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Unread 12-03-2010, 06:50 AM   #1171
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tufmar View Post
1. Red oval--Yes that is a slit from the cut off wheel--that would be the solid bushing.
2. Green oval--Don't know exactly, I added more pictures that might help.
3. Pink--Yes that would be the path to the shaft itself from the factory plug to the small hole in bushing.

I added a couple more pictures here...I tried to show a cross section of the upper bushing assembly. I am still trying to figure out exactly how much of a gap there is between the seal and the bottom of the bushing. Since the shaft has that play in it (up and down), it is hard to estimate where everything actually seats.
Was there anything unusual about the bushing? Any ports or notches? It looks like it would be very difficult for grease to get to any gap in the seal and bushing. In the pic below how tight does the bushing sit in the housing? Do you think it is possible for the grease to get hot, change to liquid and reach the seal? If the green line is the grease, how does it get to the seal?

opda-dissect6a.jpg  
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Unread 12-03-2010, 08:18 AM   #1172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithert View Post
What is the large cut out area on the right side of the first picture? Could that be used to insert the zerk? I assume not but it would make things a lot easier!
Yes, a lot of folks do that. But if you mount the grease zerk under the ID tag you can get at it easier and also still fill/use the reservoir.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 08:31 AM   #1173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
Ive decided on my plan of action. I'm going to bring pressurized engine oil to the upper bearing in the OPDA.
I will remove the seal at the bottom of the upper bearing and make a seal housing for the top.
I have also pondered this idea. I think if you just cut a small groove the full length of the shaft from about the middle of the top bushing all the way to the gear the lube would run through real proper like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
This will require trimming the top of the bearing to allow room for the seal thickness unless it can be driven deeper into the housing. Approximately 0.125" will need to go.
Hint: In my plan I was looking at these issues.
1. Sealing the top in an area you can't really mount a seal
2. The shaft/wheel seats on the area the seal will be which won't work.

I think the answer is this. You machine a piece of DOM which could fit over the bushing that sticks up in the OPDG unit. Cut a seat for the seal in the DOM so the seal sits below the lip of the DOM. Now the shaft/wheel can sit on the DOM. You may want a slightly larger plastic washer between the DOM and wheel than what is there now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sweeney View Post
I will then add a tee fitting at the oil pressure sensor and run a stainless braided supply line to either the grease port in the housing or to the seal housing on top of the bearing with appropriately placed holes through the bearing to the shaft.
This will allow a predictable flow of oil to the upper bearing which will drain down to the lower bear and back to the sump.
Yes it will, but you left out the biggest advantage of the plan----the gears get more oil on them. Mo oil, Mo betterer! You would also want to implement a sized orifice in the line to limit oil flow. It don't need much.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 09:09 AM   #1174
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What size hole is drilled in the bushing? 1/16, 1/8?
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Unread 12-03-2010, 10:06 AM   #1175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBWood05TJ View Post
I ordered one of the NAPA gears online last weekend. But on Monday or Tuesday of this week I got an email informing me that the gear was unavailable and that NAPA could not tell me when it would be available, so they cancelled my order. I have been out of town on business this week, so I have not checked my local NAPA store. If they can't get it for me, is the Crown gear going to be a 'close' alternative?
Let us know what is the part# for the crown gear, I checked and there are several options:

Code Name Availability
J8133652 Distributor Gear (2.5L, 4.2L) Available
83504635 Distributor Gear (2.5L, 4.0L) Available
J3208615 Distributor Gear (5.9L) Available
33003890 Gear, Distributor Available
33004179 Gear, Distributor Available
83506515 Gear, Distributor Available
J3231391 Gear, Distributor Available
J8128462 Distributor Gear Pin Available

Replacement parts for Jeep | Crown Automotive Sales
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Unread 12-03-2010, 10:40 AM   #1176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickyson View Post
Let us know what is the part# for the crown gear, I checked and there are several options:
Replacement parts for Jeep | Crown Automotive Sales
Check out this post (360) and the surrounding pages.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/ch...ml#post9912225
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Unread 12-03-2010, 10:43 AM   #1177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
I have also pondered this idea. I think if you just cut a small groove the full length of the shaft from about the middle of the top bushing all the way to the gear the lube would run through real proper like.
Where do you add the Tee for the feed oil? Do you have a pic or good details of the location?

I assume you would angle the groove to take oil down the shaft.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 11:30 AM   #1178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Where do you add the Tee for the feed oil? Do you have a pic or good details of the location?

I assume you would angle the groove to take oil down the shaft.
I haven't done this and may not. But obviously you would tap into the OPDG unit at the plug area for the oil line. The tee would be at the oil sender unit which is aft of the OPDG unit. And a sized orifice needs to be in the tee. I'd start with like a 1/32" size hole. I see no need to angle the groove in the shaft. Just a straight 1/16" groove would work. It's just an outlet for oil.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 12:15 PM   #1179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickyson View Post
Let us know what is the part# for the crown gear, I checked and there are several options:

Code Name Availability
J8133652 Distributor Gear (2.5L, 4.2L) Available
83504635 Distributor Gear (2.5L, 4.0L) AvailableJ3208615 Distributor Gear (5.9L) Available
33003890 Gear, Distributor Available
33004179 Gear, Distributor Available
83506515 Gear, Distributor Available
J3231391 Gear, Distributor Available
J8128462 Distributor Gear Pin Available

Replacement parts for Jeep | Crown Automotive Sales
Crown doesn't sell direct to the public, though. I found it at 4WD Hardware for about $23.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 12:28 PM   #1180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JBWood05TJ View Post
Thanks Fog. .... I guess what I'm getting at is will grease pumped in at the ZERK dislodge the factory plug?

Thanks again for all your work and research on this deal.
Honestly JB I really don't have the answer to that. When I fix a OPDA unit for someone (local only already had PM's asking about mailing me a OPDA) I pull the factory plug and drill a small hole in the bushing into the bore then get a grub screw with red locktite and plug the factory fill hole.

Then on the side near the label I drill only into the "grease reservoir" not through the bushing into the bore and tap and install a zerk.

As they say on the 10 O'Clock news, in a recent development one of my friends that I did a OPDA fix for is a aviation mechanic stopped by about an hr ago.

He brought me a couple of tubes of special grease he has been using since I rebuilt his OPDA 20K miles ago. He recently tore into his OPDA to check the wear and found zero traces of wear on the upper bushing with this new grease.

The grease is made by Mobil and its called "Mobilgrease 28". Its aviation grade grease that they use for things like screw jacks that extend the flags and landing gear. Because of the type of service it sees its got a wide temp range.

Its really easy to find on the net, only downside is its $12 per 13oz grease gun cartridge so don't waste it on your chassis. I figured I would share this because the Cat desert Gold is pretty hard to find and it appears that the Mobilgrease is a much better product.

On a side note he has been running the Mobil One 5W-40 "turbo diesel truck" oil also for those 20K miles. When I fitted the zerk 20K miles ago I had sanded the shaft smooth with high grit paper to remove the very fine wear makes we have all seen on the bottom half of the shaft.

Well after 20K with the high ZDDP levels of the 5W-40 I was surprised to see the bottom half of the shaft had ZERO of those circular wear marks we have all seen.


FOG
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Unread 12-03-2010, 04:21 PM   #1181
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The OPDA is back from the shop. I've made my modifications. I'll have pics up tonight or tomorrow no later.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 04:47 PM   #1182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
Hint: In my plan I was looking at these issues.
1. Sealing the top in an area you can't really mount a seal
2. The shaft/wheel seats on the area the seal will be which won't work.

I think the answer is this. You machine a piece of DOM which could fit over the bushing that sticks up in the OPDG unit. Cut a seat for the seal in the DOM so the seal sits below the lip of the DOM. Now the shaft/wheel can sit on the DOM. You may want a slightly larger plastic washer between the DOM and wheel than what is there now.
There is about 0.135" clearance between the top of the upper bearing and the tone wheel without the plastic spacer. In operation, the tone wheel doesn't sit on the plastic washer as the whole shaft is forced upward due to the rotation of the cam shaft. The gear rides against the thrust bearing.

My plan is to machine billet 6061 T6 aluminum cap to fit over the upper bearing and retain the seal. The cap will be retained to the bearing with one or two o-rings. The top of the bearing needs to be trimmed down to accommodate the 0.250" thickness of the seal.

This design could also allow oil feed near the top of the bearing if the feed line entering the billet cap instead of the original grease port.

The feed orifice would be in the 1mm range and, yes, a helical groove down the shaft is planned.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 06:03 PM   #1183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
Honestly JB I really don't have the answer to that. When I fix a OPDA unit for someone (local only already had PM's asking about mailing me a OPDA) I pull the factory plug and drill a small hole in the bushing into the bore then get a grub screw with red locktite and plug the factory fill hole.

Then on the side near the label I drill only into the "grease reservoir" not through the bushing into the bore and tap and install a zerk.

As they say on the 10 O'Clock news, in a recent development one of my friends that I did a OPDA fix for is a aviation mechanic stopped by about an hr ago.

He brought me a couple of tubes of special grease he has been using since I rebuilt his OPDA 20K miles ago. He recently tore into his OPDA to check the wear and found zero traces of wear on the upper bushing with this new grease.

The grease is made by Mobil and its called "Mobilgrease 28". Its aviation grade grease that they use for things like screw jacks that extend the flags and landing gear. Because of the type of service it sees its got a wide temp range.

Its really easy to find on the net, only downside is its $12 per 13oz grease gun cartridge so don't waste it on your chassis. I figured I would share this because the Cat desert Gold is pretty hard to find and it appears that the Mobilgrease is a much better product.

On a side note he has been running the Mobil One 5W-40 "turbo diesel truck" oil also for those 20K miles. When I fitted the zerk 20K miles ago I had sanded the shaft smooth with high grit paper to remove the very fine wear makes we have all seen on the bottom half of the shaft.

Well after 20K with the high ZDDP levels of the 5W-40 I was surprised to see the bottom half of the shaft had ZERO of those circular wear marks we have all seen.


FOG
Thanks again Fog. I think that I'll go the same route and drill out that factory plug and replace it with a grub screw just to be sure. And thanks for the tip on the Mobilgrease 28 - that sounds like the ticket. Plus, you've got some really good data points with the folks that you've done the mods for. It really sounds like you have crafted a solid permanent fix. Kudos!

I'm just waiting for all the stuff I've ordered to come in and then I'll be doing this work. I'll post pics of what I find when I pull the OPDA, which I may do this w/e just to have a peek even hough I don't have all of the other stuff yet.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 07:37 PM   #1184
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I don't remember seeing or reading about this through the thread but has anyone not modded their replacement OPDA and still having luck with it? Just wondering since I noticed there are two revisions of the assembly.
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Unread 12-03-2010, 08:43 PM   #1185
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Originally Posted by JeepScrap View Post
I don't remember seeing or reading about this through the thread but has anyone not modded their replacement OPDA and still having luck with it? Just wondering since I noticed there are two revisions of the assembly.
The revisions don't mean anything honestly, there was nothing changed. I've talked to the head of a service dept. and he outright admitted that the new "revision" parts are the identical same and that he has seen several Jeeps go through several replacement OPDA.

Put bluntly if you don't modify your OPDA with a zerk to grease the upper bushing and run high ZDDP oil your going to have a problem sooner or later and its going to be expensive.

With how cheap it is to put a zerk on and run the right oil, why even chance it? Like I said just think of it as another "mod" for you Jeep. You can even list it on your Jeep profile as the "Fog CPS mod"
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