Chrysler is paying to install a new cam (2005/2006 owners should read this) - Page 46 - JeepForum.com
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:45 AM   #676
Terrible2
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so aside from the oils, what has anyone done with aftermarket parts?

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Unread 09-01-2010, 03:30 AM   #677
bonza
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in my area of the world Castrol wont publish zddp levels in their TDS anymore.
I queried the Castrol rep who supplies oil to my business and he was coy about it and said they arent aloud to disclose it
however he gave me a lab report for RX super 10w-40 diesel oil and it has a zddp of about 1200. and is suitable for mixed fleet being SL rated as well as diesel rated. thats what I will be using in the future. had been using a Havoline 10w-30 SL and havent any wear problems on the gear, but apparently that oil will be SM in the near future here
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Unread 09-01-2010, 08:01 AM   #678
Sweeney
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The comment by Hesco about Mobil 1 being "too slippery" makes zero sense. The problem with frictional wear is a lack of 'slipperyness'...

I made an observation. They guy I sold my '98 TJ too allowed me to pull the distributor to examine the gear. Though it obviously looks used it has very little wear. It also has 185K miles on it and it has gotten Mobil 1 10w30 at 10K mile intervals with filter changes every 5K miles the entire time.

I currently run Mobil 1 10w30 HM in my LJ Rubicon.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 08:38 AM   #679
Peterpsc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrible2 View Post
so aside from the oils, what has anyone done with aftermarket parts?
I added the Hesco pump and ZDDP additive to Royal Purple 10-40.

Hesco Inc. - High Performance Engine Service

Last edited by Peterpsc; 09-01-2010 at 08:54 AM..
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Unread 09-01-2010, 09:10 AM   #680
DstroyrOfWrldz
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I examined AutoZone's entire oil shelf yesterday looking for ACEA A3 certifications.

I found no conventional oils meeting ACEA A3.
Valvoline DuraBlend and Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic Blend were the only blends that met it.
Maxlife specs appear to have in the range of 800ppm Zinc/phosphorous.
http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/Maxlife.pdf

Here's a nifty link with what appears to be Mobil1's entire product line listing their certifications for each along with nominal zinc and phosphorous levels!
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
Note that even the ACEA A3 oils still have zinc and phosphorous 1100ppm and below, while the motorcycle and racing oils have the highest (racing 0W30 and 0W50 say not recommended for street use)

15W50 looks interesting, as it has a high zinc/phosphorous concentration and it's recommended for high temp/high shear and specifically mentions flat tappets.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 09:39 AM   #681
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http://hesco.us/shop.asp?action=showpic&id=226889&header=false

Here's a picture of the Hesco pump showing the oiling tube spray device.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 10:02 AM   #682
DstroyrOfWrldz
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that's pretty cool...I may need to look into the install complexity of the oil pump...can you do that without pulling the motor? most vehicles I've had put a crossmember too close to the pan to get it off without lifting the motor out.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 10:30 AM   #683
RubiOR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DstroyrOfWrldz View Post
that's pretty cool...I may need to look into the install complexity of the oil pump...can you do that without pulling the motor? most vehicles I've had put a crossmember too close to the pan to get it off without lifting the motor out.
I would like to know this also. I need to pull the pan & replace the rear main seal one of these days. Might as well do the pump while I'm up to my elbows...
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Unread 09-01-2010, 10:33 AM   #684
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Well, I went out and checked my '06 LJ (1/8/06 Build Date). It has 37k currently. I am the second owner - the dealer did the work on it up until 34k. They changed the oil with Mopar 5w-30!?! every 3k for those 34k. I'm now running Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-30 (ACEA A3 rating). The pattern is even on all teeth. There appears to be very little wear on the cam gear although I can't seem to get a decent pic of it. Thoughts?
img_5642_web.jpg   img_5644_web.jpg   img_5647_web.jpg  
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Unread 09-01-2010, 10:53 AM   #685
Peterpsc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DstroyrOfWrldz View Post
that's pretty cool...I may need to look into the install complexity of the oil pump...can you do that without pulling the motor? most vehicles I've had put a crossmember too close to the pan to get it off without lifting the motor out.
No need to pull the motor just the oil pan.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 11:52 AM   #686
DstroyrOfWrldz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeredit View Post
Well, I went out and checked my '06 LJ (1/8/06 Build Date). It has 37k currently. I am the second owner - the dealer did the work on it up until 34k. They changed the oil with Mopar 5w-30!?! every 3k for those 34k. I'm now running Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-30 (ACEA A3 rating). The pattern is even on all teeth. There appears to be very little wear on the cam gear although I can't seem to get a decent pic of it. Thoughts?
yours looks very similar to mine - we appear to have caught it early enough that damage to the cam gear is likely very minimal. The marks on the cam gear are present, but they don't appear to have any significant "depth", meaning there hasn't been a lot of metal removed from the tooth face.

My plan of action is:

1. replace my gear with the one from pre-04 models (just arrived from Crown Auto)
2. use a good quality oil. I've currently got Castrol GTX 10W30 in it but will likely be switching. Haven't chosen which one just yet since I'm just now beginning to do that research. Maybe Valvoline MaxLife synth blend or Mobil1 High Mileage, 10W40 for either one, or something like Delo with a ZDDP level closer to 1200 depending on what I learn.
3. Monitor wear on new gear. If wear begins to show on the replacement gear I might start looking at this replacement oil pump.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 12:11 PM   #687
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Dstroyr,

Are you not going to add a zerk for the upper bushing? The folks over on the Rubicon forum swear that the upper bushing is seizing up and causing the gear wear. Just wondering.....I got my new OPDA from the stealership, and will pull my old one and take it to the machine shop. I will let those guys advise me on what they think are the best options.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 02:12 PM   #688
tkki1230
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Originally Posted by gunner87 View Post
Dstroyr,

Are you not going to add a zerk for the upper bushing? The folks over on the Rubicon forum swear that the upper bushing is seizing up and causing the gear wear. Just wondering.....I got my new OPDA from the stealership, and will pull my old one and take it to the machine shop. I will let those guys advise me on what they think are the best options.
I don't think the problem is with the upper bushing. If you really look at the unit, all of the load is on the bottom bushing. That is where all the force is generated. I think that once that bushing wears, then tolerences get sloppy, and the gears get a little misaligned. There is a major difference between the 05-06 units and the earlier models. The older units have a groove in the shaft that forces oil upwards into the lower bushing. I purchased 3 different older units from ebay, all of them with fairly high mileage counts. They all have zero wear on the gear, and more importantly, zero wear on the shaft.

My 06 shaft is wasted in the area where it contacts the lower bushing, and it only has 60k miles. I'm pretty sure that the lower bushing area was putting significant resistance against the camshaft gear/oil pump because the lubrication was insufficient. The upper bushing area was dirty with caked up grease, but it did not add any significant resistance to the shaft. All it did was make a lot of noise (screaming monkeys). See post #650 for pics.
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Unread 09-01-2010, 02:35 PM   #689
TheFog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeredit View Post
Well, I went out and checked my '06 LJ (1/8/06 Build Date). It has 37k currently. I am the second owner - the dealer did the work on it up until 34k. They changed the oil with Mopar 5w-30!?! every 3k for those 34k. I'm now running Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w-30 (ACEA A3 rating). The pattern is even on all teeth. There appears to be very little wear on the cam gear although I can't seem to get a decent pic of it. Thoughts?
The problem is your gear and OPDA unit are NOT THE ORIGNAL units that were on the Jeep when it was built. None of 05 or 06 units had anything later than a REV-D unit when built. My 06 with a later build date than yours came with a REV-D unit.

In the last picture you show the label on your OPDA which states it as a REV-E with means its been replaced because the previous one failed.

Also Tikki don't think the top bushing isn't a problem. There area good amount of documented cases where the upper bushing starts making the howler monkey sound and then locks up to the point where it causes the OPDA assembly to spin around and rip the wires loose.


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Unread 09-01-2010, 03:14 PM   #690
DstroyrOfWrldz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner87 View Post
Dstroyr,

Are you not going to add a zerk for the upper bushing? The folks over on the Rubicon forum swear that the upper bushing is seizing up and causing the gear wear. Just wondering.....I got my new OPDA from the stealership, and will pull my old one and take it to the machine shop. I will let those guys advise me on what they think are the best options.
Not immediately, but I'll be monitoring how well the shaft rotates every time I pull it out to check the gear. Right now it turns so freely it feels like it's on fresh roller bearings and there's no side play in it so there's no signs of a problem with the bushings so far. It's a Rev C.

Next time I have it out I may re-evaluated, I'm also a little thrown by the conflicting reports about how some seem to have an open passage to the bushing while others have nowhere for the grease to go.
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