[tkki1230]

Originally Posted by TheFog

I guess ya didn't read back a few pages where I detailed information from a OPDA that had 20K miles on it after adding a ZERK and switching to Mobil One 5W-40.

In a nutshell one of my friends I fixed a OPDA put 20K miles on it. When I rebuilt the OPDA for him I polished the shaft smooth with very fine sandpaper. He recently brought it by for me to pull it and check for gear wear. We found zero wear on the gear and the shaft in the OPDA didn't have any of the circular scuffing on the bottom or top of the shaft as seen before.

I've done a good bit of testing on several gears, oils and even greases and you would have seen all the details of my testing and results if you had read over the last 8-10 pages.

BTW I highly recommend this book to help you along with your OPDA.


FOG

I knew that I was going to ruffle some feathers with my post, specifically yours, Fog. That's why I put in the part about thanking everyone that posted in the thread. Funny how you left that out in my quote. I obviously didn't win your friendship or influence you in the slightest! I did read the posts about your testing and your friends unit, etc. Thank you for all of your very helpful posts, not only in this thread, but in all of JF.

The mod that I'm following is the one by willydigger because his fix is being documented with pics, miles, type of oil, etc. I really want to see pics of his OPDA shaft after 10k miles, especially the area around the bottom bushing and the groove he machined into his shaft. willydigger, if you're reading this, thank you for all of your help. I know that its takes an extra effort to post pics and stuff.

Again, I am very appreciative with everyone's feedback on this thread.

[TheFog]

Originally Posted by tkki1230

Sorry if I come across sounding like a prick

I understood where you were coming from with your post and had no problems except for when you put the above line and said there is no data.

I could have fixed my OPDA and never bothered to post anything on this forum, kept all my info about grease testing, oil testing with different gears, to myself and saved allot of time.

But I realized allot of people where in a crappy situation just like me.

When you said "a lot of what is being said in thread has no data, evidence, or pictures of gear wear after the modification". you basically called me a liar because I've given hard data. I've clearly posted the results of what happened with a OPDA that had 20K miles on it with 5W-40 Mobil One. I was in a rush to get my friends Jeep back together and didn't get a chance to take a picture of it.

As was just brought up, I work full time, take almost 20hr of college and still manage to work on this OPDA problem and post results for all of you guys. Often times I don't have time to stop what I'm doing, wash the grease off my hands and take a picture.

So just because there isn't a picture does that mean it didn't happen is it not "data or evidence"? What reason would I have to pull something like that out of my rear ?


FOG

[tkki1230]

Originally Posted by TheFog

I understood where you were coming from with your post and had no problems except for when you put the above line and said there is no data.

I could have fixed my OPDA and never bothered to post anything on this forum, kept all my info about grease testing, oil testing with different gears, to myself and saved allot of time.

But I realized allot of people where in a crappy situation just like me.

When you said "a lot of what is being said in thread has no data, evidence, or pictures of gear wear after the modification". you basically called me a liar because I've given hard data. I've clearly posted the results of what happened with a OPDA that had 20K miles on it with 5W-40 Mobil One. I was in a rush to get my friends Jeep back together and didn't get a chance to take a picture of it.

As was just brought up, I work full time, take almost 20hr of college and still manage to work on this OPDA problem and post results for all of you guys. Often times I don't have time to stop what I'm doing, wash the grease off my hands and take a picture.

So just because there isn't a picture does that mean it didn't happen is it not "data or evidence"? What reason would I have to pull something like that out of my rear ?


FOG

I didn't call you a liar. And there are no pics. Thanks again. I'm done.

[jeffjeep1]

Originally Posted by TheFog

As far as school I've got a degree in criminal justice and a degree in biology with emphasis on life sciences with a declared minor in chemistry. I'm stopping with just a 4 year in CJ but going for a masters in Biology. I'm kinda one of those obsessive people that takes 20hrs a semester. I wouldn't say caring and helpful more like obsessive and compulsive FOG

I figured a degree in Tribology. Anyway, I do appreciate your efforts and am proceeding to complete the FOGMod, too. Most likely with the addition of the HESCO oil pump.

Thanks again for your work and documentation. FWIW, my brother will not listen about the OPDA in his 2006, even when he was sitting in front of this thread looking at the pictures and some verbiage. Dealer changes his oil. At 69, I guess that is his choice. Since he just had a hip replacement on Dec 10, maybe he'll see a parallel.

[Sweeney]

Yes, Fog, we need more data. I'd like to see an array of thermocouples extending the length of the OPDA shaft at 5mm intervals to monitor thermal stresses. You also need to bore the shaft to accommodate strain gauges to monitor torsional stress/strain. The bore can then be utilized for spectral analysis of the metal to determine compositional changes due to the stress of torque and heat. A similar array of sensors should be used on the bearings also.
Every 7 miles the unit should be disassembled, the shaft, bearings and gear sectioned and mounts made for Scanning Electron Micro Probe analysis to determine if plastic or brittle deformation is occurring.

YOU OWE IT TO EVERYONE.

...or proceed as you are...

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by tkki1230

I knew that I was going to ruffle some feathers with my post, specifically yours, Fog. That's why I put in the part about thanking everyone that posted in the thread. Funny how you left that out in my quote. I obviously didn't win your friendship or influence you in the slightest! I did read the posts about your testing and your friends unit, etc. Thank you for all of your very helpful posts, not only in this thread, but in all of JF.

The mod that I'm following is the one by willydigger because his fix is being documented with pics, miles, type of oil, etc. I really want to see pics of his OPDA shaft after 10k miles, especially the area around the bottom bushing and the groove he machined into his shaft. willydigger, if you're reading this, thank you for all of your help. I know that its takes an extra effort to post pics and stuff.

Again, I am very appreciative with everyone's feedback on this thread.

I'll update with pics as I get more info. If I have the opportunity to repair more units, I'll get pics of the those as well.

I understand the issue of trust. Although we share a common interest there is still the reality that we are people on a message board. I've discussed this with people I've met and there is a certain amount of faith/trust you have to assume.

While FOG doesn't have many pics, I believe his conclusions. Partly because of my own ignorance and partly because (from what I do know) it makes logical sense.

That said, I do believe pics not only enhance the severity of the problem, but also helps people trust the changes being made when they see evidence of the failure and the solution. Up until I saw the heat damage on the shaft, I wasn't 100% certain the upper bushing was a factor. I'm still not certain that the lower bushing is not a problem. I did trust enough in FOG's explanation that the upper bushing was a problem and did the ZERK mod prior to any visual proof.

To add a few observations, my OPDA does make a knocking noise during start up. It started today. I believe this is in part due to the cold weather (15-20F no garage). It goes away after a minute or two. I would expect it to continue. After a few weeks, I will pull it and check the shaft for visual problems.

[chutta]

Last week I had a screech, but I thought it was due the total failure of pass side U-joint(replaced), but in the extreme cold last night leaving work, it's back.
Is Chrysler doing anything about this? I'm out of warr now, having this changed out once at almost 70k and now at barely over 72 it's back? Getting a o2 sens 1 code(0133), but nada related to cps.

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by chutta

Last week I had a screech, but I thought it was due the total failure of pass side U-joint(replaced), but in the extreme cold last night leaving work, it's back.
Is Chrysler doing anything about this? I'm out of warr now, having this changed out once at almost 70k and now at barely over 72 it's back? Getting a o2 sens 1 code(0133), but nada related to cps.

Chrysler is not doing anything. Follow the advice in this thread about how to proceed. While there is a lot of good information throughout the thread, read from page 60 to current. Most of the old stuff is covered and there is a lot of new information.

From page 65. Removal
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ch...l#post10423830

From page 80. Modification
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ch...l#post10559723

From page 68. Acquisition
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ch...l#post10467633

[jeffjeep1]

Thanks for the lead on mopar-wholesale.com. They had two OPDA in stock, now they have one. Discount worked well, better than the 30% from the other trademotion dealer I had been using.

UPS from Florida to Tennessee should be 2 days. Grainger box just arrived.

Willy/Fog - did you do the threads with the bottom tap only, or start them with a regular taper tap?

[pwmac]

Just curious.
Can anyone remember if any dino oil with ACEA rating has ever been mentioned on this thread.
PaulW

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by jeffjeep1

Thanks for the lead on mopar-wholesale.com. They had two OPDA in stock, now they have one. Discount worked well, better than the 30% from the other trademotion dealer I had been using.

UPS from Florida to Tennessee should be 2 days. Grainger box just arrived.

Willy/Fog - did you do the threads with the bottom tap only, or start them with a regular taper tap?

For the grub screw I use a bottom tap only. For the ZERK I start with a tapered tap and then follow up with a bottom tap. You may get away with only a bottom tap for both. The bottom tap has a thread or two taper anyway.

[JBWood05TJ]

Originally Posted by willydigger

For the grub screw I use a bottom tap only. For the ZERK I start with a tapered tap and then follow up with a bottom tap. You may get away with only a bottom tap for both. The bottom tap has a thread or two taper anyway.

I bought both a bottom tap and a tapered tap, and then ended up using only the bottom tap. It does have about 2 threads of taper and worked fine.

Look, I've said it before, but I think it's worth repeating. To both FOG and willydigger, as well as others who have contributed: Thank you guys for the effort that you have put into this project. I have read every page of this thread. I believe that the solution conceived by FOG and then documented in pictures and text by willydigger is the solution to this issue. The analysis and problem-solving is understandable and makes sense to me. And it is described in 'layman's terms' - it makes sense to me. It's very simple to do (except for that feather-plucking arrangement that holds this stupid thing on the block!). I've cut, welded and wrenched on my suspension, armor, interior, and on and on. But I'm not now, nor have I ever been an 'engine guy'. The FOGMod and documentation have boiled it down to a solution that I can apply.

For those of you reading this thread and hoping for a solution from Jeep, I don't believe a solution is forthcoming.

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by JBWood05TJ

I bought both a bottom tap and a tapered tap, and then ended up using only the bottom tap. It does have about 2 threads of taper and worked fine.

Look, I've said it before, but I think it's worth repeating. To both FOG and willydigger, as well as others who have contributed: Thank you guys for the effort that you have put into this project. I have read every page of this thread. I believe that the solution conceived by FOG and then documented in pictures and text by willydigger is the solution to this issue. The analysis and problem-solving is understandable and makes sense to me. And it is described in 'layman's terms' - it makes sense to me. It's very simple to do (except for that feather-plucking arrangement that holds this stupid thing on the block!). I've cut, welded and wrenched on my suspension, armor, interior, and on and on. But I'm not now, nor have I ever been an 'engine guy'. The FOGMod and documentation have boiled it down to a solution that I can apply.

For those of you reading this thread and hoping for a solution from Jeep, I don't believe a solution is forthcoming.

Even if you're under warranty. Odds are there will be no symptoms in the 3/36 leaving only the 7/70. There is a $100 deductible. You can get the part for that price and still keep the old unit for dissection. If you hand the dealer $100 they keep the old one. Installation, isn't that difficult (I'm sure JB may argue that) and we need old units to document. Do your part, send me your old ones so I can get "before" pics posted.

JB thanks for the kind words. If the situation was reversed I'm sure you would all do the same.

[willydigger]

I purchased a 14oz. tube of Aeroshell 33MS yesterday from SkyGeek.com. They "upgraded" my shipping for "free" and I received it today. The shipping was pricey at $7.86, but I got it next day. I haven't installed it yet and I'll take some pics of what it looks like soon.

Right out of the tube it stinks. It's one of the more odorous greases I'm been around. The texture is smooth and lightweight. I was concerned with my Mobilith SHC220 because of it's thickness. With the colder weather I think it contributed to the early morning squeal. I'm really looking forward to using this new grease. The 14oz. should last a lifetime with the amount of grease the OPDA requires.

[jeffjeep1]

Originally Posted by willydigger

I purchased a 14oz. tube of Aeroshell 33MS yesterday ...I'm really looking forward to using this new grease. The 14oz. should last a lifetime with the amount of grease the OPDA requires.

.

Willy, do you plan to dedicate a grease gun to this tube, or put it in a gun and purge as required, or some other method?

Thanks