Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 53 - JeepForum.com
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post #781 of 1818 Old 09-25-2010, 09:56 PM
Hella
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Doesnt look normal to me neither, but I figured it was maybe just normal wear for the motor being seven years old. Plus I just had doubts because my motor is not in the build date for this specific problem, but should I call chrysler on monday? I have a feeling they are going to tell me its out of the build date.


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post #782 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 10:01 AM
TheFog
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This is a view from the bottom of the engine of the camshaft/CPS gear mesh up. You can use the thickness of the crankshaft gear for reference.



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post #783 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
This is a view from the bottom of the engine of the camshaft/CPS gear mesh up. You can use the thickness of the crankshaft gear for reference.
Don't you mean "camshaft gear"?...
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post #784 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 04:25 PM
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Hey knuckelhead, should I call regarding my cam sensor even though its not in the build date?? Or is chrysler just guessing as to what vehicles it affects and not totally sure about all the years?

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post #785 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 05:18 PM
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ok guys...i have had a loud ticking for a while now coming from the cam sensor/oil pump drive. I took off the plastic cap and can see the play in the shaft spinning that is causing the ticking. The round plate with holes in it at the top of the shaft seems to be hitting the housing causing the noise. I can move the mechanism both rotationally about 1/8 inch and also back and forth a little bit. Havent pulled it yet to see the gear.

I want to replace the whole mechanism. Had anyone found an aftermarket part by now? or anyone had good experience from the dealer selling the oil pump drive/cam sensor mechanism?

I am a november 04 build TJ within the problem time. I dont have the mechanical symptoms at all....just the ticking that I can see it causing. I hear a lot about the problem...but not a lot about the solution. I am not one of the guys on this thread with SUPER low miles on my 05 that want to try to get a free part, I just want a solution.
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post #786 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Hella View Post
Or is chrysler just guessing as to what vehicles it affects and not totally sure about all the years?
I think so.
Good luck...
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post #787 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 07:07 PM
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Little update on my situation. I was correct in assuming this part was my issue but as per my usual luck, my issue had a little "twist" than others that have had it happen to them. I did have the signs of wear as everyone else but my gear actually broke off. It appears it cracked at the section where the pin holds it on the rod. and just fell off. My mechanic couldnt tell what happen first be it the gear cracking or the pin falling out causing it to crack and fall off. She is now back on the road but I am still pretty dam unhappy with the situation esp since odds are it will happen again (well at least the wearing). unfortunately my gf has my camera but I will post up pics as soon as I get it back.
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post #788 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Knuckelhead View Post
Don't you mean "camshaft gear"?...
Every bodies a critic

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post #789 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jp90Talon View Post
Little update on my situation. I was correct in assuming this part was my issue but as per my usual luck, my issue had a little "twist" than others that have had it happen to them. I did have the signs of wear as everyone else but my gear actually broke off. It appears it cracked at the section where the pin holds it on the rod. and just fell off. My mechanic couldnt tell what happen first be it the gear cracking or the pin falling out causing it to crack and fall off. She is now back on the road but I am still pretty dam unhappy with the situation esp since odds are it will happen again (well at least the wearing). unfortunately my gf has my camera but I will post up pics as soon as I get it back.
that is the second OPDA gear that I am aware of that has failed in exactly the same way

makes me think that something is creating abnormal strain on the gear, possibly the bearings in the unit seizing or lacking lube

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post #790 of 1818 Old 09-26-2010, 09:08 PM
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that is the second OPDA gear that I am aware of that has failed in exactly the same way

makes me think that something is creating abnormal strain on the gear, possibly the bearings in the unit seizing or lacking lube
I spent a bit of money bringing a brand new Rev E unit to a machinist for disassembly...

Bottom bushing requires oil to defy gravity and flow upward through 4 very small channels, which would work if it was set in some kind of pressurized cavity, however it isn't.

There is a seal in between bushings, so even if oil managed to get into the bottom bushing, it would never make it to the top.

Top bushing has zero chance of lubrication. There is a galley where lubrication is placed from the factory, but the Rev E unit doesn't have a pathway to the inside of the bushing. My machinist removed the top bushing drilled a hole in it that lined up with the galley, and installed a zerk.


----------------------------------------------

Ultimately this is what I would like to see:

1.) A seal at the end of the bottom bushing where the gear attaches.

2.) A seal at the top of the top bushing where the pickup wheel is.

3.) Middle seal removed.

4.) Oil passages at around the bottom bushing sealed.

5.) Zerk with hole in top bushing as described above.

This would create a completely sealed system that is self lubricated. The next problem of course is making sure the cam/OPDA gears are properly lubricated themselves, enter Hesco's high volume oil pump with axillary lubrication tube.

Last edited by speed_phreak; 09-26-2010 at 09:23 PM.
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post #791 of 1818 Old 09-27-2010, 03:09 PM
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My lj was built 5/06, engine 4/11/06, 42985 miles. This is what I found today. There is no noise, no side to side play, just able to turn about an 1/8 inch back and forth. I figure thats just slop between the gears. What do you think? My jeep is outside the time line of the service bulletin. I just put a new distrubor in my 93XJ with 190,000 mile and I don't remeber this much wear on it's gear. Not that I lloked that close at it. You think I could just put on a new gear and be alright? I looked at the cam gear and didn't an kind of wear to be alarmed about on it.


06 LJ rubi RE 4 1/2 sf, MT 35/12.50/15 on soft 8s, Kilby tummy tuck and engine skid, Wilderness frt and rear bumpers, Warn M8000, Cobra 75 cb, Genright sport cage, Poison Spyder Armor, Gen Right front fenders.
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post #792 of 1818 Old 09-27-2010, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed_phreak View Post
I spent a bit of money bringing a brand new Rev E unit to a machinist for disassembly...

Bottom bushing requires oil to defy gravity and flow upward through 4 very small channels, which would work if it was set in some kind of pressurized cavity, however it isn't.

There is a seal in between bushings, so even if oil managed to get into the bottom bushing, it would never make it to the top.

Top bushing has zero chance of lubrication. There is a galley where lubrication is placed from the factory, but the Rev E unit doesn't have a pathway to the inside of the bushing. My machinist removed the top bushing drilled a hole in it that lined up with the galley, and installed a zerk.


----------------------------------------------

Ultimately this is what I would like to see:

1.) A seal at the end of the bottom bushing where the gear attaches.

2.) A seal at the top of the top bushing where the pickup wheel is.

3.) Middle seal removed.

4.) Oil passages at around the bottom bushing sealed.

5.) Zerk with hole in top bushing as described above.

This would create a completely sealed system that is self lubricated. The next problem of course is making sure the cam/OPDA gears are properly lubricated themselves, enter Hesco's high volume oil pump with axillary lubrication tube.
Do you have any pics of the guts? What about removing the OPDA shaft and cutting a groove like previous years?
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post #793 of 1818 Old 09-27-2010, 05:57 PM
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FOG, are you installing a Hesco oil pump on yours?

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post #794 of 1818 Old 09-27-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed_phreak View Post
I spent a bit of money bringing a brand new Rev E unit to a machinist for disassembly...

Bottom bushing requires oil to defy gravity and flow upward through 4 very small channels, which would work if it was set in some kind of pressurized cavity, however it isn't.

There is a seal in between bushings, so even if oil managed to get into the bottom bushing, it would never make it to the top.

Top bushing has zero chance of lubrication. There is a galley where lubrication is placed from the factory, but the Rev E unit doesn't have a pathway to the inside of the bushing. My machinist removed the top bushing drilled a hole in it that lined up with the galley, and installed a zerk.

Winner.

The total lack of lubrication on that top bushing wears it out fast. Once it's worn down that shaft is going to wobble (even more than the smaller style or even a distributer) and be amplified by having a large ring on top. That wobble in the top end of the shaft WILL translate to wobble at the other end of shaft.

This explains why the wear on the gears is so uneven not only from one vehicle to another but from tooth to tooth on same gear. It also explains why the flats on the very end of shaft (that drive oil pump) have wear spots on the corners.

I told my good friend to purchase another assembly brand new and if we put a zerk in the top (already a place for one anyway) and grease it it should last a real long time.

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post #795 of 1818 Old 09-27-2010, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by solarpower View Post
Winner.

The total lack of lubrication on that top bushing wears it out fast. Once it's worn down that shaft is going to wobble (even more than the smaller style or even a distributer) and be amplified by having a large ring on top. That wobble in the top end of the shaft WILL translate to wobble at the other end of shaft.

This explains why the wear on the gears is so uneven not only from one vehicle to another but from tooth to tooth on same gear. It also explains why the flats on the very end of shaft (that drive oil pump) have wear spots on the corners.

I told my good friend to purchase another assembly brand new and if we put a zerk in the top (already a place for one anyway) and grease it it should last a real long time.
That is good advice. I think the top bushing still needs to be removed by a machinist though, so that a hole can be drilled in the bushing. I suppose a hole could also be carefully drilled with the shaft removed and the bushing still in place.

We have all seen what doing nothing produces...
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