post #931 of Old 10-21-2010, 11:39 AM
odinseye84
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I would def. use a HDEO like mobil 1 turbodiesel truck 5w40 in the 4.0. Has a high amount of zinc, etc, and its still API rated for use in gas engines.

On the bobistheoilguy, oils that were a bit thicker always did better on used oil analysis than Xw30 weight oils.

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post #932 of Old 10-21-2010, 02:48 PM
dickyson
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Hello everyone,

after reading this thread, I am getting psychologically prepared to check my distributor to see if it has any wear. So far it is rubi 2005 with 57,000 miles on it, has never thrown a code. The only problem is that I am currently in Mexico and oh boy....one thing you donīt want to do is mess with the dealer

My question is in case there is wear (making sure to mark the distributor and the motor and luckily when I put it back, there wonīt be any changes in timing), if I decide to just fix it my self, will I just need to replace that part if it is worn (P/N 53010624AC) or would you suggest to change anything else? Replacing the same part number I would imagine D/C has fixed the problem of premature wear.

also, will I need to take it to a dealer so they use their DRB scan tool to have the computer re-learn or timed (I donīt know what is the appropriate function for the DRB scan tool.


thank your help!

Last edited by dickyson; 10-21-2010 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Forgot to include a question
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post #933 of Old 10-22-2010, 01:49 PM
B_faster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickyson View Post
Hello everyone,

after reading this thread, I am getting psychologically prepared to check my distributor to see if it has any wear. So far it is rubi 2005 with 57,000 miles on it, has never thrown a code. The only problem is that I am currently in Mexico and oh boy....one thing you donīt want to do is mess with the dealer

My question is in case there is wear (making sure to mark the distributor and the motor and luckily when I put it back, there wonīt be any changes in timing), if I decide to just fix it my self, will I just need to replace that part if it is worn (P/N 53010624AC) or would you suggest to change anything else? Replacing the same part number I would imagine D/C has fixed the problem of premature wear.

also, will I need to take it to a dealer so they use their DRB scan tool to have the computer re-learn or timed (I donīt know what is the appropriate function for the DRB scan tool.


thank your help!
First, if you arent hearing any noises when its idling cold, I wouldnt mess with it, if I were returning stateside with it.

If you are not returning, then use the procedure on page 2 or 3 of this thread to mark the unit and then do the inspection. Do not turn the engine over once you have the unit removed.

I drove my Jeep this morning with the top off and I do notice what could only be a lack of sound that I had gotten used to before the dreaded screaming monkeys started. I suppose the normal noises had crept up on me while I wasnt paying attention. I only drive the Jeep occasionally and I am not as in tune with it as I should be.
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post #934 of Old 10-22-2010, 08:35 PM
puggles
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Thanks

Angie
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post #935 of Old 10-23-2010, 07:47 AM
OSUCOWBOYNTX
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Hello,

New guy here to the forum. After reading all 62 pages of this thread, I haven't started my Jeep in 2 weeks.

I do not feel confident in my mechanical ability to remove the cam. Well, I'm sure I can remove it with the excellent instructions located here but my concern is putting it back like it was and not having the timing get all jacked up.

The Jeep has not had any issues since I've had it. No codes, no noises etc. It currently has 25K miles and had 11K when I bought last year. It's not a daily driver but I have used it several times towing my PWC trailer to the lake the last 2 summers.

After reading the thread, I'm going to have the oil changed with synth oil. Is Mobil 1 20W50 OK?

Also, I am taking it to the dealer next week to have the ATF, front/rear Diffs, & transfer case fluids changed for routine maintenance.

Should I have the dealer check the cam while they are performing these other services? Does anyone know how much this might cost?

Sorry for the long post and if I asked questions already asked. I appreciate your expertise and replies.

Thanks,
Dave

Current: 2006 LJ Impact Orange
Previous:
2001 TJ Red because they didn't have orange!
1987 YJ Red because it was my first and I didn't care. :)
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post #936 of Old 10-23-2010, 11:42 AM
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSUCOWBOYNTX View Post
Is Mobil 1 20W50 OK?
20W-50 is too thick..the thickest you want to run in a engine with that few miles is 15W-40. But if your going to spend the the bucks on synthetic oil go with 5W-40 mobile one turbo diesel truck oil.

Its called diesel oil but its fully API SM certified for gas engines.


FOG
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post #937 of Old 10-23-2010, 12:09 PM
kgginslc
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Originally Posted by CB3 View Post
But the thing I like about Mobil One 5/40 is that it gives that same level of "best lubrication" without threatening newer model years of cats. [B]So that's why I prefer the Mobil One 5/40 for my 2006 4L.
Just to be clear - the Mobil One you are recommending is Mobil One ESP Formula M 5W-40, designed for diesel engines? I couldn't find any other 5w-40 on their site.
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post #938 of Old 10-23-2010, 05:44 PM
SkylinesSuck
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You guys keep mentioning diesel oil but they started reformulating that a couple of years back also. Rotella T no longer has the proper amount of ZDDP in it anymore for example. Valvoline VR-1 (non-synthetic) and Redline (synthetic) are both ones that come to mind that have around 1200ppm which is about right. There are others. Also, heavier weight oils will make the oil pump work harder to push it, and the oil pump being driven by the distributor/Cam angle sensor gear. If you don't need higher oil pressure, I'd run the factory recommended 10-30.

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post #939 of Old 10-24-2010, 05:43 AM
OSUCOWBOYNTX
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Thanks Fog for the information & your reply.
Dave

Current: 2006 LJ Impact Orange
Previous:
2001 TJ Red because they didn't have orange!
1987 YJ Red because it was my first and I didn't care. :)
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post #940 of Old 10-24-2010, 09:00 AM
Zeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OSUCOWBOYNTX View Post

After reading the thread, I'm going to have the oil changed with synth oil. Is Mobil 1 20W50 OK?

Also, I am taking it to the dealer next week to have the ATF, front/rear Diffs, & transfer case fluids changed for routine maintenance.

Should I have the dealer check the cam while they are performing these other services? Does anyone know how much this might cost?

Screw the dealership, and perform these services yourself! The money you'll save, and sense of accomplishment, will prove to be very satisfying!!!!

JEEP THE AR-15 OF THE AUTOMOTIVE WORLD
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post #941 of Old 10-24-2010, 11:57 AM
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylinesSuck View Post
You guys keep mentioning diesel oil but they started reformulating that a couple of years back also.
Yes Rotella and most of the other 15W-40 diesel oils have greatly reduced their ZDDP below the 1200-1300PPM level. However there are two over the counter available exceptions.

The first is Mobil One turbo diesel 5W-40 has 1200PPM of ZDDP at $7.00 a quart. Of the conventional 15W-40 diesel oils the only one that still does have the 1200-1300PPM of ZDDP is Chevron Delo LE. That Delo runs about $10-12 for a gallon.

In the summer I run the Delo 15W-40 and when it gets cool I run the Mobil 5W-40.



FOG
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post #942 of Old 10-24-2010, 03:59 PM
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I'd be very careful about putting any oil in that does not meet the specs Jeep has listed. I'd hate to have them void the warranty due to having the wrong oil in the Jeep. But, I have not hear of that happening yet. Many folks have had this problem with the poor oils that are sold now for a flat tappet engine. Mobil 1 High Mileage full syn oil is a ACEA 3 oil and meets all the criteria for Jeep IIRC. Of course you need to use the approved weight oil. I think a higher volume oil pump would help as well.

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Mods done: Hurst tee handle, cheap hand throttle, Rokmen Merc front bumper, Warn 9.5 TI winch with 3/8" X 100 worth of Viking yellow rope, DPG OME Ultimate with JKS ACOS up front, Kilby Gas Tank Skid, Kilby Steering Box Skid, Jeep Medic Belly Up, Skidrow Engine Skid, Rockcrusher Diff Skid in the rear, Warn Diff cover in front, , AR Outlaw II's and MTR 12:50/15's, Homemade rear Bumper, Cheap Cobra CB, Puma OBA, Sirius Radio, Locker Defeat, Rockhard cage, Rockmen short corners, homemade tire swing/tailgate hinge affair, Airlift air bags on the rear- - - - - - and more to come!
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post #943 of Old 10-24-2010, 05:06 PM
OSUCOWBOYNTX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeep View Post
Screw the dealership, and perform these services yourself! The money you'll save, and sense of accomplishment, will prove to be very satisfying!!!!
Yep! The ATF seems pretty straight forward. I'll have to do a little research on the diffs & transfer case fluids changes.

Thanks!

Current: 2006 LJ Impact Orange
Previous:
2001 TJ Red because they didn't have orange!
1987 YJ Red because it was my first and I didn't care. :)
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post #944 of Old 10-24-2010, 07:27 PM
SkylinesSuck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
Yes Rotella and most of the other 15W-40 diesel oils have greatly reduced their ZDDP below the 1200-1300PPM level. However there are two over the counter available exceptions.

The first is Mobil One turbo diesel 5W-40 has 1200PPM of ZDDP at $7.00 a quart. Of the conventional 15W-40 diesel oils the only one that still does have the 1200-1300PPM of ZDDP is Chevron Delo LE. That Delo runs about $10-12 for a gallon.

In the summer I run the Delo 15W-40 and when it gets cool I run the Mobil 5W-40.



FOG
Good to know, thnx

'98 Sahara w/AX15 & 4.6L stroker, 2.5" OME lift, 32" BFG M/T's, 8.8 w/Detroit Trutracs & 4.10's F&R
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post #945 of Old 10-31-2010, 02:47 PM
6Speed
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Just pulled mine and it has the wear on teh gear. It is an 06 model Rubicon with 61k miles. I have been getting rough idle every once in a while, and it feels like there is a dip in power for about a second or two as soon as I take off from stop lights. I also have a very quiet ticking sound.

Only problem now is I can't get my marks to line back up when re-installing the distributor. Any advice?
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