub screw (My first thread jobs), wrapped both the zerk and grub screw with the teflon thread tape. I flushed both holes liberally with WD-40 to flush out any metal. The zerk is installed with red locktite. I will be pushing the Aeroshell grease through before installing the grub screw to remove any metal particles. Having access to a drill press really makes this an easy project.

The next challenge is replacing the current CPS.

Thanks again for all of your help/advice.

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by RockyMnt1

Thanks again FOG and willydigger,

Everything worked as advertised. I got the zerk installed with out any issues. I was anticipating the "bottoming out" while drilling the zerk hole and sure enough, I felt it. I threaded both the zerk and grub screw (My first thread jobs), wrapped both the zerk and grub screw with the teflon thread tape. I flushed both holes liberally with WD-40 to flush out any metal. The zerk is installed with red locktite. I will be pushing the Aeroshell grease through before installing the grub screw to remove any metal particles. Having access to a drill press really makes this an easy project.

The next challenge is replacing the current CPS.

Thanks again for all of your help/advice.

Great news! Glad I could help out.

I plan to change to the Aeroshell in a few more miles. My early morning whine went away so I suspect it's cold weather related. I should have 400-500 miles when I swap the grease. I'll pull the shaft and take some shots. Probably after Christmas.

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by TheFog

What I did is used half half inch long grub screws and put ALLOT of teflon tape on 3/4 of it and on the very outside tip used a liberal application of red locktite.

Yea Willy the ASG 33MS is some REALLY smelly stuff and if you get it on your hands they smell for days.



FOG

I don't even want to know why you've got it on your hands!

[bertaman80]

I understand about marking the old OPDA carefully when taking it out so it can be lined up properly when putting it back in. What about a new OPDA? How do you get that positioned properly when you install it? Is that something that needs to be done with a scan tool at a shop? Thanks for all the info on this topic btw guys. Chrysler had replaced my opda and cam about 30,000 miles ago and I just thought it was a fluke but now at least I know that we have a solution to help prevent it from happening again.

[RockyMnt1]

Getting the old/new rotating wheel and the case of the new/old OPDA oriented the same is not a problem as there are 2 holes to line up so that they can be locked.

Getting the new OPDA installed with the same orientation as the old OPDA is going to be more of a challenge. I am going to take lots of pictures before starting. I am also going to enlist the use of some lasers and measurements using identifiable points along the outside of the new OPDA. I have also thought about using some plumb lines hanging down from above to help with the orientation. If all else fails, I'll have to find someone with the scan tool.

[OldenEagle]

Did you have any noise coming from this? My '06 has 10/05 build date, and this gear drive has begun making some noise sounding like a bearing squall.

[RockyMnt1]

No noise from mine (just under 50K miles), but I didn't want to be out the boondocks when it showed up either. As FOG said, it just a matter of time before this shows up. Given the extremely tiny amount of lubricant that I removed during the zerk mod, I am a believer.

My vehicle build date is Feb 06 with an engine build date of Jan 06.

[TheFog]

Originally Posted by RockyMnt1

Getting the old/new rotating wheel and the case of the new/old OPDA oriented the same is not a problem as there are 2 holes to line up so that they can be locked.

Getting the new OPDA installed with the same orientation as the old OPDA is going to be more of a challenge. I am going to take lots of pictures before starting. I am also going to enlist the use of some lasers and measurements using identifiable points along the outside of the new OPDA. I have also thought about using some plumb lines hanging down from above to help with the orientation. If all else fails, I'll have to find someone with the scan tool.

Actually if you have a new CPS its allot easier than that. All you do is take the plastic locking plug that comes with the CPS and slowly spin the engine with a wrench on the crank pulley till the holes line up in the CPS that is currently in the engine.

Then you put the plastic locking pin in just to make sure the holes are perfectly lined up then pull the CPS. Then all you do is take the new CPS and put the locking pin in it, slide it in the engine and lock it down.

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY don't forget to pull the plastic pin out before you start the engine .

If you end up with a check engine light all you have to do is pull the number one spark plug and slowly turn the engine till you feel compression on that cylinder. When you do keep turning it till you get the notch on the harmonic balancer lined up with the top dead center mark.

Now pull the CPS and recenter it and put the pin in it and slide it back in and lock it down. Remember all you need is to get it with-in 15 degrees of where its supposed to be and the computer will compensate.



FOG

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by OldenEagle

Did you have any noise coming from this? My '06 has 10/05 build date, and this gear drive has begun making some noise sounding like a bearing squall.

Mine squealed like a bad belt. I drove like that for two weeks before I found this thread. It went to the dealer the next day. Get one on order ASAP.

[bertaman80]

Mine squealed for a while also and I thought it was dirt in a pulley or something. Then I started getting a ticking noise and when I took it to the dealer they realized my cam was already messed up. So be weary that yours is on its way out. Thanks for the tips Fog on installing the new OPDA.

[bertaman80]

So Fog are you drilling the same size hole for the grub screw and the zerk fitting and tapping them the same size? I noticed that willydigger had two different sizes. Would the 1/4-28 thread be fine for the grub screw also? Or should I use the 8mm screw that willy was using?

[TheFog]

Originally Posted by bertaman80

So Fog are you drilling the same size hole for the grub screw and the zerk fitting and tapping them the same size? I noticed that willydigger had two different sizes. Would the 1/4-28 thread be fine for the grub screw also? Or should I use the 8mm screw that willy was using?

The 1/4-28 is too small to plug up the factory fill hole. The 8mm x 1.25mm grub screw is the best fit to plug the factory hole. But the 1/4-28 is the best and easiest size for the zerk.



FOG