Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 49 - JeepForum.com

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post #721 of 1818 Old 09-04-2010, 10:08 PM
RubiOR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkki1230 View Post
Same here.
Ditto.

Has anyone installed a replacement unit yet? I remember instructions earlier in this thread about marking the position of the assembly before removal so that it goes back in with the correct orientation. For a new unit, would we just rotate the engine until the alignment hole is in position? Then out with the old and in with the new? I've read through the Ignition Control doc here (Jeep Service Manuals) but I'm still not clear.


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Their huge yellow spaceships hung in the air in exactly the same way that bricks don't. -- Douglas Adams, Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy
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post #722 of 1818 Old 09-04-2010, 10:41 PM
Sweeney
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Just turn the engine until the first cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke then drop in the new unit and you're done as long as the new OPDA has the tone wheel aligned/pinned to the housing.
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post #723 of 1818 Old 09-05-2010, 01:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiOR View Post
Ditto.

Has anyone installed a replacement unit yet? I remember instructions earlier in this thread about marking the position of the assembly before removal so that it goes back in with the correct orientation. For a new unit, would we just rotate the engine until the alignment hole is in position? Then out with the old and in with the new? I've read through the Ignition Control doc here (Jeep Service Manuals) but I'm still not clear.
Don't use the alignment holes for position. Get the alignment holes close, and then look at your Balancer for TDC. It is a little tick mark on the inside edge of the Hub. Line up the mark, and then drop in the new unit. It won't drop in all the way unless the shaft is in the Oil pump slot. Don't forget to remove the alignment pin in the new unit.
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post #724 of 1818 Old 09-05-2010, 04:42 PM
RubiOR
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Hrm... looking at the picture in post 528 (here)... The only way I can see the pointer is from under the Jeep but the angle at which I'm looking at it is so twisted I don't see how I can manage to line up anything. From the top there's too much stuff in the way to see the pointer at all. I did find a bit of a nick in the balancer that I'm guessing is the alignment mark.

What's wrong with turning the crank until the old one's alignment hole is in position, then pulling it & dropping in the new? I'm not doubting your advice, I'm wondering what I'm missing.

'06 Solar Yellow Rubicon Unlimited -- The Big Yellow Brick
Their huge yellow spaceships hung in the air in exactly the same way that bricks don't. -- Douglas Adams, Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy
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post #725 of 1818 Old 09-05-2010, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by RubiOR View Post
Hrm... looking at the picture in post 528 (here)... The only way I can see the pointer is from under the Jeep but the angle at which I'm looking at it is so twisted I don't see how I can manage to line up anything. From the top there's too much stuff in the way to see the pointer at all. I did find a bit of a nick in the balancer that I'm guessing is the alignment mark.

What's wrong with turning the crank until the old one's alignment hole is in position, then pulling it & dropping in the new? I'm not doubting your advice, I'm wondering what I'm missing.

Because of the gear mesh wear, your unit is probably not in sync with the Crankshaft anymore. I know that my tone wheel had at least 1/16 of slop. Why not try to start from zero?

The proper way is to get it close so you can fire up the engine, and then use a Scan tool or take it to the Dealer/Servicing to do the sync. I'm not sure where I read this, but someone said that you can be off by +/- 11 degrees before the engine starts to throw codes.
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post #726 of 1818 Old 09-05-2010, 05:24 PM
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Ah. So if I turn the crank until the alignment hole is in position I may not be at TDC due to the gear mesh wear. If my mental image is correct, it would actually be a bit past TDC due to the wear. That makes sense, thanks for your patience!

Now I just have to find a gasket & figure out how to get that nick lined up with the alignment mark. I may call my friends a the local offroad shop and see if they have a scan tool too. I don't distrust the local dealership but I trust the offroad shop somewhat more...

FWIW, though I haven't removed the old unit yet, as best as I can see the sticker it is a Rev E part (same as the new unit). I bought the Jeep a couple of years ago with 16k on the clock but I don't know the maintenance history of the PO.

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Their huge yellow spaceships hung in the air in exactly the same way that bricks don't. -- Douglas Adams, Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy
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post #727 of 1818 Old 09-05-2010, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiOR View Post
Ah. So if I turn the crank until the alignment hole is in position I may not be at TDC due to the gear mesh wear. If my mental image is correct, it would actually be a bit past TDC due to the wear. That makes sense, thanks for your patience!

Now I just have to find a gasket & figure out how to get that nick lined up with the alignment mark. I may call my friends a the local offroad shop and see if they have a scan tool too. I don't distrust the local dealership but I trust the offroad shop somewhat more...

FWIW, though I haven't removed the old unit yet, as best as I can see the sticker it is a Rev E part (same as the new unit). I bought the Jeep a couple of years ago with 16k on the clock but I don't know the maintenance history of the PO.
If you are careful when you remove the unit, you'll find that the old gasket will be stuck underneath the unit flange. You can scrape it off with a razor, and use it again.
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post #728 of 1818 Old 09-08-2010, 10:21 PM
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So... did anyone ever find a good aftermarket replacement?

Also to clarify, is it just the camshaft and possibly the gears if this has been going on too long?
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post #729 of 1818 Old 09-09-2010, 08:17 AM
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I just had my cps replaced last week, cam gear supposedly ok. Cross my fingers I guess

05x 4.0 6sp 30/35, aussie front, 3.73's, r/c 4"x lift, adv adptr sye, shifter bracket, tw cv ds, 33 t/c skid, 33x12.5 dunlop mud rovers on steelies, psc sport cage/rockers, warn fr bump/steer and 30 diff skid, sirius,cb, hand throttle 1"bl/mml 265/16's pepboys at's on orig moabs for street. Lowrance H20c for gps
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post #730 of 1818 Old 09-12-2010, 01:53 PM
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Well I I have a funny feeling that my Jeep may be one of the jeeps that needed this recall done. Was out driving this weekend and suddenly CEL's and warning buzzers galore! Look down and I dont have any oil pressure at all. Turned it off right away and checked the oil (full no leaks) and the sensor still attached. Will be calling the dealership tomorrow. I am the 3rd owner so no warrenty at all so I really hope that this falls under the safety recall.
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post #731 of 1818 Old 09-12-2010, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jp90Talon View Post
Well I I have a funny feeling that my Jeep may be one of the jeeps that needed this recall done. Was out driving this weekend and suddenly CEL's and warning buzzers galore! Look down and I dont have any oil pressure at all. Turned it off right away and checked the oil (full no leaks) and the sensor still attached. Will be calling the dealership tomorrow. I am the 3rd owner so no warrenty at all so I really hope that this falls under the safety recall.
How any miles on it??
Keep us updated.

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post #732 of 1818 Old 09-12-2010, 02:38 PM
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How any miles on it??
Keep us updated.
Just over 50k....
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post #733 of 1818 Old 09-12-2010, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Jp90Talon View Post
I really hope that this falls under the safety recall.
It never was a "safety recall" or any type of recall for that matter. It was a technical service bulletin/TSB issue by D/C.

Some people are having luck with getting D/C to warranty it out but most are not. What makes the biggest difference is the quality of the dealership. If the dealer does it under D/C TSB they get paid a labor allowance that is far less than what they would charge you. So its in their best interest not to help you one bit with D/C in trying to get it covered.

That's why the dealer will make allot of difference in the outcome.


On a unrelated topic I put a new cam gear on my REV-E unit and switched to Mobil 1 0W-40 which is ACEA A3/B3 rated. Going to run it for a few thousand miles and pull it again and see how its doing with the new oil. One thing I immediately noticed with the 0W-40 is the engine sounds allot smoother while warming up.


FOG
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post #734 of 1818 Old 09-12-2010, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TheFog View Post
On a unrelated topic I put a new cam gear on my REV-E unit and switched to Mobil 1 0W-40 which is ACEA A3/B3 rated. Going to run it for a few thousand miles and pull it again and see how its doing with the new oil. One thing I immediately noticed with the 0W-40 is the engine sounds allot smoother while warming up.


FOG
what grade of oil WAS you using?

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post #735 of 1818 Old 09-12-2010, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiOR View Post
Ditto.

Has anyone installed a replacement unit yet? I remember instructions earlier in this thread about marking the position of the assembly before removal so that it goes back in with the correct orientation. For a new unit, would we just rotate the engine until the alignment hole is in position? Then out with the old and in with the new? I've read through the Ignition Control doc here (Jeep Service Manuals) but I'm still not clear.
Here's my writeup on replacing the unit (already linked twice in this thread), just orient the new unit to the same position as the old, make sure you have a gasket on the new one going in:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/wh...-angry-876488/

Startes on page 2 or 3.
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