[chutta]

So at about 72k, <5k after dealer changing out only the stalk, claiming the internal gear was ok(yeah right), I'm now out of warranty and I hear a sound more like a little cat crying, which went away in about 4 seconds. Tonight I let run a good while, as I heard it again in my driveway going to work. The sound repeats itself maybe 4x, then goes away then a clackety, ratchety kind of sound starts regardless of gear/clutch position. Can't seem to duplicate while under the hood. I'm soon toast ain't I

[TheFog]

Originally Posted by lope

Do you think the factory gear on the new OPDA would hold up using the high ZDDP oils? Or will it wear prematurely no matter what oil is run?

Honestly I really don't know. From what I've seen over a 2-3K test where the previous gear was wearing REALLY bad, the new OPDA with the gear that came with it didn't show any wear as long as it was ran with a high quality ACEA rated oil.

When I did the oil test a while back I bought a couple of crown gears and ran them with different oils. The abnormal wear would show up very quickly with normal off the shelf dino 10W-30 oil. But with a new gear and a ACEA rated oil (5W-40 Mobil one) there wasn't any wear.

My answer would be just run it for a couple thousand miles with a good high quality ACEA oil then pull it and inspect it.

Even though wear deep enough to cause problems takes along time, I've found that if the replacement is going to exhibit the same wear you will see it start to form in just a couple thousand miles.


FOG

[jeffjeep1]

The availability story as of 12-6:
"Jeffrey: The 53010624ac oil pump drive you ordered is on backorder. At this time chrysler is not showing a release date. Would you like to keep this order active and be put on the waiting list or would you like to cancel the order?"

Still a valid part, though.

I'm waiting

[kgginslc]

Originally Posted by jeffjeep1

The availability story as of 12-6:
"Jeffrey: The 53010624ac oil pump drive you ordered is on backorder. At this time chrysler is not showing a release date. Would you like to keep this order active and be put on the waiting list or would you like to cancel the order?"

Still a valid part, though.

I'm waiting

Mopar-wholesale.com shows them both in stock at the moment (OPDA and gasket). (Status shows up after placing order - which I did yesterday.)
See post #1146 for catalog numbers.

[lope]

Originally Posted by chutta

So at about 72k, <5k after dealer changing out only the stalk, claiming the internal gear was ok(yeah right), I'm now out of warranty and I hear a sound more like a little cat crying, which went away in about 4 seconds. Tonight I let run a good while, as I heard it again in my driveway going to work. The sound repeats itself maybe 4x, then goes away then a clackety, ratchety kind of sound starts regardless of gear/clutch position. Can't seem to duplicate while under the hood. I'm soon toast ain't I

I'd suggest at least pull the cover (2 torx screws and it's done) off the OPDA and maybe if that's the problem you should be able to hear it better.

The best thing though, would be to pull it and give it a look. It's really not hard and there are plenty of good directions and illustrations in this thread on how to do it. If you hit a snag there's also plenty of good knowledgeable guys here that would be able to help if you have questions.

[dickyson]

Originally Posted by jeffjeep1

The availability story as of 12-6:
"Jeffrey: The 53010624ac oil pump drive you ordered is on backorder. At this time chrysler is not showing a release date. Would you like to keep this order active and be put on the waiting list or would you like to cancel the order?"

Still a valid part, though.

I'm waiting

I received confirmation from Mopar Wholesale today that my OPDA was shipping, I had placed the order on December 1st and when I called them this morning they said they had received 5 of those, I guess I was one of the lucky ones to get one.

On a separate note, I tried calling Napa for the distributor gear (DG402) and they don´t have it and said that even the manufacturer doesn´t have any on stock. Summit racing has a bunch of gears made from Iron, Bronze but I can´t find which one is for my jeep 05.

good luck with Mopar

[keithert]

Tonight I was planning to take another look at the gear on my OPDA. I turned the crank bolt until the hole in the timing wheel lined up with either of the holes in the bottom of the OPDA. The hole at the nine o'clock position in the case is much larger than the hole in the timing wheel so it would seem that by using this the position may shift some when the unit is put back in. There is also a hole at the seven o'clock position that is the same size as the hole in the timing wheel but it is set back by about 1/16 inch so the holes don't line up. Which hole are you guys using to keep the unit stationary when it is removed? Is the slop in the larger hole an issue?

[TheFog]

The hole you have it in (the one that has the protrusion from the bottom of the case) is the correct one to use. There is some "slop" because of one hole being bigger. What I do is put a mark on the wheel and the case after I've pinned it. The pin will help keep the wheel from walking when you stick it back in and you can use the marks you made to get it on the spot.

You can avoid this problem by using the little plastic locking pin that comes with a new CPS unit. And to answer the next question, no they don't sell them anywhere that I know of except with a new CPS unit.

But like I was saying as long as you make a mark on the wheel and housing and use a pin to lock it you should be fine.


FOG

[TheFog]

With the talk about the different type of threads, taps and the zerk fittings it got me to thinking.

The use of a tapered thread is for sealing but it doesn't offer much in the line of physical strength. So I went shopping at Grainger today and picked up some "parallel thread" zerks and a tap.

The parallel thread is just like a bolt it has no taper and there fore makes full contact with the threads from top to bottom. Another advantage is you don't have be careful not to run the tap in to deep and loose the "taper" of your threads. The parallel thread will give the zerk more physical strength so putting the grease gun on and off won't rip the threads.

2PA91 is the grainger stock number for the zerks and the tap is a 2LWL8.

The good news is you can change from a taper thread to a parallel thread with no problem. Just pull out your zerk and run a "bottoming" tap in the hole and thread in a "parallel" thread zerk with some thread sealant and call it a day.

Please stay tuned to the Fog News Network for more breaking details on the Crappy Chrysler CPS Debacle

FOG

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by TheFog

With the talk about the different type of threads, taps and the zerk fittings it got me to thinking.

The use of a tapered thread is for sealing but it doesn't offer much in the line of physical strength. So I went shopping at Grainger today and picked up some "parallel thread" zerks and a tap.

The parallel thread is just like a bolt it has no taper and there fore makes full contact with the threads from top to bottom. Another advantage is you don't have be careful not to run the tap in to deep and loose the "taper" of your threads. The parallel thread will give the zerk more physical strength so putting the grease gun on and off won't rip the threads.

2PA91 is the grainger stock number for the zerks and the tap is a 2LWL8.

The good news is you can change from a taper thread to a parallel thread with no problem. Just pull out your zerk and run a "bottoming" tap in the hole and thread in a "parallel" thread zerk with some thread sealant and call it a day.

Please stay tuned to the Fog News Network for more breaking details on the Crappy Chrysler CPS Debacle

FOG

I used parallel for my 1/4-28 zerk.

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by keithert

Tonight I was planning to take another look at the gear on my OPDA. I turned the crank bolt until the hole in the timing wheel lined up with either of the holes in the bottom of the OPDA. The hole at the nine o'clock position in the case is much larger than the hole in the timing wheel so it would seem that by using this the position may shift some when the unit is put back in. There is also a hole at the seven o'clock position that is the same size as the hole in the timing wheel but it is set back by about 1/16 inch so the holes don't line up. Which hole are you guys using to keep the unit stationary when it is removed? Is the slop in the larger hole an issue?

What is the point of aligning everything? Why couldn't you mark the installed OPDA location and match it to the new OPDA?

[keithert]

Originally Posted by willydigger

What is the point of aligning everything? Why couldn't you mark the installed OPDA location and match it to the new OPDA?

I'm just taking mine out for another inspection. I want to be sure it goes back in the same as it came out. I can't prove it but I seemed to loose 1-2 mpg when I first started messing with this thing. I've even had a dealer reset the can synch (supposedly) but it never came back. When I bought the Jeep in June I had 3 tanks that were above 20 mpg. Since I first took out my OPDA the best I've done has been 18.

[sukon]

I bought a obda on the 6th and it is being deliverd on the 14th looks like they still have them
matt

[willydigger]

Originally Posted by keithert

I'm just taking mine out for another inspection. I want to be sure it goes back in the same as it came out. I can't prove it but I seemed to loose 1-2 mpg when I first started messing with this thing. I've even had a dealer reset the can synch (supposedly) but it never came back. When I bought the Jeep in June I had 3 tanks that were above 20 mpg. Since I first took out my OPDA the best I've done has been 18.

Holy crap. You get 18-20mpg? I'm lucky to see 17, average 15.

Okay, I've pulled mine three times with no problems. I was just wondering if I missed something. Thanks.

[Sweeney]

Originally Posted by keithert

I'm just taking mine out for another inspection. I want to be sure it goes back in the same as it came out. I can't prove it but I seemed to loose 1-2 mpg when I first started messing with this thing. I've even had a dealer reset the can synch (supposedly) but it never came back. When I bought the Jeep in June I had 3 tanks that were above 20 mpg. Since I first took out my OPDA the best I've done has been 18.

Winter fuel blend?