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Unread 10-08-2010, 08:53 PM   #886
SkylinesSuck
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Well that's dumb. :-(

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Unread 10-08-2010, 09:04 PM   #887
TheFog
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D/C and Jeep are getting really bad about "dumbed down" gauges to make the driver feel better.

A really good example is the fiasco with the Jeep Liberties with the diesel that were running pretty warm. Well Jeep said no problem we have a fix that will make the engine run cooler. Well what they actually did is flashed the computer and programmed the gauge to show cooler all the time.

I've decided to install a REAL oil pressure gauge on my LJ the only thing is I have yet to decide how I want to deal with the stock gauge. I've heard several say to install a tee fitting but there really isn't much room and that's really asking for a leak.

The computer wants to see the wire going to the sensor grounded out when you turn on the key and ungrounded after the engine starts to indicate pressure so just leaving it ungrounded is out.

My thoughts are you could A. install a push button hidden that you just hold when you start and let go once started to make the gauge happy. B. build a little cheap timer that gives your like 10 seconds after the key is turned on then it ungrounds the line.

Or go with a gauge that has a output on it like one of the high end auto meters and use that to control the dash gauge.


FOG
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Unread 10-09-2010, 05:10 AM   #888
jeffjeep1
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FOG,

Based on your in-depth efforts, I suspect we will be reading about your install of the upper end gage with built in contacts. I do appreciate your insights and commentary on this thread.


I have a Dickson recording pressure gage. Once I get it calibrated to NIST, it will be installed temporarily with a tee. It has a SD card to increase the data collection capacity, I think every 10 seconds will be enough. I want to see the oil pressure cold/hot idling and driving to compare it to HESCOs opinions and before the HESCO HV pump with oil tube is installed. Then again, after the pump is installed
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Unread 10-09-2010, 10:23 AM   #889
jkp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylinesSuck View Post
Well that's dumb. :-(

Take a look in a JK, no gauges except speedo, tach, fuel and temp. Got rid of the voltmeter and oil pressure alltogether. And the temp gauge is not marked in degrees, only C and H. So you know it will always be running right in the middle...
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Unread 10-11-2010, 06:46 AM   #890
B_faster
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I took the OPDA out this weekend. Mine siezed at the upper bushing which then sheared 3 teeth off the drive gear. I think I heard one monkey scream before the lights came on.

I pulled the pan and got all the parts out, inspected the cam shaft drive gear, it appears to be in decent shape, which surprised me.

I did manage to get the OPDA apart, the upper bushing is toast, there was some sort of grease just above it, but it was hard as a rock.

I now have the engine timed for TDC #1 and I am waiting on a new OPDA assembly. Has anyone re used the oil pan gasket? Mine appears to be reusable.

P.s. It took longer to get the TT and exhaust out the way than it took to do the job. I did get to clean the skid pan of it's excess rocks during the process.
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Unread 10-11-2010, 11:54 AM   #891
DstroyrOfWrldz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkp View Post
And the temp gauge is not marked in degrees, only C and H. So you know it will always be running right in the middle...
I don't know whether that's more ridiculous or how Ford put the temp gauge in my Bronco II where it actually moves up and down with temp like it should, but has no numbers.

I usually get worried if the needle reaches the "A" in "Normal". It's happened a few times on 105-110 summer days.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 01:42 PM   #892
B_faster
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Update

My new OPDA is supposed to be in on Wednesday. I think I am going to disassemble it to see if there is anything changed from the Rev E that failed.

I assume it will be just like the old one.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 03:55 PM   #893
solarpower
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I see exactly 1 thing in common with all the gears pictured....the wear is in a downward pattern on the opda gear, or towards the pin.

I saw a few posts about 30 pages back that had a small discussion about vertical movement in the shaft.

The way that gear spins it wants to push the shaft up and out of the engine, it's the way it's cut.The ring at the bottom of the OPDA and the top of the gear itself is what keeps that shaft from moving up.

I have a donor OPDA with little wear actually (waiting on actual mileage) that I am dissecting to establish a solution. I have the tools and knowledge along with the resources to improve this thing.

If anyone who has advanced mechanical ability, and maybe one of these laying around is interested in a serious discussion shoot me a PM.

I am not convinced that OIL is the actual problem or lack of lubrication but I do believe that it very well may contribute or be a part of the equation.

after going through this thread a few times I have grown weary of trying to weed out solid info based on facts and experiences.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 05:07 PM   #894
SkylinesSuck
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The two times I have destroyed a cam because of distributor gear wear, it popped the dizzy half way out of the block. I've had wear issues in addition that have stopped the engine from running, and replaced the dizzy, but eventually it decided to free itself out the hole and visit the underside of the hood.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 05:15 PM   #895
odinseye84
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IIRC, similar story with camaros, that first 98 model year, real gauge, from 99-02, dummy gauges. Too many customers coming in saying their engines were overheating, or the gauge keeps moving all the time.
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Unread 10-12-2010, 07:36 PM   #896
willydigger
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I got a PM about removal. Thought I would post it here for everyone.

Quote:
First off have a look at this thread if you haven't already.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wh...ml#post8096572

First I marked the engine next to the OPDA. A little mark with a sharpie is fine.

Next you mark the housing of the OPDA. This will make sure the housing goes back correctly. You can turn the housing and that will screw up the timing so it's important to mark it.

Finally mark the sensor wheel. This is connected to the gear that is wearing.

Here is the important part, the gear from the OPDA meshes with the camshaft gear inside the engine. As long as you do not run the engine (turn it over), the camshaft will not turn. The OPDA gear will be forced to go back exactly the way it came out. I repeat, under no circumstances do you ever run the engine with the OPDA out. When you put the OPDA back it it will be way off or right on the money. The gear mesh is not that fine. Think of a clock face, If your marks are at 2 the OPDA will reinstall at 12, 2, or 4. There is no 1:55 or 2:05. It will be right or wrong, there isn't a close.

This pic will help make it clear. (page 3 post 40)



Once the OPDA is out you can spin it to check for the shaft sticking. It should be smooth and not bind even a little. It shouldn't be loose, but smooth.

Check the gear for wear and check to see the oil contact. If you can get a look at the camshaft gear, try to take a pic. Odds are there will be a little shine on the camshaft gear edges. The area of concern is where the gear teeth meet. Chanced are everything is fine. If the OPDA is binding, order a new one.

The final step. You'll notice at the bottom of the OPDA is a slotted shaft. This will fit into the oil pump. If you happen to move the oil pump (twist it as you are removing the OPDA) the OPDA will not seat back properly. The marks will be off. If this happens (I've taken mine off 4 times, it happened once), take a flat head screw driver and turn the oil pump so the slot will fit so the marks match. If you run into trouble do not say "eh close enough", the marks need to match. You'll know if the oil pump needs to be turned if the marks don't line up with the OPDA fully inserted.

On a 1-10 (10 hard) this is a 3, only because the bolt is hard to get to.

If you tear the gasket, you can get another at the dealer or just add a little RTV. I didn't tear mine after removing it twice. You can run it without the gasket if you need to replace it.
Edit:
Here is a good pic of the camshaft gear and the oil pump slot. (Page 8 post 115)


Here is a new OPDA with gear and slotted shaft end.

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Last edited by willydigger; 10-12-2010 at 07:44 PM.. Reason: Added Pic
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Unread 10-12-2010, 07:39 PM   #897
willydigger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarpower View Post
I see exactly 1 thing in common with all the gears pictured....the wear is in a downward pattern on the opda gear, or towards the pin.

I saw a few posts about 30 pages back that had a small discussion about vertical movement in the shaft.

The way that gear spins it wants to push the shaft up and out of the engine, it's the way it's cut.The ring at the bottom of the OPDA and the top of the gear itself is what keeps that shaft from moving up.

I have a donor OPDA with little wear actually (waiting on actual mileage) that I am dissecting to establish a solution. I have the tools and knowledge along with the resources to improve this thing.

If anyone who has advanced mechanical ability, and maybe one of these laying around is interested in a serious discussion shoot me a PM.

I am not convinced that OIL is the actual problem or lack of lubrication but I do believe that it very well may contribute or be a part of the equation.

after going through this thread a few times I have grown weary of trying to weed out solid info based on facts and experiences.
When you do modify it, please take a ton of pics and post them. I'd love to see one apart, especially the bushings.
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Unread 10-13-2010, 10:51 AM   #898
bbusch
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Few pics of my 03 at 115K. Surprised the OPDG looked as good as it did however I know it's done because it's churping like a belt. I have the ticking and it's starting to lose power in the Mountains, recently she started throwing some codes for misfire in the 5th and 6th cylinders.


Sorry for the poor pic quality











Spoke with Hesco and I will be ordering a new cam, push rods, lifters, performance valve springs and retainers and will need to change to single grove valves (due to the .470 lift of the cam) all for a parts cost topping $800 and a labor charge of $940... also will be changing the oil pump to a high flow OP from Hesco for an additional $300 in labor and part (may do this myself).

Thing that bothers me the most about this is the fact I have spent about $1800 in oil over my rigs life in the motor alone (Mobil 1 first 80K, switched to Royal Purple at 80K to increase the zinc) and should have got 300K plus before having to drop this kind of coin... doesn't include all the other stuff I have had to change at this point like the header for example. DC
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Unread 10-13-2010, 12:01 PM   #899
Terrible2
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Well according to the dealership my Warranty is voided because my 4" Fabtech lift is causing the problem. Which I definitely believe is bull****, Chrysler seems to stand behind this and say that it is. Anyone have any suggestions? Im aware of the Magnuson moss act

Magnuson-Moss Act

but, I dont exactly get how I can get the dealership to prove it. The reason I know its not the lift is because I have 33,000 miles on the vehicle, only 4k with the lift, and the grinding was present before I installed the lift. Which I had it taken to the dealership to look at, but was only given a temporary fix.
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Unread 10-13-2010, 02:04 PM   #900
B_faster
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I picked up my new Rev E OPDA today. There is no differance in it from my previous Rev E which lasted 36,702 miles. The gear in mine had some wear, however it was the shaft locking up in the upper bushing that did mine in. For those that have heard noises, I got about a 2 minute warning before my gear broke. I wouldnt run it making noise.
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2006 , 4.0 , camshaft , replacement , tj , warranty , wrangler

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