Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 54 - JeepForum.com
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Rear Disc Brake Conversion Kit- TJ,YJ,XJSWAG 50 Cal Ammo Can Mount With M2A1 Can~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 09-27-2010, 09:23 PM   #796
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarpower View Post
Winner.

The total lack of lubrication on that top bushing wears it out fast. Once it's worn down that shaft is going to wobble (even more than the smaller style or even a distributer) and be amplified by having a large ring on top. That wobble in the top end of the shaft WILL translate to wobble at the other end of shaft.
I've seen several CPS gears that were worn pretty bad but the CPS housing bushing to shaft clearance as good as a brand new CPS unit. I think the bushing issue and the gear were are unrelated.

My vote is still the gear being cut wrong. I'll know in a couple thousand miles with my Napa Echlin gear.

Zeep I'm ordering a Hesco pump next week, still recovering from fall tuition payments


FOG

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Unread 09-27-2010, 10:23 PM   #797
tkki1230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarpower View Post
Winner.

The total lack of lubrication on that top bushing wears it out fast. Once it's worn down that shaft is going to wobble (even more than the smaller style or even a distributer) and be amplified by having a large ring on top. That wobble in the top end of the shaft WILL translate to wobble at the other end of shaft.

This explains why the wear on the gears is so uneven not only from one vehicle to another but from tooth to tooth on same gear. It also explains why the flats on the very end of shaft (that drive oil pump) have wear spots on the corners.

I told my good friend to purchase another assembly brand new and if we put a zerk in the top (already a place for one anyway) and grease it it should last a real long time.
When I look at the unit, I see the opposite. That top bushing doesn't have much load on it. Even without lubrication, my top bushing, and the area where the shaft is, was dirty, but not worn. This was at 65k miles. The top bushing won't get any load on it until that bottom bushing develops some play. The squeeling is coming from the crappy grease drying out, and not by the bushing/shaft seizing up. When you think about it, most of the time, that shaft is spinning at a relatively slow speed-half of what's at the Crankshaft. At cruising speeds, the shaft is only spinning at 1000-1250 rpms. That's not enough centrifugal force to wear out that top bushing.
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Unread 09-27-2010, 10:48 PM   #798
JrJmisn
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still no indication of where to get an aftermarket assembly of the oil pump drive/cam position sensor?

I feel like this thread is a lot of good information about everyones problem and possibilities...but not a whole lot of "i fixed it" solutions. Did anyone have a bad unit and replace it and fix the issue? Am I the only one with the ticking on the side of the housing issue that seems to be from the shaft being out of round or having too much play?
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Unread 09-28-2010, 06:36 AM   #799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrJmisn View Post
still no indication of where to get an aftermarket assembly of the oil pump drive/cam position sensor?

I feel like this thread is a lot of good information about everyones problem and possibilities...but not a whole lot of "i fixed it" solutions. Did anyone have a bad unit and replace it and fix the issue? Am I the only one with the ticking on the side of the housing issue that seems to be from the shaft being out of round or having too much play?
There no known 'aftermarket' unit available and the "I fixed it" won't be known until people put substantial mileage on the replacements.
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Unread 09-28-2010, 10:33 AM   #800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JrJmisn View Post
still no indication of where to get an aftermarket assembly of the oil pump drive/cam position sensor?
The question was asked to Hesco who makes allot of aftermarket 4.0 parts. Their answer was that the 05-06 CPS assembly was a patented part and that making a "improved version" would run a muck with patent law.

FOG
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Unread 09-28-2010, 11:41 AM   #801
JrJmisn
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ok..well thats good info and makes sense.
I need to replace the assembly for sure. It is either chewed up at the gear below, which I havent pulled to check yet, or the shaft is bent causing the ticking on the housing. It seems I am the only one with a ticking and not failures and codes and engine trouble out of the assembly so far.

So dealership is the way to go huh? Ill call and get one on order
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Unread 09-28-2010, 01:36 PM   #802
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So after reading this thread I decided to check mine. One of the screws came off just fine but the other completely stripped out. I tried 4 dealerships, parts stores and junk yard to find the screw. The dealership told me they could sell me the whole unit for $140 but all I need is the screw. Does anyone know wher I can get one? If the replacement cap comes with the screws? The best offer I had so far was to buy the replacement black cap but I had to pay in advance and they didn't know if the screws came with it. Anyone have any ideas? I would appreciate any help.


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Unread 09-28-2010, 04:13 PM   #803
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My buddy just made me aware of this issue as one of his buddies in his Jeep club had the issue on his 05 Rubicon. I got about 15 pages into this thread, but it is so long so I figured I would keep reading and would throw my two cents in from what I've done so far. I just bought my Rubicon this past May and it was built in April 2005. The engine build date is April, 6th 2005. My Jeep is about to hit 73,000 miles so lucky me I'm pretty much screwed since I can't pull the warrenty card on Chrysler. The good news is my Jeep is fine as far as I know it. Im on the fence if I want to pull my CPS to find if the gear is worn or if I should leave it since its running fine. I don't really want to risk turning it into a issue since Ive come to the conclusion from your posts that there really is not pernament fix.

I contacted my nearest Jeep dealership to see if they could find in the system if my Jeep has ever been repaired for this which we have found it has not. I also wanted to see what they recommended o do to take preventative measures and to get a feel for if they think Chrysler will cover it if it does become an issue later on for me. The lady I spoke with was very informative as she deals with all the dealerships warrenty claims and she was aware of the problem. She said if I pull the sensor myself Chrysler will most likely not cover it since Im not a certified technichian. Obviously they would be able to tell if I touched it because I would have to mark it.

Just as an FYI she also said Chrysler did recall some jeeps but only the ones that had an S in the vin number. All they ask for is the last 8 digits and if the second letter is an S it will be replaced by Chrysler. Mine had a P so mine was not part of the recall. So if your vin is xSxxxxxx for the last 8 digits your case will be much easier to get it covered.

She also gave me the Chrysler customer service number to call and have them open a Case# up just to document my concern of the issue. This at least gets the process going if my Jeep does have the issue and my make the claim process easier for me to have Chrysler help with the repair if the issue occurs. They take it by a case by case basis and decide how much they would cover if anything. So if your Jeep doesn't have an issue and its an 05 or 06 I would at least do this in your defence. Also maybe the more who do it, it might get Chrysler's attention that they need to investigate this further. I only foresee the issue becoming more common as we all rack up the milage on them.

Im just debating if I should check the gear myself, pay for the dealership to check it so its documented by a certified technichian, or wait till it becomes an issue.

Either way I figured Im screwed since all of you say the part is on backorder for an unknown amount of time. I leaning towards just paying attention to the CPS sound and vibration. If I feel or hear it getting bad I will probably take it in, but I feel I shouldn't tamper with it and risk turning it into an issue.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 12:23 AM   #804
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Crunchy,

I also had a case manager signed to me, basically what she told me was that she cant do anything. literally I told her I have the TSB, its symptons and that the dealership wants to charge me $450 to diagnose the clutch even though that is not what I want. She told me she cant make the dealership do anything, anyone have any suggestions? Im on an island here so it blows.

Chrysler is freaking useless to me right now, they cant tell the dealership to look at a part even though my Jeep is under the recall VIN for E05
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Unread 09-29-2010, 06:46 AM   #805
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Just buy the part from the dealer. My dealer said it was in the $170 range. If I had it to do over again I would have bought it outright and left the dealer out of it. They kept the bad one so I don't have anything to take apart. I think you can get them online for just over $100. There are plenty of helpful tips in the discussion.

Also I have the S Vin. The dealer was no extra help. I had to push them to install the replacement which is only the REV-E. Now I have to go back and get the gasket they left off. I will install that myself. They really are incompetent.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 10:36 AM   #806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crunchy View Post
Just as an FYI she also said Chrysler did recall some jeeps but only the ones that had an S in the vin number. All they ask for is the last 8 digits and if the second letter is an S it will be replaced by Chrysler. Mine had a P so mine was not part of the recall. So if your vin is xSxxxxxx for the last 8 digits your case will be much easier to get it covered.
What is the difference in the P and the S in the VIN? I have a P.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Crunchy View Post
Im just debating if I should check the gear myself, pay for the dealership to check it so its documented by a certified technichian, or wait till it becomes an issue.
How do you know you will have a problem in the future? I would expect all do not have the problem and may not ever experience the part failure. TIA!
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Unread 09-29-2010, 03:05 PM   #807
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Sorry I didn't read the thread. But does someone have the TSB number that i can give to the Chrysler center to look at this. I have a 2005 LJ.
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...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
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Unread 09-29-2010, 03:11 PM   #808
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Fargo, I hate to disappoint but the TSB won't help you with Chrysler. I called them with my case and gave them the TSB and the higher up explained that she has never heard of the TSB before and that she hasn't heard of any issues going on with the OPDG. The TSB I believe is E 05.
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Unread 09-29-2010, 03:21 PM   #809
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Originally Posted by 2006_Sport View Post
Fargo, I hate to disappoint but the TSB won't help you with Chrysler. I called them with my case and gave them the TSB and the higher up explained that she has never heard of the TSB before and that she hasn't heard of any issues going on with the OPDG. The TSB I believe is E 05.
So how do you get this thing checked out. I'm still under warranty.
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...there's very little that is more permanent than a temporary solution
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Originally Posted by Oman Jeep
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Unread 09-29-2010, 03:23 PM   #810
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If it's still under warranty then you should be okay. I wasn't so I'm SOL unless I replace it myself. The service center at the dealer will probably know about the issue but as far as the higher ups at Chrysler...they "Claim" to know nothing of the subject.
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2006 , 4.0 , camshaft , replacement , tj , warranty , wrangler
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