Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 83 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Wrangler Forums > TJ Wrangler Technical Forum > Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this)

FS: Jeep Fog Light LED Bulbs! Several Brightness Options! Ring & Pinion's, Lockers, 4340 Axles, Install Kits, Ba~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

Reply
Unread 12-08-2010, 01:44 PM   #1231
keithert
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 2,022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
Winter fuel blend?
No, I first pulled it back at the end of July. It seems to be worse since then consistently. I track my gas mileage regularly on my phone.

__________________
Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
keithert is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 01:57 PM   #1232
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Anyone have a pic of the location of the oil sending unit for a 4.0?

Is this it?
sending-unit.jpg   pc080047.jpg  
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 02:06 PM   #1233
dickyson
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: california
Posts: 58
Quote:
Originally Posted by Volusiaguy View Post
Ok...here's my experience and the information I was able to gather over the last few days....I had the chattering monkey syndrome, pulled the CPS, had some unusual wear that was just starting on the gear and some markings that needed to be smoothed and polish off of the shaft by a machine shop. The shaft and bearing were fine. Re-greased, re-installed, and we'll check up on it in a couple of months, but it is running great and seems to be better than new....all for a total cost of $72.

Here are my ideas and notes to add to what has been posted before. Thanks to all of you who have been posting to this for your ideas and help in getting this resolved...at least for now:

Check your gearing using the instructions in this thread. If you have a problem (even if it's making the chattering monkey sound), contact Chrysler to get a case number so you can add to their embarrassment and data base:

Contact Us by Telephone:
1-800-853-1403
M-F 8:00A.M. - 5:00P.M.
(U.S. Continental Time Zones

Since they probably won't/can't help you without a part, here are your options at this point:

Option #1: Part number: 53010624AC Distributor Oil Pump ($112-150 from a dealer or from:

Jeep OEM Parts

Jeep OEM Parts

Mopar Parts for Dodge, Chrysler and Jeep: MoparPartsAmerica
Mopar Parts for Dodge, Chrysler and Jeep: MoparPartsAmerica

This part is back-ordered in the US/Canada/everywhere else. The number of back-orders was 237 as of 8/5/10. The companies listed above will let you order them, but you will receive an Indefinite Backorder Email within a day or two saying that they have no determined date for delivery. You may want to get on this list to have a backup in case they ever DO fix it.

Option #2: Repair package part number: CDC0E51AB $32

Chrysler did send out a Replacement/Repair package in 05 to their dealers to deal with this issue. The part number above consists of a kit that contains the bottom gear, a new gasket, a brass mounting flange, a mounting pin to hold the gear to the shaft, and a one-time drill bit to drill out the mounting hole on the new gear. (My gear already had two holes opposite of each other to use and they thought the drilling option was idiotic at best..
Take this kit and your old part to a machine shop, have them polish the shaft and install the new gear and check/replace the upper sealed bearing, and you will be good as new.
My guy did mine for $40 total. The bearing was in great shape, so they cleaned up the shaft, greased up the bearings again, put it all together, and we're good to go.


Option #3: Order the gear itself from the following vendors.

4WD Hardware: BOTTOM GEAR - RETAIL:
Distributor Drive Gear by Crown Automotive and Other Jeep Parts and Jeep Accessories by 4 Wheel Drive Hardware-RH3

Crown Automotive (BOTTOM GEAR - WHOLESALE):
Distributor Gear (2.5L, 4.0L) | Crown Automotive Sales
Part #83504635


Option #4: Buy or find a 99-04 CPS unit from EBAY or a junkyard for like 20 bucks and pull the gear of it.

You will also need to order the gasket for any of the options above (minus the Chrysler repair kit as it already has one included). The part number from Chrysler is J3181288. (I'm pretty sure that the gaskets from a 2002-2003 distributor oil pump would work too since they seem to have the same base. It's a flat, fiber, round gasket that fits around the base of the assembly, so you could probably find a substitute by trial and error at your local auto parts dealer.)


I did talk to my machinist about installing a zerk fitting to lube the bearings, BUT my 2006 model had a sealed bearing assembly and the location of the zerk would have led to nothing but a dead end. It seems Chrysler may have made some adjustments to the manufacturing process after 05, but I'm not positive about this. My Jeep was build on 12/05 and I still had the chattering monkey syndrome and unusual wear on the gear and binding on the shaft.

That's all I have for now. Post or PM me if you have any questions, and I'll keep you posted as this moves along.

Dave
Has anyone ordered #2 or #3? I called two dealers and they cannot locate the part# 2 (they say it doesn´t exist) and I called 4WD to order #3 and they say that the part# is only for jeeps 1999 and lower.
dickyson is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 02:15 PM   #1234
TheFog
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 476
Quote:
Originally Posted by dickyson View Post
Has anyone ordered #2 or #3? I called two dealers and they cannot locate the part# 2 (they say it doesn´t exist) and I called 4WD to order #3 and they say that the part# is only for jeeps 1999 and lower.
The part number listed in number #2 was a dealer to dealer only part as part of a technical service bulletin. It's not in production anymore, and because it was a dealer to dealer part wasn't allowed to be sold to the "general public" at the parts counter.

As far as number 3 the crown gear from 4WD.Com it works just fine.

Willy yes that is the oil pressure SWITCH not the sender. In 2001 or 2 they stopped using oil pressure senders and turned the gauge into a "idiot light". That oil pressure switch switches at 7psi and sends a on or off signal to the computer. Once the computer sees the switch change state it moves the gauge up to the center no matter what the real oil pressure is. As you step on the gas it makes the gauge move up in proportion to the rpm to simulate a real oil pressure gauge.

Keith as long as your check engine light isn't on your CPS unit is within spec. The computer will automatically deal with up to 10-15 degrees of misalignment with no degradation of power or fuel economy.



FOG
__________________
In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
TheFog is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 02:26 PM   #1235
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Here is a shot of the flush mount fitting. Not necessary, but I prefer it.
pc070041.jpg   flulsh-zerk.jpg   flush_zerk_install.jpg  
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 02:34 PM   #1236
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
Willy yes that is the oil pressure SWITCH not the sender. In 2001 or 2 they stopped using oil pressure senders and turned the gauge into a "idiot light". That oil pressure switch switches at 7psi and sends a on or off signal to the computer. Once the computer sees the switch change state it moves the gauge up to the center no matter what the real oil pressure is. As you step on the gas it makes the gauge move up in proportion to the rpm to simulate a real oil pressure gauge.
Hypothetically, if you remove it, add a tee, and attach a line to the upper bushing, would oil flow? You would have to remove the seal and add a return groove in the shaft.

Also would this would be the spot to hook in an aftermarket true oil pressure gauge?
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 02:49 PM   #1237
TheFog
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 476
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Hypothetically, if you remove it, add a tee, and attach a line to the upper bushing, would oil flow? You would have to remove the seal and add a return groove in the shaft.

Also would this would be the spot to hook in an aftermarket true oil pressure gauge?
Yes if you hooked a hose to it pressurized oil would flow out of it and this would be the place to install a aftermarket oil pressure gauge sender. If you are going to go with a aftermarket gauge I recommend NOT using a tee and either short or open the factory wire so the gauge will just stay in the middle.

The reason I don't recommend the tee option is because you have a 1/8" tee fitting with two LARGE senders on it. IMHO its playing with fire because if cracks your oil pressure is GONE.

As far as running oil to the OPDA as I've said before I think your trying to over think and over complicate the problem. With flowing pressurized oil all it would take is some sludge to block the oil passage and next thing oil is pouring out the top seal until you loose oil pressure.

FOG
__________________
In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
TheFog is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 05:51 PM   #1238
jeffjeep1
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 464
IIRC, the 2004 and earlier had a groove on the shaft. Wasn't this groove situated to raise oil up the shaft to lubricate the upper bushing? There was no oil hose to the earlier OPDA. With the splashing of the oil on the gear, the upward thrust due to the tooth angles, the groove must have run the oil upwards. Further, wasn't the seal on top of the upper bushing? As long as there is a film of oil, there is lubrication. The upward thrust is handled at the top of the gear, the horizontal thrust is handled by the upper bushing, which is why the 05 design needs additional lubrication from theFOG mod.
Fog and willy have done a lot of work/thought/engineering to arrive at this mod.
As far as additional oil hoses, my 1987 911 Porsche had a lot more oil hoses and tubes external to the engine than the original 1965 version had. These hoses and tubes moved a lot of oil to places where additional oil was needed, mostly due to engine dispacement increase and the associated need to shed more heat.
__________________
Jean - Wonderful wife
2003 Toyota Sequoia
2005 FA64 (aka LJ) Khaki
Heidi - Golden Retriever/Jeep Dog
jeffjeep1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 06:22 PM   #1239
willydigger
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 1,570
The oil groove in earlier models are helical and with the OPDA running clockwise, it would drain the oil out. I can't say for certain, but the older model OPDA's may have a completely different upper bushing assembly. I'd like to see an older model OPDA to truly compare the differences.

The gear spinning clockwise forces oil up into the channels behind the lower bushing. The oil must then drain from the extremely small clearance between the shaft and bushing. The groove allows the oil to drain easily, which should allow for a constant loop of oil in the lower bushing.
opdaoilpathzerk.jpg  
__________________
WHODEY
willydigger is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 07:52 PM   #1240
TheFog
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 476
The bottom bushing/half of the OPDA unit gets plenty of oil flow. The reason for the circular scuffing we are all seeing is because of problems with the formulation of the oil IE SM rated oil.

A page or two ago I made the comment about a friend of mine who is a aviation mechanic that I did a FOG Mod on his OPDA. After 20K miles we pulled his OPDA apart and there was no scuffing on the bottom half of the shaft.

The big difference is he ran Mobil One 5W-40 which is a oil high in ZDDP and is ACEA rated. There is a big big reason why the Europeans pulled away from the API rating system and started their own with the ACEA.

The API rating allowing great variances is oil quality and lubricating properties. This is the reason why car markers like BMW and Porsche mandate ACEA rated oils.


FOG
__________________
In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
TheFog is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-08-2010, 08:58 PM   #1241
keithert
Registered User
2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Northern Illinois
Posts: 2,022
I reinspected mine today after 6000 additional miles (54000 total). My worst wear is at what I call the 3 o'clock position. That is with the hole on the wheel pinned to the casing and the oil pump drive vertical. I don't think it is all that bad. I'm using Mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 now. I'll check it again in another 5000 or so miles.

I was very unsure when putting the unit back in the block that I had it positioned exactly as it came out. It was hard to make marks that I could repeat in alignment. If I'm off it is by maybe 1/32 of an inch. It seems to run well after putting it back. I wonder how much of a turn of the unit it takes to get it too far out? I'd really like to find someone with a DRB scan tool to verify my adjustment. A mechanic at a local Merlin shop claims to have one of his own. Maybe I'll have him check it with me watching.

__________________
Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
keithert is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-09-2010, 06:28 AM   #1242
WheelinOK
Registered User
2005 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 98
Nevermind.

Last edited by WheelinOK; 12-09-2010 at 06:37 AM.. Reason: I don't read thoroughly
WheelinOK is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-09-2010, 09:53 AM   #1243
pizzle
Registered User
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Here is a shot of the flush mount fitting. Not necessary, but I prefer it.
You'll have to excuse the potentially ignorant question here, but what sort of grease gun fitting is used for that type of fitting? It doesn't look like my standard fitting will work.
pizzle is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-09-2010, 10:11 AM   #1244
TheFog
Registered User
2006 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Galveston, Texas
Posts: 476


Its called a needle grease fitting and a adapter is just a couple of bucks.

Just be really careful with the grease needle you don't want to end up Like this guy.


FOG
__________________
In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
TheFog is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Unread 12-09-2010, 10:56 AM   #1245
pizzle
Registered User
2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Maryland
Posts: 108
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post


Its called a needle grease fitting and a adapter is just a couple of bucks.

Just be really careful with the grease needle you don't want to end up Like this guy.


FOG
Thanks, Fog....I'm supposed to be meeting up with willydigger this weekend to perform this mod on my OPDA. I'm still on the fence as whether or not to modify my current OPDA (provided the gear wear isn't too bad) or to mod the new OPDA I bought.
pizzle is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply

Tags
2006 , 4.0 , camshaft , replacement , tj , warranty , wrangler

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JeepForum.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid e-mail address for yourself.
Note: All free e-mails have been banned due to mis-use. (Yahoo, Gmail, Hotmail, etc.)
Don't have a non-free e-mail address? Click here for a solution: Manual Account Creation
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.


Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.