Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 64 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 10-31-2010, 04:35 PM   #946
SkylinesSuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbob View Post
I'd be very careful about putting any oil in that does not meet the specs Jeep has listed. I'd hate to have them void the warranty due to having the wrong oil in the Jeep. But, I have not hear of that happening yet. Many folks have had this problem with the poor oils that are sold now for a flat tappet engine. Mobil 1 High Mileage full syn oil is a ACEA 3 oil and meets all the criteria for Jeep IIRC. Of course you need to use the approved weight oil. I think a higher volume oil pump would help as well.
Do you honestly think a dealership is going to sample your oil and send it off to be tested in an attempt not to pay out a warranty claim? I find that pretty doubtful. Also, the high volume oil pump could (and probably is) contributing to the problem, not helping it. It puts a lot more stress on the gear seeing as how it's pretty much the only thing providing any real resistance to the gear spinning.

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Unread 10-31-2010, 06:56 PM   #947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6Speed View Post
Just pulled mine and it has the wear on teh gear. It is an 06 model Rubicon with 61k miles. I have been getting rough idle every once in a while, and it feels like there is a dip in power for about a second or two as soon as I take off from stop lights. I also have a very quiet ticking sound.

Only problem now is I can't get my marks to line back up when re-installing the distributor. Any advice?
Use a long flat bladed screwdriver, and turn your oil pump drive slot 10-15 degree's counter-clockwise. Should drop right back in!
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Unread 11-04-2010, 07:15 AM   #948
JrJmisn
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So where is everyone getting the new assembly? I am ready to get a new one and drop it in. The ticking hasnt stoppped and I want to get at it and get it replaced before it gets worse. Are they available ANYWHERE other than from the dealer?
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Unread 11-04-2010, 07:34 AM   #949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeep View Post
Use a long flat bladed screwdriver, and turn your oil pump drive slot 10-15 degree's counter-clockwise. Should drop right back in!
That did the trick! Thanks!!
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Unread 11-08-2010, 08:32 AM   #950
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So, the solution is running an oil with higher ZDDP levels? Swap on the oil pump as well........ Thinking of doing a little preventative maintenance work here.
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Unread 11-08-2010, 08:57 AM   #951
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I'm not sure that swapping out the oil pump to a Hesco version and change to an oil with higher zddp levels (or add zddp) is the solution but frankly what else can you do?

FWIW, that's what I did although i recognize this problem seems to be limited to 05/06 4.0 engine, which argues against the zddp/pump as a "solution".
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Unread 11-08-2010, 09:22 AM   #952
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpsc View Post
this problem seems to be limited to 05/06 4.0 engine, which argues against the zddp/pump as a "solution".
First off I hate it when people make inaccurate statements because they just don't want to read more than the last 1 or 2 pages of the thread.

That being said it isn't just the 05-06 engines that are having excessive wear on the CPS/Oil drive gears/Cam gear.

If you look around on allot of the 4.0 Stroker message boards you will find a crap load of guys with engines that are suffering the same nature of gear failure. Even guys with old ford and chevy engines with worm gear style oil pump distributor drive systems are having failures.

The only reason the 05-06 is getting most of the attention is because of the lack of lubrication of the upper bushing which can be fixed with the installation of a ZERK fitting to routinely grease the bushing. This binding of the upper zerk has acellerated the wear on the gear and combine that with supply issues from D/C with new parts and that's why the 05-06 is the most talked about.

The answer is lubing the upper bushing and running a high quality oil with high levels of ZDDP plus installing a high quality gear like Echlin.

As I said at the start all this is talked about in the last 5-10 pages of this thread.


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Unread 11-08-2010, 09:31 AM   #953
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FOG, do you have a write up on the zerk install? I only have one OPDA to play with so I want it to be right.
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Unread 11-08-2010, 09:46 AM   #954
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TheFog : "First off I hate it when people make inaccurate statements because they just don't want to read more than the last 1 or 2 pages of the thread."

I have over time read the entire thread and I don't disagree with TheFog. If you noticed I said "seems" like the problem is limited to 05/06 and I'm aware others have had problems...it just "seems" like most of the discussion here has been limited to 05/06.

I think Fog has an excellent idea and my earlier post wasn't meant to dismiss his idea although I have a question. Does the Hesco pump, with its ability to squirt oil directly on the gear provide the same protection as adding grease through an installed Zerk?
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Unread 11-08-2010, 04:01 PM   #955
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peterpsc View Post
Does the Hesco pump, with its ability to squirt oil directly on the gear provide the same protection as adding grease through an installed Zerk?
No the Hesco pump sprays oil on the gears is meant to keep a thick oil film on them to prevent wear.

The issue with the zerk is because in 05 they changed to a new style CPS/oil pump drive assembly. This new assembly doesn't carry oil up the shaft to the top half of the assembly. Instead the upper half of the shaft is sealed from the bottom half and the top half is "permanently lubricated".

This so called permanent lubrication doesn't work at all and causes significant drag on the shaft which greatly increases the gear load and wear.

With the installation of a zerk we can pump grease into the top bushing every couple thousand miles to prevent the upper bushing from binding/seizing up.


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Unread 11-08-2010, 07:07 PM   #956
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Having found out about this issue today I am needless to say pretty worried. I hate having anything to do with the stealership. Is the problem hit or miss as in when I should expect it. 05 tj 6/05 build date. 60k miles and she runs like a top. starts perfectly every time in 90 degree heat and -10 degree cold. If my gears were to go bad wouldnt it have happened? A little worried about getting proper timing after removing gear. Thanks for the info.
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Unread 11-09-2010, 05:18 AM   #957
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CreeperJeeper7 View Post
A little worried about getting proper timing after removing gear.
I had the same worry but I pulled & checked mine a week ago and it was no problem. Mark the shaft relative to the house and the housing relative to the block and you'll be fine. Also use something (I used an allen wrench) in the alignment hole. Mine didn't throw a cold and is running fine.

Mine had wear on it but it wasn't at all severe so I'm not overly worried. The shaft also spun with minimal resistance. My original gear did get chewed apart and ruined the cam with it but was replaced under the 7/70k warranty.
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Unread 11-09-2010, 07:21 AM   #958
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For sure not a '05/'06 problem only. This is effecting MANY I6 jeep motors, from stock to strokers alike.
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Unread 11-09-2010, 07:30 AM   #959
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Took my jeep to the dealership today to have it diagnosed. They said that my warranty was out and regardless of if there were a TSB on the issue, it wasn't covered under my warranty. The Jeep currently has 61k miles on it. They are charging me 79.00 to diagnose the oil pump drive gear, and another 79 to diagnose the fuel spilling out of tank issue. I am a little upset about this. I asked them..."you are charging me 79.00 to watch gas shoot out of my gas tank?" Then the service manager walked up and said..."your jeep is out of warranty, I dont' know what to tell you. You had the option to buy an extended warranty when you bought it." Seriously? You're going to say that to me? There are TSB's out on both of these issues and you're going to treat me like this? Ridiculous

Just got off the phone with Chrysler customer service. The lady said there were no TSB's related to my vin number and if any parts were determined to need replacement while it was at the dealership, I would have to cover all costs up front and then send in my receipts and a copies of everything to get some "assistance" from Chrysler. I mentioned to her about the 100 dollar deductible that some of you were talking about in earlier posts and she is saying that is only for vehicles still under warranty. Ok...so I need some help...what is my next step to get this issue taken care of?
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Unread 11-09-2010, 10:04 AM   #960
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6Speed View Post
Took my jeep to the dealership today to have it diagnosed. They said that my warranty was out and regardless of if there were a TSB on the issue, it wasn't covered under my warranty. The Jeep currently has 61k miles on it. They are charging me 79.00 to diagnose the oil pump drive gear, and another 79 to diagnose the fuel spilling out of tank issue. I am a little upset about this. I asked them..."you are charging me 79.00 to watch gas shoot out of my gas tank?" Then the service manager walked up and said..."your jeep is out of warranty, I dont' know what to tell you. You had the option to buy an extended warranty when you bought it." Seriously? You're going to say that to me? There are TSB's out on both of these issues and you're going to treat me like this? Ridiculous

Just got off the phone with Chrysler customer service. The lady said there were no TSB's related to my vin number and if any parts were determined to need replacement while it was at the dealership, I would have to cover all costs up front and then send in my receipts and a copies of everything to get some "assistance" from Chrysler. I mentioned to her about the 100 dollar deductible that some of you were talking about in earlier posts and she is saying that is only for vehicles still under warranty. Ok...so I need some help...what is my next step to get this issue taken care of?
Issue 1 OPDA.

I assume there is a wear issue or some other symptom. If so you need to replace it before it fails completely. Purchase one from the Dealer or another supplier. They are generally around $100-$180. I think the dealer quoted me $179.

You can replace it yourself, or have the dealer replace it. I was quoted $490 or something close for the repair before I argued about it being covered.

It is not rocket science, but things can get screwed up if you are not reasonably careful. If you decide on this route let us know and someone can help you through the install. You'll need a gasket also.

When you do replace the old OPDA, think about making some mods like FOG has suggested.

Issue 2 Gas Tank.

There is no way I'd have them touch it or diagnose it. I would learn to live with it. From what I understand there is a problem that requires the gas tank to be replaced. I'm not sure if that's completely true, just what I heard. I don't care enough to follow up.
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