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Unread 11-25-2010, 09:10 PM   #1066
dickyson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
Well If you would have read the information that has been discussed in just the last 2-3 pages you would realize the answer to that question is a clear no.

The oil is only half the problem, you need to install a zerk and grease it regularly.

As far as the oil goes yes you NEED to run a ACEA rated oil like mobile 5W-40 or 0W-40 if its Eskimo cold. Yes plenty of people will say they have ran brand X of regular oil with no problems and that maybe true. But the problem is the oils are being changed all the time so the brand X oil you bough 5 years ago isn't the same as the brand X today.

As far as synthetic goes IMHO there is no point in running in your diffs, transmission, transfer case ETC. But when it comes to crankcase oil yes there is a big difference. There is a reason why the Europeans came up with the ACEA rating system and why you won't find non-synthetic oils that are ACEA rated.

Of the oils I've tested with different gears the Mobile 5W-40 "turbo diesel truck" oil has shown the best results. As far as the diesel label its also approved SM and ACEA for gasoline engines. If you still can't get over the diesel label you can also run 0W-40 "European formula"

I know some of those out there are stomping their feet with their owners manual in one hand saying Chrysler doesn't spec a 40 weight oil its too heavy. Well first off consider the same idiot that is telling you not to run a heavier oil is the same idiot that designed this crap-tastic CPS unit.

But from the scientific side the 4.0 used to be speced at a 40 weight oil before the CAFE fuel standards became an issue. Also realize that the 4.0 runs hotter than most engines and doesn't have a oil cooler so it does benefit from the thicker oil.

Oh and by the way Happy Turkey Day


FOG
Question: what about combining the hesco pump with high ZDDP content oil? will that have a better benefit?

or

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Unread 11-25-2010, 09:20 PM   #1067
SkylinesSuck
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That's what I'm doing after my last cam/distributor ate itself. It's been going for about 1000 miles so far with the hesco pump and high zddp oil. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Unread 11-25-2010, 09:31 PM   #1068
JBWood05TJ
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Thanks FOG. Just the kind of detail I was looking for. One question - why do you need to take the gear off before drilling? This isn't questioning the method - just pure curiosity.
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Unread 11-25-2010, 10:25 PM   #1069
TheFog
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Dicky I've tried several different high ZDDP oils and they are not all the same. You can put allot of ZDDP in crappy oil and all you will have is crappy oil with allot of ZDDP in it

The best overall high ZDDP oil is the Mobil One 5W-40

As far as the Hesco pump I haven't installed one but have found that with the Echlin gear, Mobile one oil, and a zerk there was no longer a wear issue. So since the wear issue isn't an issue I haven't tried a Hesco pump.

However I highly suspect that pump is designed to make up for poor oil, mainly the film the oil puts on surfaces. With using a very high quality oil like the Mobile One the issue of trying to keep the oil film on the gears isn't a issue.

JB The reason to pull off the gear is so you can pull the shaft out so as not to drill into it. Also makes it easier to get the metal shavings out of the bore.


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Unread 11-25-2010, 10:27 PM   #1070
dickyson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylinesSuck View Post
That's what I'm doing after my last cam/distributor ate itself. It's been going for about 1000 miles so far with the hesco pump and high zddp oil. I'll let you know how it goes.
Excellent let us know how it works out, I would also like to hear Fog's and willydigger's opinion on this setup
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Unread 11-26-2010, 06:29 AM   #1071
dickyson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
Dicky I've tried several different high ZDDP oils and they are not all the same. You can put allot of ZDDP in crappy oil and all you will have is crappy oil with allot of ZDDP in it

The best overall high ZDDP oil is the Mobil One 5W-40

As far as the Hesco pump I haven't installed one but have found that with the Echlin gear, Mobile one oil, and a zerk there was no longer a wear issue. So since the wear issue isn't an issue I haven't tried a Hesco pump.

However I highly suspect that pump is designed to make up for poor oil, mainly the film the oil puts on surfaces. With using a very high quality oil like the Mobile One the issue of trying to keep the oil film on the gears isn't a issue.

JB The reason to pull off the gear is so you can pull the shaft out so as not to drill into it. Also makes it easier to get the metal shavings out of the bore.


FOG

thanks for the input , I found the ZDDP content in the mobil 1 oils
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
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Unread 11-26-2010, 02:23 PM   #1072
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Well, I pulled it out. The gear looked very good. You could see some wear/shine, but it was consistent all the way around and what I'd say was defiantly mild/normal use looking. I pulled it apart and found some very mild scoring on the shaft at the top bushing area, again very minor. I drilled out the plug and tapped that area with a 1/4" X 20 tap for a new screw in plug. I also drilled through the bushing on that side where the plug was with a 1/8" bit. I then flopped it over and drilled through the housing in the area under the ID tag. This is a double walled deal and I only went through the outer wall here. (Thank you Mr Fog) I tapped it 1/4"X28 for a grease zerk. I cleaned it up and installed a zerk and before putting the 1/4" plug in the other side I shot grease in with the shaft in and forced out the yellow crap Chrysler has in there. Now the factory reservoir is full of good grease and I can pump a couple dabs in there every 5,000 miles or so.

The original idea I had to run pressurize oil would be an engineering nightmare as there is no seal at the top of the top bushing. In theory it could be done, but what a job.

I am glad I have run good base oil in mine since new. Mobil 1 Extended 10/30 and for the last 3 years Mobil 1 High Mileage 10/30. I was expecting a worn gear, but it looks great. Apparently oil is getting to the bottom bushing just fine as it looked perfect.
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Unread 11-26-2010, 02:43 PM   #1073
bonza
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to those who have installed a grease nipple and give it a shot every 5000 miles where does the excess grease go?
considering there is a seal below the top bush which I presume has the lip facing downward to keep out engine oil and no seal on the target wheel side, I would expect to see some grease escape from the target wheel side of the bush being the path of least resistance, however, if the lip faces one direction to keep out engine oil, maybe grease can pass the lip of the seal downwards

have noticed mine has a slight oily film in the area jst below the target wheel which I presume is oil seperating out of the factory filled grease in the unit
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Unread 11-26-2010, 03:42 PM   #1074
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Originally Posted by wl07 View Post
i had the squeal about a month ago for only a day or 2 and only for a few minutes until it warmed up and nothing since. should i be concerned and how do you know if this was already done. i got mine used with about 90k miles and have only put 10k on it 14 months. any phone numbers would be great info thanks.
Yup 100k it's time for a new one, dealership parts department look to be out $275-306 for a new unit and don't forget to double that for the labor charge.
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Unread 11-26-2010, 03:55 PM   #1075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonza View Post
to those who have installed a grease nipple and give it a shot every 5000 miles where does the excess grease go?
considering there is a seal below the top bush which I presume has the lip facing downward to keep out engine oil and no seal on the target wheel side, I would expect to see some grease escape from the target wheel side of the bush being the path of least resistance, however, if the lip faces one direction to keep out engine oil, maybe grease can pass the lip of the seal downwards

have noticed mine has a slight oily film in the area jst below the target wheel which I presume is oil seperating out of the factory filled grease in the unit
That is where it'll go if you grease too much. Pumping grease is is hard as there is little clearance there for grease. This is why I did the Fog method of pumping grease into the reservoir from the opposite side of the bushing hole. I guess, in theory, you would not need to drill though the bushing. This would make it like the factory set-up and you would just be putting new grease in. But the hole is a good idea as I think the factory method of lubing this bushing sucks rotten eggs.

The area between the target wheel and the base of the housing is about an inch so I wouldn't worry about a little grease getting in there.
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Unread 11-26-2010, 04:32 PM   #1076
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From what I've seen the grease mostly works its way up into the sensor housing. As long as you don't go crazy with the grease gun I don't think it will cause any significant buildup. Even if the whole housing did fill with grease it won't cause any ill effects on the CPS pickup.

What little amounts that may work their way down the shaft will be desolved by the detergents in the oil with no ill effects either.

The best way I've found to minimize putting too much grease in is to do with the engine idling. Slowly put in two or three pumps and it will evenly spread it up and down the bore.


FOG
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Unread 11-26-2010, 06:01 PM   #1077
bonza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
From what I've seen the grease mostly works its way up into the sensor housing. As long as you don't go crazy with the grease gun I don't think it will cause any significant buildup. Even if the whole housing did fill with grease it won't cause any ill effects on the CPS pickup.

What little amounts that may work their way down the shaft will be desolved by the detergents in the oil with no ill effects either.

The best way I've found to minimize putting too much grease in is to do with the engine idling. Slowly put in two or three pumps and it will evenly spread it up and down the bore.


FOG
that makes sense.

a few minutes ago I removed the plastic cap to see if alls ok with the engine idling (I thought I heard a squeak), you could do that when greasing and see that not too much is being pumped in
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Unread 11-27-2010, 09:41 AM   #1078
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Quick question for you OPDA experts...I have a a faint tapping sound and thought it may be the start of this famous OPDA problem. I put my hand on the black platic cover and I can feel it there. I have 35k with no issues so far. Would it be wise to assume that problems are right around the corner and I should just buy one now and replace it before it takes a sh**? Will replacing it ahead of any issues sort of save my cam?
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Unread 11-27-2010, 09:53 AM   #1079
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Originally Posted by JeepScrap View Post
Quick question for you OPDA experts...I have a a faint tapping sound and thought it may be the start of this famous OPDA problem. I put my hand on the black platic cover and I can feel it there. I have 35k with no issues so far. Would it be wise to assume that problems are right around the corner and I should just buy one now and replace it before it takes a sh**? Will replacing it ahead of any issues sort of save my cam?
I am an expert at nothing. But the way I understand it the OPDG deal makes a squeal noise if the bushings are dry. But, you could have a gear going bad which is the problem that can be more serious. Pulling the OPDG is pretty simple. I pulled mine yesterday and inspected it and installed a grease zerk in about 1 hour. Mine looked fine, but I could see that the upper bushing was not getting lubed properly. Look at the procedure for pulling it, so you can be sure to put it back in the same way it came out, and remove it and look at the gear. If the gear looks really bad the corresponding gear on the cam shaft probably is bad as well.
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Unread 11-27-2010, 11:35 AM   #1080
bbusch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepScrap View Post
Quick question for you OPDA experts...I have a a faint tapping sound and thought it may be the start of this famous OPDA problem. I put my hand on the black platic cover and I can feel it there. I have 35k with no issues so far. Would it be wise to assume that problems are right around the corner and I should just buy one now and replace it before it takes a sh**? Will replacing it ahead of any issues sort of save my cam?
I have heard of a few having a slight ticking coming from the OPDA but usually it's a squeel similar to a belt noise when the unit is starting to fail, in most cases it will warn you you just need to know what that noise means (not to mention you will more than likely start to lose power in the hills/mountains). At nearly $300 a pop make sure the unit is bad, may use that money for a better oil pump... what year is your TJ/LJ?... Never mind 06 LJ... yup you need to have it checked as many 05 and 06's are having the units fail early on and yes some have that ticking noise.
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