Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 80 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 12-03-2010, 10:55 PM   #1186
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
There is about 0.135" clearance between the top of the upper bearing and the tone wheel without the plastic spacer. In operation, the tone wheel doesn't sit on the plastic washer as the whole shaft is forced upward due to the rotation of the cam shaft. The gear rides against the thrust bearing.

My plan is to machine billet 6061 T6 aluminum cap to fit over the upper bearing and retain the seal. The cap will be retained to the bearing with one or two o-rings. The top of the bearing needs to be trimmed down to accommodate the 0.250" thickness of the seal.

This design could also allow oil feed near the top of the bearing if the feed line entering the billet cap instead of the original grease port.

The feed orifice would be in the 1mm range and, yes, a helical groove down the shaft is planned.
You seem to have been doing a lot of homework on this. I'll be watching.

I'd think if the groove, whether helical cut or just a straight shot, was large enough and the orifice for the oil supply was small enough the seal would not be under much pressure at all. If you do this make sure you take loads of pictures. What a Rube Goldberg deal, I love it!


BTW THIS IS PAGE 80!


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Unread 12-04-2010, 06:18 AM   #1187
willydigger
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Pic heavy. I'll make a comment above the images. Final hindsight comments below.

Parts Reference:
8mmx1.25 Bottom Thread Tap
1/4-28 Start Thread Tap
7/64 drill bit (pilot hole)
13/64 drill bit (tap hole)
8mmx1.25 Grub/set screw 1/2 long or equivalent
1/4-28 grease fitting
machine screw to remove cap

I had a vice and a center punch and some other niceties. You can do it without them.

Here is a pic of the groove added for the lower bushing. In recent discussions this may not be necessary. I feel better with it and it was free. If you have to pay a shop to do it, weigh the cost/reward. The groove is 360 degrees 1 1/8 long.




First I removed the factory plug. I took a punch and added a hole. I inserted a machine screw and pulled out the screw with some vice grips. The cap is not hard to remove.






Once the plug is removed you'll see the factory hole steps down from the approx. 8mm opening to a 7mm-1/4inch opening. You can also see the "peanut butter" factory grease (yellow pic).






Once the cap was removed I threaded the larger 8mm opening for a grub screw. I loaded the threader with grease to capture as much metal as possible. Since the opening gets smaller I used a bottom tap.






From there I went to the jeep to see the best location for the new grease fitting. I decided a little left of the LDI label between the oil filter and the motor mount.




I started with a 7/64 pilot hole and went to a 13/64 tap hole for a 1/4-28 fitting.






Without drilling the bushing I install the grub screw in the factory hole and the grease fitting in the new hole to see if I could determine where the grease would normally come out. NO SUCCESS. If there is a way I couldn't find it. I tried high pressure air with no success either.

Finally I drilled the bushing using the same 7/64 bit I used for the pilot hole. Drilling the bushing was easy. I added grease to the drill bit to catch shavings (this in not the actual size drill bit for the bushing. It is meant to show the greased bit and metal shavings). I drilled the bushing through the factory hole.


Here is the final project. The white is thread sealant. The grub screw has red hydraulic locktite.






Final Notes.
1. I should have installed the grease fitting a little lower to help the grease gun fit on the fitting without interfering with the sensor head. It fits, buts it's close.
2. I may change the fitting to a recessed fitting and use a needle. I don't know if I like the extended fitting.
3. Remember the housing is aluminum so be extremely careful not to over-tighten the fitting or screw. The threads can easily stripe. Tight enough is all you need. This is why I think I'll go with a recessed zerk and needle.
4. When drilling through the housing, you will feel the drill bit bottom out. Don't worry about drilling too far. I was concerned when drilling the new grease fitting hole that I would accidentally drill through the bushing. Not an issue at all.
5. When cleaning the metal shavings out make sure to cover the sensor. It is magnetic and I have a bunch of shavings to clean off.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 08:47 AM   #1188
Peterpsc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Without drilling the bushing I install the grub screw in the factory hole and the grease fitting in the new hole to see if I could determine where the grease would normally come out. NO SUCCESS. If there is a way I couldn't find it. I tried high pressure air with no success either.

Finally I drilled the bushing...
Thank you for your presentation; it helped me to better understand the fix. If you don't mind, I need some clarification re "I drilled the bushing"...could you elaborate, please. Did you drill clean through the bushing through the factory hole?
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Unread 12-04-2010, 09:23 AM   #1189
JeepScrap
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Sorry if this is a stupid question but why bother removing the factory plug? Just drill and tap for the zerk. Can the factory plug not handle the pressure of grease getting pumped in?

Also can anyone provide the lifespan on their replacement OPDA WITHOUT this modification? Just curious.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 09:58 AM   #1190
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepScrap View Post
Sorry if this is a stupid question but why bother removing the factory plug? Just drill and tap for the zerk. Can the factory plug not handle the pressure of grease getting pumped in?

Also can anyone provide the lifespan on their replacement OPDA WITHOUT this modification? Just curious.
Most replacement OPDA's last around 20-30K miles sometime allot more sometimes drastically less. There is no way to give any kind of firm number because it all depends on motor oil used, climate the vehicle was driven in, lots of short trips or mostly long trips.

As I said earlier its so simple and cheap to modify a OPDA and considering the alternative seriously why not ?? Why risk 20-30K miles of service life when you can make it last the lifetime of the engine ?


As far as the first question why remove the factory plug, two reasons. The first is the pressure of the grease can pop the factory fill plug out and you will have grease shooting out the side of the housing.

Another reason for removing it is so you can drill into the bore from that hole. With the hole there, you can drill the hole for the zerk into just the reservoir this will allow you to fill the reservoir before grease goes into the bore. This extra grease in the reservoir allows for less frequent grease gun application intervals.

It also allows you to flush all the metal shavings from drilling and tapping, and the original crappy "ear wax" grease out of the OPDA.



FOG
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Unread 12-04-2010, 11:01 AM   #1191
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpsc View Post
Thank you for your presentation; it helped me to better understand the fix. If you don't mind, I need some clarification re "I drilled the bushing"...could you elaborate, please. Did you drill clean through the bushing through the factory hole?
I used a 7/64 drill bit and drilled a single hole into the bushing. I went through the factory opening. There is only one hole in the bushing. I suppose you could put two, but I didn't.

When everything was set up, I pumped some Mobil 220 Synthetic grease into the reservoir. I pumped it tight to were there was high pressure. Grease leaked from the grub screw area (no locktite or thread sealant was applied) and it tightened up the shaft from the pressure. I spun the shaft and removed it and found a nice glaze all around it and a small amount of excess at the top plastic washer. I few squirts every once in a while should work like a charm.

Looking at the below image, the red lines denote the bushing. The purple is the drill bit. The green circle is the where the 7/64 hole is. There are no other holes in the bushing.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 01:04 PM   #1192
JBWood05TJ
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Excellent pictorial willydigger, thanks for taking the time to do it. Really helps with the visualization of the fix that FOG came up with. Question, with the OPDA housing being aluminum and the grubs screw hardened steel, do you think that the screw would 'self tap'?
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Unread 12-04-2010, 01:38 PM   #1193
Slugger
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Great writeup willydigger, you said " There is only one hole in the bushing." , this was the one you drilled, it was not there before? I posted early on in this thread that I had my vin run by the dealer and mine had already been replaced. I continued to follow and was really pissed that the replacement was no better. Looks like this is the best way to go. My concern is that with 2 years left on powertrain warranty that if a totally unrelated engine problem occurs it would be denied because of this, any advice.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 02:18 PM   #1194
Peterpsc
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Thank you for your response to my question willydigger. I understand it now and will attempt fog's fix.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 03:02 PM   #1195
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slugger View Post
My concern is that with 2 years left on powertrain warranty that if a totally unrelated engine problem occurs it would be denied because of this, any advice.
I doubt they would even notice it. But if you want to cover your bases just buy a extra OPDA and when you have to take it in for warranty work slap it in. Or better yet buy the new OPDA put a zerk on it and run it and if you need to have warranty work put the old one back in.

FOG
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Unread 12-04-2010, 07:27 PM   #1196
bacon225
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I have a stupid question. Instead of a grub screw could you use a brake bleeder fitting . That way you could open it up while pumping grease into the zirk fitting until it flows out. Knowing you have the bore and reservoir full of grease.
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Unread 12-04-2010, 07:45 PM   #1197
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bacon225 View Post
I have a stupid question. Instead of a grub screw could you use a brake bleeder fitting . That way you could open it up while pumping grease into the zirk fitting until it flows out. Knowing you have the bore and reservoir full of grease.
The grease being pumped into the reservoir will force the air out into the bore as it fills up so there really isn't a need to "bleed" the reservoir.

Even if you wanted to "bleed" it a brake bleeder fitting wouldn't work. A bleeder fitting is designed to butt up against the bottom of the hole its in to close it off. The length of the factory port passage would require a bleeder fitting with ALLOT of threads on it. The other problem is when you bottom it on it would close off the hole that you drilled to the bore to allow grease to flow from the reservoir to the bore.

The Fog Fix is modern mechanical thinking at its best and as such needs no improvement


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Unread 12-04-2010, 08:18 PM   #1198
keithert
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
4. When drilling through the housing, you will feel the drill bit bottom out. Don't worry about drilling too far. I was concerned when drilling the new grease fitting hole that I would accidentally drill through the bushing. Not an issue at all.
What do you mean by feeling the drill bottom out? Is that when you hit the outside of the bushing? Why isn't drilling into the bushing an issue? Does the bushing rotate? If you are drilling through the bushing through the factory hole how does the grease get to the hole there when the zerk is 1/4 turn away?
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Unread 12-04-2010, 09:38 PM   #1199
Bigbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithert View Post
What do you mean by feeling the drill bottom out? Is that when you hit the outside of the bushing? Why isn't drilling into the bushing an issue? Does the bushing rotate? If you are drilling through the bushing through the factory hole how does the grease get to the hole there when the zerk is 1/4 turn away?
The unit is a double wall design. Look at his picture close and you can see this.



The purpose of the double wall is the area between the inner and outer walls serves as a reservoir for grease. Drilling a hole through the bushing allows a better path for grease to get to the shaft and more grease to get to the shaft. The grease zerk allows you to refill the reservoir.
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Unread 12-05-2010, 03:10 AM   #1200
jeffjeep1
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Is the 1/4-28 grease fitting a taper or straight thread?
Loctite on grease fitting?


What do you think about a "flush" grease fitting that uses a ball end grease gun coupler to minimize the "load" on the OPDA when the grease gun is removed? OR

A button head grease fitting?


Thanks
flush-grease.jpg  
button-head-grease-fitting-drawing.gif

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Last edited by jeffjeep1; 12-05-2010 at 03:35 AM.. Reason: Add photo
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