Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 65 - JeepForum.com
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post #961 of 1818 Old 11-09-2010, 10:13 AM
6Speed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Issue 1 OPDA.

I assume there is a wear issue or some other symptom. If so you need to replace it before it fails completely. Purchase one from the Dealer or another supplier. They are generally around $100-$180. I think the dealer quoted me $179.

You can replace it yourself, or have the dealer replace it. I was quoted $490 or something close for the repair before I argued about it being covered.

It is not rocket science, but things can get screwed up if you are not reasonably careful. If you decide on this route let us know and someone can help you through the install. You'll need a gasket also.

When you do replace the old OPDA, think about making some mods like FOG has suggested.

Issue 2 Gas Tank.

There is no way I'd have them touch it or diagnose it. I would learn to live with it. From what I understand there is a problem that requires the gas tank to be replaced. I'm not sure if that's completely true, just what I heard. I don't care enough to follow up.
I've already checked the opda and there is definite wear on the teeth of both the opda and the cam gear. I doubt just changing the opda will fix the issue since the teeth on the cam gear are also worn. I have pics at home I will upload later.

The gas tank issue I've read is covered much the same way that the opda is covered in that chrysler will replace teh tank for 100 deductible. Would you not let them do this?

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post #962 of 1818 Old 11-09-2010, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 6Speed View Post
I've already checked the opda and there is definite wear on the teeth of both the opda and the cam gear. I doubt just changing the opda will fix the issue since the teeth on the cam gear are also worn. I have pics at home I will upload later.

The gas tank issue I've read is covered much the same way that the opda is covered in that chrysler will replace teh tank for 100 deductible. Would you not let them do this?
Are there any other symptoms?

The cam gear is a pretty solid gear. If you are showing signs of wear on the outer edge of the gear I think you'll be okay. You'll have to decide for yourself. If you feel that your camshaft gear is toast, you'll have to pay to get it replaced. Below is a pic of my camshaft gear that the dealer said was okay. There is wear on the mating surface and a little shine on the edge. If you gear looks like this, 1. the Dealer probably won't fix it 2. Likely isn't too bad.



As stated earlier this is not a recall and if you are out of warranty the Dealer will be little help.

As far as the gas tank, $100 is $100. I'll save it and not top off. In your case, if they didn't help with the OPDA it will be more than $100 for them to replace the gas tank.
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post #963 of 1818 Old 11-09-2010, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willydigger View Post
Are there any other symptoms?

The cam gear is a pretty solid gear. If you are showing signs of wear on the outer edge of the gear I think you'll be okay. You'll have to decide for yourself. If you feel that your camshaft gear is toast, you'll have to pay to get it replaced.

As stated earlier this is not a recall and if you are out of warranty the Dealer will be little help.

As far as the gas tank, $100 is $100. I'll save it and not top off. In your case, if they didn't help with the OPDA it will be more than $100 for them to replace the gas tank.
The gear isn't toast, yet, but it is definitely worn abnormally with striations on the teeth. I haven't gotten any check engine lights, but there is a ticking sound coming from the motor, and occassionally the motor will idle down real low and run rough when it is just sitting idling.
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post #964 of 1818 Old 11-09-2010, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6Speed View Post
The gear isn't toast, yet, but it is definitely worn abnormally with striations on the teeth. I haven't gotten any check engine lights, but there is a ticking sound coming from the motor, and occassionally the motor will idle down real low and run rough when it is just sitting idling.
In that case, buy the new OPDA. If it is starting to effect timing, it's probably better to have the dealer install it. If not, I'll look back and update this post with instructions on changing it yourself. I've done it three times with no problems (well not changing it, but removing it to check stuff).
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post #965 of 1818 Old 11-09-2010, 10:50 AM
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First off, here is an image of the camshaft gear. You can see how much more solid it is compared to the OPDA gear.



Here are removal instructions. Review them carefully so you have a real good understanding.

Quote:
I got a PM about removal. Thought I would post it here for everyone.

Quote:
First off have a look at this thread if you haven't already.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wh...ml#post8096572

First I marked the engine next to the OPDA. A little mark with a sharpie is fine.

Next you mark the housing of the OPDA. This will make sure the housing goes back correctly. You can turn the housing and that will screw up the timing so it's important to mark it.

Finally mark the sensor wheel. This is connected to the gear that is wearing.

Here is the important part, the gear from the OPDA meshes with the camshaft gear inside the engine. As long as you do not run the engine (turn it over), the camshaft will not turn. The OPDA gear will be forced to go back exactly the way it came out. I repeat, under no circumstances do you ever run the engine with the OPDA out. When you put the OPDA back it it will be way off or right on the money. The gear mesh is not that fine. Think of a clock face, If your marks are at 2 the OPDA will reinstall at 12, 2, or 4. There is no 1:55 or 2:05. It will be right or wrong, there isn't a close.

This pic will help make it clear. (page 3 post 40)



Once the OPDA is out you can spin it to check for the shaft sticking. It should be smooth and not bind even a little. It shouldn't be loose, but smooth.

Check the gear for wear and check to see the oil contact. If you can get a look at the camshaft gear, try to take a pic. Odds are there will be a little shine on the camshaft gear edges. The area of concern is where the gear teeth meet. Chanced are everything is fine. If the OPDA is binding, order a new one.

The final step. You'll notice at the bottom of the OPDA is a slotted shaft. This will fit into the oil pump. If you happen to move the oil pump (twist it as you are removing the OPDA) the OPDA will not seat back properly. The marks will be off. If this happens (I've taken mine off 4 times, it happened once), take a flat head screw driver and turn the oil pump so the slot will fit so the marks match. If you run into trouble do not say "eh close enough", the marks need to match. You'll know if the oil pump needs to be turned if the marks don't line up with the OPDA fully inserted.

On a 1-10 (10 hard) this is a 3, only because the bolt is hard to get to.

If you tear the gasket, you can get another at the dealer or just add a little RTV. I didn't tear mine after removing it twice. You can run it without the gasket if you need to replace it.
Edit:
Here is a good pic of the camshaft gear and the oil pump slot. (Page 8 post 115)


Here is a new OPDA with gear and slotted shaft end.

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post #966 of 1818 Old 11-11-2010, 04:54 AM
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Last night I switched to Mobil1 10w30 high mileage oil. That way I keep it at the recommended weight for warranty purposes but still get a little higher ZDDP. That oil has 1000 PPM of ZDDP.

Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
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post #967 of 1818 Old 11-11-2010, 06:50 AM
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Is doing a wiggle test on the OPDA wheel a reliable way to tell if there is excess wear occurring? I can only turn the wheel on mine about 1/16 inch. Will the wheel turn more as the gears wear?

Current: 2005 Wrangler Unlimited - Past: 90 and 92 Trackers and 98 Wrangler SE
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post #968 of 1818 Old 11-11-2010, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by keithert View Post
Is doing a wiggle test on the OPDA wheel a reliable way to tell if there is excess wear occurring? I can only turn the wheel on mine about 1/16 inch. Will the wheel turn more as the gears wear?
I would have to pull it. When mine went bad, the shaft would get tight at a certain spot and then free up again. I would think as the gear wears the gap would increase, but it's easy to pull it and know for sure.
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post #969 of 1818 Old 11-13-2010, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keithert View Post
Is doing a wiggle test on the OPDA wheel a reliable way to tell if there is excess wear occurring? I can only turn the wheel on mine about 1/16 inch. Will the wheel turn more as the gears wear?
They all wiggle a little, even when both gears are brand new. When mine was diagnosed the tech said the spec was 2 degrees of play, and mine had over 6 degrees.


I started this thread and my Jeep was NOT UNDER WARRANTY when all of this happened. Chrysler PAID for all of it minus the $100 deductible. All it takes is some phone calls and a service writer at the stealership willing to go to bat for you.

2006 LJ Rubicon=4" lift, 305/70/16 Mickey T.'s MTZs, etc...
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post #970 of 1818 Old 11-13-2010, 11:28 AM
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i had the squeal about a month ago for only a day or 2 and only for a few minutes until it warmed up and nothing since. should i be concerned and how do you know if this was already done. i got mine used with about 90k miles and have only put 10k on it 14 months. any phone numbers would be great info thanks.
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post #971 of 1818 Old 11-13-2010, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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Call Chrysler customer service and go from there. I posted the information somewhere waaaay back in this thread. I don't understand why more of you guys don't pursue this with Chrysler. They know it's a problem. They're not going to say "yes" the first time you bring it up. Be persistent, talk to managers' managers' managers. If that seems like too much work, then go ahead and pay the $1000 to fix it.

2006 LJ Rubicon=4" lift, 305/70/16 Mickey T.'s MTZs, etc...
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post #972 of 1818 Old 11-13-2010, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElJaynocibuR View Post
Call Chrysler customer service and go from there. I posted the information somewhere waaaay back in this thread. I don't understand why more of you guys don't pursue this with Chrysler. They know it's a problem. They're not going to say "yes" the first time you bring it up. Be persistent, talk to managers' managers' managers. If that seems like too much work, then go ahead and pay the $1000 to fix it.
I've talked to several local guys here and they have dealt with Chrysler paying for it. At first when the issue started happening and was on a small number of vehicles they were paying off with a little arm twisting.

But since the number of Jeeps with this problem has become very large they are clamping down hard and getting them to cover it outside of warranty is almost non-existent anymore. Heck even Chrysler is starting to get pissy with the guys that have extended warranties. They are doing "we need to see EVERY oil change receipt" routine.

If you call just about every Jeep dealership has a 05-06 sitting around waiting to have damage fixed because of the CPS/oil drive issue. Or just ask the guy at your local parts counter about the CPS unit and how many are back ordered just for vehicles that are sitting broken at dealerships.

As I have said several times, if you own a 05-06 you NEED to inspect your CPS/oil drive gear. You also need to install a zerk or get someone to do it for you and run a high ZDDP oil. With as hard as it is to get these CPS units you need to fix and protect the one you have instead of waiting till it fails. Because when it does your going to be without a Jeep like allot of other people are.

Even if your CPS unit is squealing, all hope isn't lost. You can have a machine shop press in new bushings top to bottom and fit it with a zerk and a new Napa Echlin gear on the bottom.

Like I said several times its a crappy deal and Chrysler is hanging us out to dry on this one. So instead of just getting pissed about it, do like I did and think of it as another "mod" for you jeep.



On a side note either tomorrow or Monday I'm installing a Zerk on a friends CPS unit and will document it with pictures and a how-to for everyone that wants to.


FOG

In memory of Samantha Sue 1998 to Dec-16-10 at 2:15PM. She may have had 4 legs and a tail but she was the best friend I ever had and helped me through some really tough times. I hope to see her again one day.
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post #973 of 1818 Old 11-14-2010, 07:36 AM
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Specs on the bushing type (measurements and material) would be great. Also zerk sizes and grease recommendations.

Thanks a lot for all your time and effort with this issue.
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post #974 of 1818 Old 11-14-2010, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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This problem makes a 5.3L GM swap look even better.

2006 LJ Rubicon=4" lift, 305/70/16 Mickey T.'s MTZs, etc...
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post #975 of 1818 Old 11-14-2010, 09:04 AM
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Well I pulled mine just to take a peek yesterday knowing it would look perfect. Only 21,000 miles running Mobil 1 and no symptoms at all. Well all is not good the gear looks as bad as all the others posted here the cam gear has some wear but not as bad. The shaft on the OPDA is free and smooth no problems at all just the drive gear.
Now what to do?. Chrysler will not help its a salvage title and I am the the 4 owner so I am on my own. The techs at the local dealer did not even know what they were looking at when I showed them the part and said the only way that could happen is to run it out of oil and it my fault. So i am going to do it all on my own. The OPDA is no problem for me to replace. But how about the Cam can it be done shade tree style by me. What all do i need to address and get for the swap?
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